Ithaka official

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imeothanasis

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all threads have a very small up and down movement buddy when they are not totally screwed each other. Its the nature of all threads on every construction:)
So i just rebuilt my Ithaka and the mouthpiece is super loose as I thread it on the ceramic housing :(. It really juggles around until I put on the top 2 pieces then its just vertical play i haven't ever dropped it or anything the only thing I've done different is cleaned everything with a toothbrush last weekend ugh so no one else has this issue?? I mean its not a Hugh deal it doesn't affect the performance at all I just don't understand why it started doing this. I have a mouthpiece for drip tips coming from COV I suppose I'll just have to try that one on when it comes in and see if I have the same issue if I don't its the mouthpiece if not then its the housing either one is a bummer since my Ithaka is fairly new and I'm guessing this isn't normal since I've not seen anyone else post about it :(


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Shaketuga

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all threads have a very small up and down movement buddy when they are not totally screwed each other. Its the nature of all threads on every construction:)

I got ya I just hadn't noticed it before so I was getting stressed out thinking I did something to hurt my Ithaka llal :D


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patsfan1130

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I'm having leaking issues from the 510 connection upon refilling my Ithaka. I run 3mm silica dual coil with auto feed 1/2 open. ceramic housing is screwed in tight and I have zero issues with the vape it gives. It's only when I take the top off and begin refilling the tank it will start to leak and continues to leak until about 30 seconds after I put the cap back on. I figure I am losing close to 1 ml during the refill process. Again, it is vaping like a champ and I have zero complaints/issues other than the leaking. any thoughts?
 

steliosss

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Ok... now you have to check and clean the o-ring of the center post.
If the issue remains, clean all the Ithaka parts for any iron filings.


EDIT: I had the same problem with an Ody. Just a cleaning with a toothbrush and everything is ok :)
 
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levisdaddy

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I just got my Ithaka!!! Thank you IMEO!!!!

I havent built it yet, as i have been preparing for a hectic weekend out of town, as soon as i get back its game on!

I took it apart to look at it, and am a bit intimidated, but i am sure ill be able to figure it out!

Had a quick question (or two). The center pin at the 510 connection is not centered, it is almost pressing against the inside of the connection, also it is recessed my a mm or two, is this normal? did i not put it back together right? I feel like to screwed everything back together firmly and correctly, but the pin is touching the side and is far from flush.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Secondly, is it recommended that i switch out the nut that came with it before i build a coil or start use? if so, can someone direct me to the post in this thread or a good tutorial on how to do this.

please and thank you!
VERY happy to have joined the GG family! Clouds await!
 

ph0kused

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I think the conversation has to start with the PV that you are also using with the Ithaka. My apologies if I missed that.
Having two Ithakas on two different GGTS builds, I have almost no restriction with my draw and am able to lung hit if needed. Quite a few of my builds end up <1 and no issue with any stock GG atty.

Poppa D is on to something about the dremel. I did that on my 3rd GGTS and cant remember for which atty.
Subver is also correct as trying a different wick config may also help.

Test the draw with no wick at all and if the draw is tight you can eliminate everything else.

GL

For my PV I use a few different devices:

My number #1 right now is my Turtle Ship Mod

#2 is my Chiyou

#3 is my Vanilla mod by Smok-E mountain mech works.

I can assure you my mods are not the issue. Let me just say this, so my "ideal draw" will make sense... most of the time I have to drill out holes on my RBAs/RDAs because I prefer at LEAST 2 holes at 3/32 (drill bit size) which for the metric system is between two 2.5mm to 3.0mm holes. It's important to note that I prefer two 2.5mm - 3mm holes - it's like sucking through a straw.

Yes, I prefer to take big direct lung hits. On my old starter devices when I first got into vaping, like my Vamo, Provari, things like that I was mouth hitting because I didn't know any better, and I wasn't aware that I could open a device's airflow up to take a much bigger lung hit. The only reason why I prefer direct lung hitting to mouth hitting is that, I feel at 6mg nicotine running dual coils under .9ohms, I can get my fix much, much faster. With all of my other devices I had to mouth hit, I was running 18-24mg nico, and sucking on them all day like a baby with a bottle.

Ever since I opened up my airflow on all my atty's, I've been able to drip some, take 5-6 draws, and be done with it.

Thank you for the idea about taking everything out and drawing off the device not attached to my PV - never thought of that. As far as my qicks go, I'm not triple wrapping it. In fact, I'm not even double wrapping it. I'm using 1 strand of 3mm silica wick per coil.

To sum it up without writing a novel about my issue, is that I'm asking the community if there are any sub-ohm vapers on this forum that have RDA/Genesis atomizers that run their airflow at around 3/32 or 1/8 size holes and ALSO own an Ithaka... Is there a way to replicate that sort of resistance on the draw? From everything I've tried, I can almost get it to the point where I can take a direct lung hit to where I'm not sucking crazy hard to get it down there. But it's still nowhere near my other devices. I'm going to try taking out all wicks, and the bottom airflow cap off and see what that's like...keep you posted ~thanks all.
 
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imeothanasis

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Feb 13, 2009
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dont put the 2 caps together pat. First the big one then the small one:)
I'm having leaking issues from the 510 connection upon refilling my Ithaka. I run 3mm silica dual coil with auto feed 1/2 open. ceramic housing is screwed in tight and I have zero issues with the vape it gives. It's only when I take the top off and begin refilling the tank it will start to leak and continues to leak until about 30 seconds after I put the cap back on. I figure I am losing close to 1 ml during the refill process. Again, it is vaping like a champ and I have zero complaints/issues other than the leaking. any thoughts?
 

imeothanasis

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Feb 13, 2009
47,882
34,510
Athens, Hellas
gg-goldengreek.com
please check this simple video buddy:)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibvAtDmLm4g

I just got my Ithaka!!! Thank you IMEO!!!!

I havent built it yet, as i have been preparing for a hectic weekend out of town, as soon as i get back its game on!

I took it apart to look at it, and am a bit intimidated, but i am sure ill be able to figure it out!

Had a quick question (or two). The center pin at the 510 connection is not centered, it is almost pressing against the inside of the connection, also it is recessed my a mm or two, is this normal? did i not put it back together right? I feel like to screwed everything back together firmly and correctly, but the pin is touching the side and is far from flush.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Secondly, is it recommended that i switch out the nut that came with it before i build a coil or start use? if so, can someone direct me to the post in this thread or a good tutorial on how to do this.

please and thank you!
VERY happy to have joined the GG family! Clouds await!
 

subver

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Feb 18, 2012
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For my PV I use a few different devices:

My number #1 right now is my Turtle Ship Mod

#2 is my Chiyou

#3 is my Vanilla mod by Smok-E mountain mech works.

I can assure you my mods are not the issue. Let me just say this, so my "ideal draw" will make sense... most of the time I have to drill out holes on my RBAs/RDAs because I prefer at LEAST 2 holes at 3/32 (drill bit size) which for the metric system is between two 2.5mm to 3.0mm holes. It's important to note that I prefer two 2.5mm - 3mm holes - it's like sucking through a straw.

Yes, I prefer to take big direct lung hits. On my old starter devices when I first got into vaping, like my Vamo, Provari, things like that I was mouth hitting because I didn't know any better, and I wasn't aware that I could open a device's airflow up to take a much bigger lung hit. The only reason why I prefer direct lung hitting to mouth hitting is that, I feel at 6mg nicotine running dual coils under .9ohms, I can get my fix much, much faster. With all of my other devices I had to mouth hit, I was running 18-24mg nico, and sucking on them all day like a baby with a bottle.

Ever since I opened up my airflow on all my atty's, I've been able to drip some, take 5-6 draws, and be done with it.

Thank you for the idea about taking everything out and drawing off the device not attached to my PV - never thought of that. As far as my qicks go, I'm not triple wrapping it. In fact, I'm not even double wrapping it. I'm using 1 strand of 3mm silica wick per coil.

To sum it up without writing a novel about my issue, is that I'm asking the community if there are any sub-ohm vapers on this forum that have RDA/Genesis atomizers that run their airflow at around 3/32 or 1/8 size holes and ALSO own an Ithaka... Is there a way to replicate that sort of resistance on the draw? From everything I've tried, I can almost get it to the point where I can take a direct lung hit to where I'm not sucking crazy hard to get it down there. But it's still nowhere near my other devices. I'm going to try taking out all wicks, and the bottom airflow cap off and see what that's like...keep you posted ~thanks all.


2x 3mm holes? That seems enormous. I still don't quite understand your issue with the air flow - I take giant lung-filling hits, I don't suck it into my mouth first, it all goes right into my lungs - I only need to hold the button down for maybe 3-5 seconds - a lot like taking a drag of an analog.

Maybe you're just so used to these huge holes now it feels constricting?

My typical setup is .6ohm dual coils on 3mm silica (or lately, cotton hemp yarn)
 
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Aal_

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May 5, 2012
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Toronto
I'm having leaking issues from the 510 connection upon refilling my Ithaka. I run 3mm silica dual coil with auto feed 1/2 open. ceramic housing is screwed in tight and I have zero issues with the vape it gives. It's only when I take the top off and begin refilling the tank it will start to leak and continues to leak until about 30 seconds after I put the cap back on. I figure I am losing close to 1 ml during the refill process. Again, it is vaping like a champ and I have zero complaints/issues other than the leaking. any thoughts?

If you are having the leak upon refilling and closing the caps only try refilling then close the small cap half way, turn it upside down and continue screwing
 

mrgoodwrench2u

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Hey Mr. Imeo we are needing parts for Ithaka already ! like center post pin , rebuidable ready part , the o-ring set I could use and the lower body with the wings are all gone in E-Smoke GURU too , and the ceramics are needed !!!! any news ? on re stocking Ithaka parts , because it's still so new, we need parts still !!!!

Thank YOU IMEO
 

Shaketuga

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Hey Mr. Imeo we are needing parts for Ithaka already ! like center post pin , rebuidable ready part , the o-ring set I could use and the lower body with the wings are all gone in E-Smoke GURU too , and the ceramics are needed !!!! any news ? on re stocking Ithaka parts , because it's still so new, we need parts still !!!!

Thank YOU IMEO

I want to get my paws on another Lower body as well then I can get the other parts to build Big Mode!! 8ml schunn!!!


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