It's time to talk about RBA's...

[FEEDER]

Cyclone, with the standard cap, fits the reo perfectly
It packs enough of a punch for me, single coil, around 1.1-1.2ohm, but they're all crazy subohmers round here, like crash Moses LOL
Frank

 

[FACE MEAT]

Very easy to do. Just gotta take your time and use lube.

Always use lube......

If you take your time, lube usually isn't necessary.

Oh, wait...nevermind...we're talking about REOs.

 

[turbocad6]

I don't think I'm allergic to anything and from all the crap that I've inhaled over the years I don't think a little brass is going to kill me, but personally I don't like what it does to the taste, not so sure I can taste the chrome or nickel, sometimes I think I can, but brass gets me right away. some say it's no good for health reasons, don't know much about that, there are many thousands of cheap pv's out there that have chrome and/or brass exposed to juice really, for me it's the taste that gets me and it affects my teeth, causes me to grind for some strange reason, nichrome wire does this to me also, same thing, metallic taste and teeth grinding, but then again I never claimed to be normal, so

the rm2 is a great little atty if the tastes of these metals don't bother you, and it seems most don't have any issues with it either, but if you know you have issues with brass or nickel or chrome then I'd say it's best to just stick with a stainless steel atty... off the top of my head, for a cheap atty for the non milled reo I would suggest the a6s, already set up with a bottom hole in the post so bottom feeds out of the box, full stainless steel, all you need to do is drill the air hole in the cap, or, if you're not opposed to drilling a center post then the igo s is a great little atty and also cheaper than the rm2, around the same size as an rm2 internally too, making it better than the a6s on that front, the a6s has a larger chamber and taste is not as great as a tiny chamber imo... I did my igo s and it had a stainless steel center pin so it was fine but I've seen others say that the new igo s actually has a brass center pin anyway, so that might not be best... once you go milled then your choices open up immensely, there are plenty of great stainless steel atty's out there


the center pin is the juices path so even that little bit can be enough to affect it, but then again even the reo's internal center pin that connects to the juice bottle in the 510 connection is brass, so all stock reo's have at least some brass in the juice path. I replaced mine with a stainless steel center pin so now no brass at all for those affected by brass, is the amount of brass in the center pin alone enough for you to detect it? I can't say for sure because I only used the brass center pin for less than week, and always with the rm2 as well, so can't really judge how much difference the center pin alone might make... at least juice doesn't pool and stay in the center pin so I assume the problem is much more with something like an atty where juice sits than just the 510 pin itself...

 

[generic mutant]

I read a lot of stuff about brass safety when looking into drip tips, can't provide sources, but it seems there are a few concerns:

1) Lead. Neurotoxic, accumulates at the surface of brass. Won't be an issue with well made parts, because they won't have any lead in. But in Chinese 'mystery metal' it's a consideration. Juice may attack the surface, drawing it out.

2) Oxides. When unplated brass develops a patina, it's oxidising. More of an issue as turbocad says with prolonged exposure, but some juices can be quite corrosive, and will attack it fairly quickly. Some of these oxides will end up in your mouth or the juice. They're probably quite heavy, so unlikely to evaporate, but an atomiser doesn't work purely - perhaps even mostly - on evaporation. Some liquid is thrown up as a mist, and will carry some of this with it.

Whether they're harmful cumulatively is very hard to guess without working out exactly what they are and what the exposure is. But I've heard a few people say "pick stainless steel for anything immersed in juice. For parts in contact with juice, SS is best, but you can get away with other stuff as long as it's high quality"

3) Allergy. Google for 'brass instrument allergy' for lots of discussion on this. It doesn't sound threatening, it'll just make parts of your skin in prolonged contact with brass itch, redden and crack. Only really going to be a problem for us with drip tips.

 

[DrillRX]

Always use lube......

This is definitely a "that's what she said" moment.

Sorry couldn't resist.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[moondragon]

That's a long boat trip for a little box-mod.

[gazes skyward...]

Hmmm. Second Reo...

And that's how the collection starts ...

 

[generic mutant]

Don't even joke. Because of this very thread, I started researching the Cyclone / Cyclops, and decided I wanted one anyway for my other mods. That's another £60.

Probably when it comes I'll love it, so I'll be forced to buy a milled reo to fully appreciate it.

[But then I won't want to drill out my Cyclone, so I'll get the bottom feeder version too...]

 

[marsos52]

thanks for all the input...

 

[jameth]

even the reo's internal center pin that connects to the juice bottle in the 510 connection is brass, so all stock reo's have at least some brass in the juice path. I replaced mine with a stainless steel center pin so now no brass at all

I know I am digging up a kind of old post, but....

Do you have any additional info you can provide on how you went about doing this?

 

[turbocad6]

I took a 1" long #6 SS screw and drilled straight through it, then grinded the head down till it's more of just a nub and used this as a replacement firing pin... the screw being threaded allows me to then use nuts to secure in my case a ring terminal but in your case the firing pin, then the silicone feed tube goes right over the threads of the screw and is secured very well, no glueing or anything necessary, the tube almost screws on really and the threads hold it tight enough no leaks but then the tube can be removed and reinstalled at any time...


also, just as an FYI, I've been reading about soaking brass in a vinegar/ baking soda? solution or something like that to remove the surface lead from brass... it's possible that this may actually be what I taste and many have said that soaking it and removing the lead from the surface is enough to remove the toxins that are a concern... my concern has always been taste... I eventually want to try this with my rm2 that I still have laying around somewhere... it's possible that this may be enough for you instead of making a SS pin?

 

[thinkingaboutit]

I know I am digging up a kind of old post, but....

Do you have any additional info you can provide on how you went about doing this?

I don't...but since the old thread mentioned those with nickel allergies, check out Rob's new igo. All stainless.

 

[jameth]

The question was referring to the brass nozzle inside the REO itself, not the atomizer.


Thanks for the info turbocad6, I'm not to worried about it as of now, and I am not convinced it is messing with the taste of my juice even.

But in the grand scheme of things, I like the idea of less contact with potentially leech-able heavy metals, SS through and through would just make me feel better more then anything else