Ithaka official

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br777

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Jun 11, 2013
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I figured out the issue with gurgle and leakage.. I believe this is THE issue. If you get this right, it will work perfectly.

its all about how tightly you screw the atomizer portion down. The little o-ring on the post has to create a proper seal against the base of the tank.

the problem is you cant tighten it down too much like lmeo says to. he says to tighten it really tight, but if you do that the o-ring will either push through the hole partially, or pull itself to one side and break the seal.

instead, tighten it just enough to create a little tension. you can even watch the bottom of the tank to see if the o-ring begins to press too hard and lose its seal somehow.
If you tighten it just right, the o-ring creates a good seal and you get NO leakage, NO gurgle, and it works perfectly from the very first vape.

if you tighten too tight, you can literally lose the entire tank full through the bottom air hole and the post hole. you will get constant gurgle and it will never vape right.

sorry if this already got covered, but i was super frustrated until i figured this out.
 

darthkir

Senior Member
Dec 21, 2012
74
14
Malaysia
I figured out the issue with gurgle and leakage.. I believe this is THE issue. If you get this right, it will work perfectly.

its all about how tightly you screw the atomizer portion down. The little o-ring on the post has to create a proper seal against the base of the tank.

the problem is you cant tighten it down too much like lmeo says to. he says to tighten it really tight, but if you do that the o-ring will either push through the hole partially, or pull itself to one side and break the seal.

instead, tighten it just enough to create a little tension. you can even watch the bottom of the tank to see if the o-ring begins to press too hard and lose its seal somehow.
If you tighten it just right, the o-ring creates a good seal and you get NO leakage, NO gurgle, and it works perfectly from the very first vape.

if you tighten too tight, you can literally lose the entire tank full through the bottom air hole and the post hole. you will get constant gurgle and it will never vape right.

sorry if this already got covered, but i was super frustrated until i figured this out.

Luckily for me, not once i have ever had this gurgling issue.
 

imeothanasis

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Feb 13, 2009
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br, I am happy that you solved your problem but be sure that the more you tight the o-ring, the better buddy:)
I figured out the issue with gurgle and leakage.. I believe this is THE issue. If you get this right, it will work perfectly.

its all about how tightly you screw the atomizer portion down. The little o-ring on the post has to create a proper seal against the base of the tank.

the problem is you cant tighten it down too much like lmeo says to. he says to tighten it really tight, but if you do that the o-ring will either push through the hole partially, or pull itself to one side and break the seal.

instead, tighten it just enough to create a little tension. you can even watch the bottom of the tank to see if the o-ring begins to press too hard and lose its seal somehow.
If you tighten it just right, the o-ring creates a good seal and you get NO leakage, NO gurgle, and it works perfectly from the very first vape.

if you tighten too tight, you can literally lose the entire tank full through the bottom air hole and the post hole. you will get constant gurgle and it will never vape right.

sorry if this already got covered, but i was super frustrated until i figured this out.
 

Idaholandho

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Out of all the combinations outside of silica that I've tried, I use cotton/hemp the most. Both silica and cotton filled eko (twik) in 2mm. I find 2mm wicks better in ithaka than 3mm.

So very true. 3mm eko does not wick fast enough, too much medium and hard to keep up with a consistent juice flow.

A huge eko fan here and I rarely use silica BUT, I do and only use it in my Ithakas. A recent cotton user...I wish I had been using it long ago.
 

Idaholandho

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I was surprised to see cotton wick decently with a dual coil setup in Ithaka. Long and short per coil, X formation. Course, mp is open, open.

I will try a cotton set up in one of them shortly. I am using the X with OPEN also as it needs to be with the silica I use. I would of not thought of cotton in the Ithaka if I hadn't seen your post.
 

imeothanasis

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Its the first time that I see this video Stelios, thanks a lot for posting it here buddy!:)

Very nice review of Busardo! I am very pleased that he is pleased with Ithaka. He forgot some things to mention like temperature basic control or the ability to know everytime via clear window in what position you have set the basic feeding because of the 2 slots on its one side but its ok, they are not very important on a first review. But in general it was really nice review. Ithaka has so many features that you may miss some of them during a review.
Some things to mention. He is right about price but things like this are not cheap for sure. I tried to build the best without thinking of the cost. He is also right about kayfun, because kayfun tries to catch one feature of Ithaka, but its because kayfun copied my thought about putting deep down to the tank the wicks and left 2 slots to feed them.

I only disagree on that Ithaka takes a lot of time to be build. If you have notice on one of my videos, I do that in less than 2 minutes (with ready made wires of course). To my opinion, there is no quickest or easiest or more user friendly build than Ithaka. You also only use your hands to make a coil without the need of any tools.

Thanks a lot Busardo for this review, it was one of the best out there! I will send you a justGG to review it too if you dont mind:)
Busardo: "ΙΜΕΟ is a mad genius engineer !!!


 
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yankeebobo

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Jun 23, 2012
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So very true. 3mm eko does not wick fast enough, too much medium and hard to keep up with a consistent juice flow.

A huge eko fan here and I rarely use silica BUT, I do and only use it in my Ithakas. A recent cotton user...I wish I had been using it long ago.

Just setup a dual X on ithaka with sugar and cream cotton. Boiled it first but I only waited about 5 minutes. Seemed to take a little extra to break the taste but now it's ready. I did 3 at the coil, single in the channels. I actually think that may be much though as it's slightly muted all around performance wise. So far wicking is better than the cotton hemp. I'll have to try it in the penny. Ithaka is setup at 1ohm total. I almost tried the .7ohm but wasn't sure how cotton would be so I didn't throw too many variables in.

Next time I boil for at least my 20 mins, and I go .7-.8. Just FYI.
 

yankeebobo

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Nice I'm gonna have to try cotton I had 100 ft braided and dozed off while boiling it...I'm sure you can guess how the rest of the story goes lol nothing was burnt other than the pot it was in ;)


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If a watch pot never boils, then what does the sleep pot do? :)

I'm trying to decide if I want to get all the parts to go up to 8ML. Is it worth it or is stock better?


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Well, I can tell you that since it's all subjective, that will depend on you. For me, adding more length to an atty when it already holds enough for the day, I wouldn't bother. That's me. Add parts to make it 8ml, extend the TS to 18650, and snap a pic and tell me what size case you need. :)
Maybe two hands.
 

Idaholandho

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Just setup a dual X on ithaka with sugar and cream cotton. Boiled it first but I only waited about 5 minutes. Seemed to take a little extra to break the taste but now it's ready. I did 3 at the coil, single in the channels. I actually think that may be much though as it's slightly muted all around performance wise. So far wicking is better than the cotton hemp. I'll have to try it in the penny. Ithaka is setup at 1ohm total. I almost tried the .7ohm but wasn't sure how cotton would be so I didn't throw too many variables in.

Next time I boil for at least my 20 mins, and I go .7-.8. Just FYI.

I will take your advice brother.
Although wondering why so long on the boil? Does the time factor into medium performance or is it just for purifying? I boil my eko/silica and sera wool(GP Spheroid tank) but only max 3-4 minutes.
Thanks.
 

Shaketuga

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Aug 22, 2013
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If a watch pot never boils, then what does the sleep pot do? :)



Well, I can tell you that since it's all subjective, that will depend on you. For me, adding more length to an atty when it already holds enough for the day, I wouldn't bother. That's me. Add parts to make it 8ml, extend the TS to 18650, and snap a pic and tell me what size case you need. :)
Maybe two hands.

Absolutely once I get all the parts i I'll send you a pic. I'm a really heavy vaper so I usually end up refilling half way through the day. I figure 8ml would get me through a full 24 (good thing I'm a mixer eh?). Plus think of all the possibilities I'm also having a heck of a time finding a lower body :(


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yankeebobo

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Jun 23, 2012
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I will take your advice brother.
Although wondering why so long on the boil? Does the time factor into medium performance or is it just for purifying? I boil my eko/silica and sera wool(GP Spheroid tank) but only max 3-4 minutes.
Thanks.

I go 20 minutes only because it seems to almost fully, or fully, remove any trace of cotton taste and improve break in. That was with cotton hemp. I did a 5 min boil today and I tasted cotton for almost an hour. I just did a 20 min boil. Going to recoil a penny soon and test my theory.
 
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