Ithaka official
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I have a brass one, I just let it have its patina look. But honestly I haven't used it as much as my SS GG's. The SS GG's are really tough that's why I buy them. When the brass posts get sent out my SS's will be close to perfect.
No luck with the center post last night. It was loose but I tightened it good, filled it up, same problem. Still have many things to try, but I wanted to try them one at a time to eliminate each as I go. Next will be closing basic feeding.
I thought that I had read that it doesn't matter if the basic feeding piece isn't screwed down all the way to the base...is this correct?
I thought that I had read that it doesn't matter if the basic feeding piece isn't screwed down all the way to the base...is this correct?
Lol that's why I'm debating wether I really want a all brass GG
But I really hope Imeo makes a GGTS with the brass he uses for the Ithaka post
I'm having all problems now. Flooding or dry no in between. That is all because I disassembled and re-assembled center post. Something went wrong. I'm not sure what it is anymore. I'm using single coil around 2 2mm wicks basic feeding closed, screwed the center post with pliers. I dunno what to do now
River, the BF should not have to be screwed all the way down as this feature is what's partly used to adjust the coolness/hotness of the vape. Not all the way down will essentially have the housing lower and lead to cooler.
The leak is a mystery to me. I've had this happen to me before but once or twice. By the time I disassemble and reassemble it seems to go away. I get some leaks but not a large amount. But I also have the question below that ill respond to aal but also ask you.
I'm having all problems now. Flooding or dry no in between. That is all because I disassembled and re-assembled center post. Something went wrong. I'm not sure what it is anymore. I'm using single coil around 2 2mm wicks basic feeding closed, screwed the center post with pliers. I dunno what to do now
Do you have the channels of the center pin open to the holes or the holes closed off? It SOUNDS logical that closing off the holes in the ceramic may just lead to the juice rising with a pressure change and over filling the post. I haven't had the flood happen enough times to capture what position mine is in but my holes are showing right now and knock on wood no leaks. (Notches opposite channels).
Now keep in mind I'm stabbing in the air with this as I believe I've seen this happen to jojo with holes exposed but I can't remember.
That's one solution but not all are experiencing this problem. And I believe Imeo doesn't have this problem. Sadly if one doesn't have the issue, it's hard to trouble shoot a solution.
I can't remember if I left those holes exposed or not Hell I just figured out how that feature works last night lol.
So you are saying I need to close them right? I will try that and closed basic feeding tonight. And If that doesn't work I'll try the o-ring bit to seal the mouthpiece.
Hell I just figured out how that feature works last night lol. So you are saying I need to close them right? I will try that and closed basic feeding tonight. And If that doesn't work I'll try the o-ring bit to seal the mouthpiece.
I'm having all problems now. Flooding or dry no in between. That is all because I disassembled and re-assembled center post. Something went wrong. I'm not sure what it is anymore. I'm using single coil around 2 2mm wicks basic feeding closed, screwed the center post with pliers. I dunno what to do now
Oh shoot, you've already tried it with BF closed
Maybe it is the opening at the bottom of the ceramic...Have you changed your wick setup or has it been the same?
Is the brass tip centered in the 510 hole? Maybe a thicker o-ring that holds the + wire in place. Make sure there is NOTHING between the BF and mouth piece, I had that problem with Oddy when first I started using it because the wet wick was very hard to see when I placed the metal ring on rebuildable part and it almost drove me crazy until I finally saw the little piece of wick in between, it was causing a LARGE leak for such a small piece.
That's one solution but not all are experiencing this problem. And I believe Imeo doesn't have this problem. Sadly if one doesn't have the issue, it's hard to trouble shoot a solution.
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I can't remember if I left those holes exposed or not
So you are saying I need to close them right? I will try that and closed basic feeding tonight. And If that doesn't work I'll try the o-ring bit to seal the mouthpiece.
If the top cap o-ring REALLY thick and the MP is hard to open without unscrewing the ceramic, you may need a new o-ring. I had this problem with Penelope, and yes I can see that not letting the air to equalize the pressure as you put the top cap on.
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Oh shoot, you've already tried it with BF closed
Have you changed your wick setup or has it been the same?
Yankee and river. The two wholes at bottom of ceramic are open which I guess should be the case to release the liquid. But I'm using boba so I doubt these two small holes are doing anything really since boba is very thick and the holes are two small to let it escape. Anyway I think I know what the problem is. I am trying imeo's single coil with 2 2mm wicks. I think the wicks are too thin at the top of ceramic housing and in the channels. In Penelope I used to have this problem with 1 2mm wick that's why I used to double it. But here it is already doubled but not thick enough at top of channels since we have 4. Coupled with the thickness of boba that should cause problems. I think removing 2 strands from a 3mm wick is different than 2mm wick because the latter would be more compressed. Maybe I should fluff it or just use 2.5 wicks. By the way it is the first time I try this setup that is why I am inclined to think that this is the cause since it happened to me once before on a Penelope.
All big tubes of GGTS and Stealth's cap are made from this material Raj. It will tarnish but not as easy as the regular brass. Also all the button's heads of GGTS are made from this material too
of course it doesnt matter river. But you have to screw tight thew rebuildable part
River try this. After filling it fully, put the small cap but not all the way. Turn Ithaka upside down and quickly close the remainder of the top cap. Now if the mouthpiece is letting juice in, it should leak through it all over your hands . Turn it back and try it. If you feel a hard gurgle that means liquid was pushed from basic feeding or somewhere down there since it got stuck when it was upside down. Just my theory.
. Turn it back and try it. If you feel a hard gurgle that means liquid was pushed from basic feeding or somewhere down there since it got stuck when it was upside down. Just my theory.2mm wicks are very thin for Ithaka aal, you are right. But they are good for dual coils and I thought that you used dual coils. So put 2,5mm or 3mm wick to vape normal
you can close totally the caps and just bump Ithaka as I do on my video aal. Its very quick and easy trick
River try this. After filling it fully, put the small cap but not all the way. Turn Ithaka upside down and quickly close the remainder of the top cap. Now if the mouthpiece is letting juice in, it should leak through it all over your hands
Big tubes as in top tubes? What about other parts that come in the brass package? Will they be of this material since you mentioned button heads.
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