Ithaka official

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RiverNut

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Hi sub,
try inverting Ithaka while you screw the top cap on, and/or close basic feeding. I had the same issue and both of these solved it. If your liquid is thin, basic feeding should be barely open if at all.

Hey, I just wanna see if you guys have any tips on filling the Ithaka without it flooding. It usually only happens when I have the auto liquid filler slots open. I try screwing the cap on very very slowly and have even tried putting the O ring on first, but it always floods the ceramic and juice comes out of the positive post on the bottom (I also have the ceramic slots on the bottom open and the mouthpiece closed).

It's not really a huge deal, I usually just fill it with a paper towel underneath and then let the juice flow out of the mouthpiece (it can get messy, though, and can be a waste of juice) - but if you guys have any method of filling it without flooding that would be awesome!

It didn't happen so much with 100% VG, but I'm still using a pretty thick juice and can't figure out any way to not have it flood. Maybe I will keep the auto feeder slots closed next time I rebuild coils but I would rather not!

Thanks guys!
 

subver

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Hi sub,
try inverting Ithaka while you screw the top cap on, and/or close basic feeding. I had the same issue and both of these solved it. If your liquid is thin, basic feeding should be barely open if at all.

Cool thanks for the tip.. It's not thin liquid, it's mostly vg and some distiller water (velvet cloud vapor liquid) - not as thick as 100% vg though. When you say to screw the cap on with the Ithaka upside down, does it not leak out of the cap at all? I'll have to try that, thanks! I thought about trying that before too but wasn't sure how it'd work out.
I think my next setup I'll keep the basic feeding slots closed, but I do like having them open!
 

Icig

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Imeo, I can't seem to figure this out. After the air comes in the holes on the adjustable part of ithika where does it go? Does it still
Come up the 510 connection hole? I was asking because I have a 510 device I want
My ithika to sit flush on but am
Not sure if I can get air because it doesn't allow air in when it has an atty flush in top.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk 2
 

Killjoy1

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Flush is fine with Ithaka, you won't have any problems if you have it mounted flush on top of your mod. The air comes in first through the slot under the air control ring, then passes down to the connector around the outside of the center pin, then from the connector it goes up through the center pin (this is why there is a slot in the brass extension on the center pin, to allow the air to get in)
 

Darkreign

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Hi guys, I have been trying to read through all of the pages of this thread, but it has grown to epic proportions so I will have to ask my question directly. Sorry if it is a repeat.

I was recently fortunate enough to acquire a second-hand Ithaka and so far I LOVE this thing. However, the previous owner apparently used juice of substantial corrosive characteristics and the clear window is virtually unusable. I currently have it set up and working using a clear tank from my Oddy, but to do so I have had to remove the bottom ring with the serial number (the Oddy tank I have has male and female threading.)

Would a clear tank from an Oddy Extension work as a replacement? I am unsure of the dimensions of that piece and I don't want to alter this too far from original specs.

I am also having difficulty removing the smell of the offending liquid from the o-rings, which I intend to replace. I had to boil the whole thing in milk 3 times just to make it bearable. Hopefully the taste will fade from the metal parts as time goes on.
 

Lex0r

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Would a clear tank from an Oddy Extension work as a replacement? I am unsure of the dimensions of that piece and I don't want to alter this too far from original specs.

I am also having difficulty removing the smell of the offending liquid from the o-rings, which I intend to replace. I had to boil the whole thing in milk 3 times just to make it bearable. Hopefully the taste will fade from the metal parts as time goes on.

As far as I know, Oddy tanks and Ithaka tanks are threaded the same, so that should work just fine. Someone will correct me if I am wrong. For the metal parts, try cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush (with o-rings removed) and then rinse with water.
 

Darkreign

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Thanks Lex0r,

Now I just have to find an Oddy tank somewhere that is willing to ship to the US. I found one in stock at Golden Greek UK London, Electronic Cigarette & E-liquid suppliers, Batteries, GGTS, Ecigs E-Cigs E Cigs, GGTS, Golden Greek, Odysseus, Penelope, Proteus but from what I understand they defer orders in the US to COV, which doesn't have one in stock... I will try and see if they will allow it.

I have been browsing the Classifieds, but don't hold much hope for such a specific part.
 

Lex0r

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Thanks Lex0r,

Now I just have to find an Oddy tank somewhere that is willing to ship to the US. I found one in stock at Golden Greek UK London, Electronic Cigarette & E-liquid suppliers, Batteries, GGTS, Ecigs E-Cigs E Cigs, GGTS, Golden Greek, Odysseus, Penelope, Proteus but from what I understand they defer orders in the US to COV, which doesn't have one in stock... I will try and see if they will allow it.

I have been browsing the Classifieds, but don't hold much hope for such a specific part.

Well, on this note, COV customers should be receiving Ithaka parts soon. I ordered 2 plastic tanks and would be willing to sell you one at cost, unless someone ordered more and would be kind enough to help you by sparing one. Let me know.
 
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