Ithaka official

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Poppa D

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It depends on how tight the coils are wrapped. If the coils are tight the wick will protrude creating a gap between the 2 coils. The coils can be placed carefully to avoid direct contact as Imeo illustrated, under normal conditions/ use they aren't going to move.
Basically if you're concerned about this, while you're building your dual coil make the adjustments Imeo suggested.
 

Sir Center Fire

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Just because two wires are touching, doesnt mean electricity can easily pass between them. Even if you twist two wires around each other, like a quick splice, and it looks like the wires have really good contact to the naked eye...To an electron, that gap is huge and sort of difficult for it to cross. Thats why things are soldered, essentially turning two pieces into one . Now if the two resistance wires were touching, and one of the wires was significantly longer in length than the other, then that could possible cause an electrical shortage in the longer wire (because the shorter wire might offer less resistance). But for our purposes, both wires will be almost exactly the same size, so it will not matter.

Think of yourself as an electron traveling through one of the wires. You are going along your road, and all of a sudden you see a different road running parallel to the one your already on. This second road is the same length as the road you are on now (it is not a shortcut), and it is just as bumpy and rocky as the road you are on now (same resistance); but to get to it, you need to jump over the grand canyon. Which road will you take?

The path of least resistance.

And actually electrons dont even travel along wire how most people think. All they do is bump the next electron in the chain, kind of like a wave at a football game. Not trying to be a smartass, just dont want to give out incorrect information.
 
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jmarkus

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Just because two wires are touching, doesnt mean electricity can easily pass between them. Even if you twist two wires around each other, like a quick splice, and it looks like the wires have really good contact to the naked eye...To an electron, that gap is huge and sort of difficult for it to cross. Thats why things are soldered, essentially turning two pieces into one . Now if the two resistance wires were touching, and one of the wires was significantly longer in length than the other, then that could possible cause an electrical shortage in the longer wire (because the shorter wire might offer less resistance). But for our purposes, both wires will be almost exactly the same size, so it will not matter.

Think of yourself as an electron traveling through one of the wires. You are going along your road, and all of a sudden you see a different road running parallel to the one your already on. This second road is the same length as the road you are on now (it is not a shortcut), and it is just as bumpy and rocky as the road you are on now (same resistance); but to get to it, you need to jump over the grand canyon. Which road will you take?

The path of least resistance.

And actually electrons dont even travel along wire how most people think. All they do is bump the next electron in the chain, kind of like a wave at a football game. Not trying to be a smartass, just dont want to give out incorrect information.

thanks mate, i needed this since i didnt quite understand. dual coil for dummies. :)
 

MikeA5

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I build my genisis atomizers with un-oxidized stainless steel wicks and coils. When I first fire up the genny there are hot spots. I pulse the fire button to oxidize the coils. Doing this pulsing after a minute or two some times sooner the hot spots go away because I think the coils get oxidized therefore not allowing current to flow from the coil to the stainless steel wick. The same thing, I think, will happen with a dual coil Ithaka. If there is at first a short between the two coils, after pulsing the fire button a oxidation layer should start occuring on each coil thus breaking the short circuit between the coils. When I get my Ithaka I'll build a dual coil as Imeo has shown in his video. Then I'll pulse the fire button until both coils fire evenly. I'll know for sure when I get it and try it but I think the dual coils will work once both coils are oxidized and the resistance should be what it should be calculated out to be. That is, for example 2 ohms in parallel with 2 ohms = 1 ohm.
 

Scott_Simpson

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I have watched the Ithaka videos a couple of times, and it appears that it can be mounted on most devices using the 510 connection of the bottom cap, but without the bottom 510 cap it appears you can mount it on a GGTS using the normal GG connection ... is that correct?

I have a GG Stealth, which has a 510 connection in the top cap. Is it possible to add parts to allow me to mount Ithaka on my stealth using a normal GG connection? If so, what parts do I need? Also, is there any great advantage to using the normal GG connection over using the 510 connection?

Lastly, I have added a GGTS top cap and telescope section to my Stealth, but I have not yet added the collector tank top because I don't really understand what it does? What does it do, and will having the collector tank be an advantage when I get my Ithaka?
 

yankeebobo

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I have watched the Ithaka videos a couple of times, and it appears that it can be mounted on most devices using the 510 connection of the bottom cap, but without the bottom 510 cap it appears you can mount it on a GGTS using the normal GG connection ... is that correct?

I have a GG Stealth, which has a 510 connection in the top cap. Is it possible to add parts to allow me to mount Ithaka on my stealth using a normal GG connection? If so, what parts do I need? Also, is there any great advantage to using the normal GG connection over using the 510 connection?

Lastly, I have added a GGTS top cap and telescope section to my Stealth, but I have not yet added the collector tank top because I don't really understand what it does? What does it do, and will having the collector tank be an advantage when I get my Ithaka?

Paragraph 1: exactly correct. Add 510 base for any 510 mod

Paragraph 2: to keep the stealth mode, but use GG base, take stealth cap off, keep rethreader ring, add collector tank. Still uses 350 battery.

Paragraph 3: the collector tank has the GG base needed if you want GG connection. Besides that, people will over many reasons for collector tank. But....ill say this specifically with me using my iAtty. Sometimes my iAtty leaks. Where does my juice go? It drips down into that collector tank, not all over my car seat or desk. Then I take it apart and just clean it out.
 

yankeebobo

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The only advantage having the GGTS collector tank with Ithaka is the strong GG connection. Otherwise, Ithaka has the same functions on it's own. It has it's own collector tank and air flow control.

...Right?

Yes. From what I can tell there is a small overflow/collector tank. And as I see it the wick can suck THAT juice back up. So for me it would be a stronger connection. And yes the 510 base has its own air control ring.

The big thing I'm curious to see is that long center pin. It needs to be long to use the 510 adapter base. BUT... if you use it with gg base, that pin looks really long. It will make contact with pin on GGTS. But how far will it push the pin into the ts to extend the mod? Obviously not a huge amount but as I see it, it will extend it further than the other GG attys.
 

occultangle

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Yes. From what I can tell there is a small overflow/collector tank. And as I see it the wick can suck THAT juice back up. So for me it would be a stronger connection. And yes the 510 base has its own air control ring.

The big thing I'm curious to see is that long center pin. It needs to be long to use the 510 adapter base. BUT... if you use it with gg base, that pin looks really long. It will make contact with pin on GGTS. But how far will it push the pin into the ts to extend the mod? Obviously not a huge amount but as I see it, it will extend it further than the other GG attys.

I was wondering this as well because I was hoping to make my GGTS a bit shorter than it is now. I wonder if we could take off the brass part that acts as an adjustable center pin when using it on a GGTS?
 

billyapd21

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I was wondering this as well because I was hoping to make my GGTS a bit shorter than it is now. I wonder if we could take off the brass part that acts as an adjustable center pin when using it on a GGTS?

I was wondering the dame thing. I can't see why you wouldn't be able to.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
 

imeothanasis

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Ithaka doesnt have a collector tank River. Its second tank between rebuildable part and base is the one that re-feeds the wick and doesnt prevent from leaking of overflooding. This is a work for GGTS collector tank. Also Ithaka's AD control isnt a real collector tank, its very very small. Ithaka's AD is made just only for the air:)
The only advantage having the GGTS collector tank with Ithaka is the strong GG connection. Otherwise, Ithaka has the same functions on it's own. It has it's own collector tank and air flow control.

...Right?
 

imeothanasis

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Ithaka's long center pin push center pin of GGTS like a normal 510 atomizer yankee. A shorter center pin like Ody's would be better of course because Ody's center pin push the center pin of GGTS only a little. But AD base of Ithaka and its adjustable pole required a longer center pin
Yes. From what I can tell there is a small overflow/collector tank. And as I see it the wick can suck THAT juice back up. So for me it would be a stronger connection. And yes the 510 base has its own air control ring.

The big thing I'm curious to see is that long center pin. It needs to be long to use the 510 adapter base. BUT... if you use it with gg base, that pin looks really long. It will make contact with pin on GGTS. But how far will it push the pin into the ts to extend the mod? Obviously not a huge amount but as I see it, it will extend it further than the other GG attys.
 

imeothanasis

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I was wondering this as well because I was hoping to make my GGTS a bit shorter than it is now. I wonder if we could take off the brass part that acts as an adjustable center pin when using it on a GGTS?

you will earn 1,5mm if you do this occu. And yes, you can do it because even if the center post of Ithaka (without this brass moving pin), doesnt have a cut to allow air pass to the atomizer, GGTS has this cut, so its ok
 

Jojobo

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I have to say Imeo, the children seem very very well behaved and I love the fact that once in a while I can here the pitterpatter of little feet or the high pitched giggle. hugs to the children!


ahahaha, yes, I am doing this all the time as you do twitt. Sometimes I cant think of anything when they are screaming around me. lol

Thanks a lot twitt:)
 
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