JAC Vapour Series-B DNA 75w
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2.0mm diameter coil, 26 ga. 316L stainless steel, 7 wraps spaced, .45 - .50 ohms, ... cotton wick, 17ish watts, 430 degrees. I have some kanthal builds in older Kayfuns on Provaris (power mode) and truthfully it is not as saturated or consistent. Temp control has really grown on me.
Used to be easy to spec a build. Now they look like fighter jet specs.
2.0mm diameter coil, 26 ga. 316L stainless steel, 7 wraps spaced, .45 - .50 ohms, ... cotton wick, 17ish watts, 430 degrees. I have some kanthal builds in older Kayfuns on Provaris (power mode) and truthfully it is not as saturated or consistent. Temp control has really grown on me.
Used to be easy to spec a build. Now they look like fighter jet specs.
your ohms are way lower than mine and your watts are higher... I'll have to try that build on it
Are you doing temp control? Mine might be six wraps. Been so long since I built a coil I just plain forget.your ohms are way lower than mine and your watts are higher... I'll have to try that build on it
Yep, I'm still playing around with SS and Kan, trying out different builds, yours is on the list next haha
I'd say the value really comes through with TC. The DNA is worlds better than most other mods. Yihi is in the same class, but it's not quite up to a DNA.
2.0mm diameter coil, 26 ga. 316L stainless steel, 7 wraps spaced, .45 - .50 ohms, ... cotton wick, 17ish watts, 430 degrees. I have some kanthal builds in older Kayfuns on Provaris (power mode) and truthfully it is not as saturated or consistent. Temp control has really grown on me.
Used to be easy to spec a build. Now they look like fighter jet specs.
Your build is close to mine. I build 8 wraps 28ga SS316L 2mm and it comes out to be about .8 ohms. I've played around with .5 ohms to 2 ohms and I like it between .5 and 8. I vape at 8.5 watts on a new wick and crank it to 10 watts as the coil and wick break in and start to coat over. I'll go as high as 15W with some juices. It depends on where the flavor and vapor peak.
I remember when 2 ohms was low resistance and we cringed when people talked about anything below .5 ohms.
There's been one or two times that TC mode would have saved me from a burned vape. Sometimes the mod gets cranked up in pocket carry. A month or two ago I was with family eating outside on the patio at a restaurant with my Innokin Proton and took a hit. The mod had pocket cranked to 75W from pressure on the joystick. Hot hit and a strong hint of singe!
I'm trying to develop a habit of locking my mods when I pocket carry.
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Mine's more likely to fall over when tapped if the Kayfun is on it. With the Beserker 24mm it's a lot shorter, and a lot more stable with a lighter atty.
ETA: I put the Doggy Style on it last night and it's a different feel. The DS is light and the mod's not so top heavy.
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@DaveP - I'm not sure how much you've read but you may want to look into some preemptive surgery on the magnets before they present you with an issue.
In a related story, I thought I'd killed Kat's Sandstorm trying to get her surgically repaired magnets seated perfectly flush. After numerous failed attempts, I took a chance that I probably shouldn't have, which was removing the cover and placing direct pressure on both (magnets) with a vise.
The magnet was great, but the fire button stuck in the ON position. Realizing I had nothing to lose, I pulled the top cap off with the intention of releasing pressure from the button. Amazingly, it worked, and the unit has been working fine for over a week now.
I got lucky.
The moral of the story is, don't be an idiot (like me).
In a related story, I thought I'd killed Kat's Sandstorm trying to get her surgically repaired magnets seated perfectly flush. After numerous failed attempts, I took a chance that I probably shouldn't have, which was removing the cover and placing direct pressure on both (magnets) with a vise.
The magnet was great, but the fire button stuck in the ON position. Realizing I had nothing to lose, I pulled the top cap off with the intention of releasing pressure from the button. Amazingly, it worked, and the unit has been working fine for over a week now.
I got lucky.
The moral of the story is, don't be an idiot (like me).
I got lucky.
The moral of the story is, don't be an idiot (like me).
I like to be ahead of the game and fix things before they get out of hand, but my motto is basically, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!". Mine's only got a few days use on it, so I'll wait and see of the battery door magnets start to get loose. The good part is that magnets don't generally get lost. They pop off and stick to the next available surface on the device, so repair is just a matter of re-securing them.
Some high quality double-stick tape might be the winning fix as long as it's not so thick that the cover isn't flush. At least the thickness would be uniform and the cover wouldn't be catawampus. Stick the magnet on the tape, trim with a razor blade, and apply.
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That used to be my thinking until my truck turned 25 years old. Now it's more like, "Fix it before it breaks". I anticipate when stuff might break down and leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere (its happened). Then I replace it. Even if it doesn't need it I know it wont be long before it does. Oxygen sensors, batteries, pulleys, radiator hoses, etc., And especially when I've torn into the truck working on something else. I ask myself, "While I have this thing apart is there anything else that would be easy to fix while I'm here"? Things like starters and brakes usually give you a head's up but other things don't. So I try to stay ahead of that stuff. The price of breaking down in no man's land almost always pays for the parts I'm replacing 10x over. Had a $12 idler pulley cost me $775 a few years ago. Belt came off, ripped out radiator neck. In the middle of South Carolina. What a pain! Lesson learned.
I'll chase noises and other strange and detectable faults. I learned auto repair from a Chilton's auto repair manual ($50 in 1969). I wore it out and the pages showed dark stains over time! It kept a '56 Chevy Bel Air, a '65 Mustang Fastback, and an '67 Olds 442 going in style during my Teen and early Twenties years!
These days I tend to buy new and trade at the end of 3-4 years.
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We have a lot of the thick heavy Chilton’s books!
Got my new Jac this past Monday!
Are people still having trouble with the magnets? Out of my three Jacs, only one has had magnet issues and it was from the batch that Jac acknowledged had a magnet problem. The other two are fine. So far, at least.
Mine only came in a week ago. It's had three battery changes and the magnets seem tight and secure. Whatever they were using to hold them in place may have been the issue. Double-stick tape or a dot of epoxy is the common method from my experience. I don't know what mine uses for securing the magnets. If one pops out I'll worry about it.
The last time I remember having door magnet issues was on a SMOK 200W box mod. I haven't used that one n years. It's probably in a box somewhere in a closet.
I use super glue gel sparingly for re-securing magnets...after I mark them first with Sharpie as to make sure I don't put'em backwards.
We ordered (Wife and I) 2 of the original JAC's in July '17 and 2 more in Oct. '17. One of the 1st 2 after a few month's had 'the magnet' problem. And one of them (don't know from which order) just last month had 'the problem'. No way to know if it was even the same 'magnet' coming out again. A tiny drop of superglue and let it cure overnight has been my 'fix' too. And I suppose it can't be repeated often enough ... mark the magnet before gluing it back in to get it 'right'.
Kat had the issue before anyone I'm aware of, as it was before they became popular here in the US. I had one from the same batch which was fine (so far).
Out of three, I've only had issues with the Sandstorm. The two 22's have both been fine to date, but I USB them a lot more often than swapping out.
All of mine have been marked with a silver Sharpie, in case the day comes.
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