JAC Vapour Series-B DNA 75w
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Sandstorm wrapped. KD picked, DPL installed. 
I was expecting that to happen but it mostly didn't. The thin strip at the bottom of the battery door started tearing after a few weeks, I cut it off so it wouldn't spread to the side panel. The rest is holding up good. No loosening at all on the edges.
I did remove all the paint before I put the wrap on. Figured having loose paint underneath the wrap might not be good. Left the wrap off the battery door as well because it looked cool.
I always found that black Jac a bit slippery. I got a plain matte red wrap. It's a little more grippy than the original paint but wish I had got something with texture.
Today I decided to give up on TC with the Jac. It was getting harder and harder to make it detect the resistance properly. Works fine in power mode so I'm going to stick with that.
Pretty sure the problem was the loose 510. It provides enough of a path for power, but I guess TC needs a very stable connection.
I had one Pico set up with TC and that worked fine for a while. That ended up having the same problem, wouldn't reliably pick up the resistance. So I guess I'm out of the TC game now. Shame because I got a really nice vape on the Jac when it was working right.
Pretty sure the problem was the loose 510. It provides enough of a path for power, but I guess TC needs a very stable connection.
I had one Pico set up with TC and that worked fine for a while. That ended up having the same problem, wouldn't reliably pick up the resistance. So I guess I'm out of the TC game now. Shame because I got a really nice vape on the Jac when it was working right.
Hey Mick. Please forgive me for not reading back, but did you try tightening the screws up near the 510 connector?
At one time I actually took the top off to try to figure out the problem. Didn't do any good, but I'm sure they are tight.
Pretty sure I know what the problem is. I know the 510 is loose. I dropped it on concrete once and it had pulled slightly out. Someone posted a suggestion from another site saying to tap it back in with a hammer to reestablish the connection between the 510 body and the top frame piece. I did that and it worked for a while. Then it started getting shaky again. I figured that if the 510 wasn't connecting to the top then I could bypass it by putting a metal washer between the tank and the top of the mod. After that it worked for a long time.
The last few months it has gone downhill. Every time I put a tank back on after filling or whatever I had to fuss with it. I've tapped on the 510. Tried different washers. Lifted up the positive pin. It was getting harder but I always got it to work in the end until this last time.
The same post that mentioned tapping with a hammer said the only permanent fix might be to solder a wire connection between the 510 and the top plate, on the inside. Given my primitive soldering skills that doesn't sound very practical.
I don't to mess with it any more. It works fine in power mode so I don't want to risk killing it.
Sometimes a man has got to admit defeat. And when we’re talking under $100 it makes it a little easier. However, i understand your disappointment over losing TC ability. I’ve been using TC long enough now that going back to power mode seems archaic.
I solved that problem on a mod or two by installing one of these finned heat sinks. It makes the mod a little taller, but the pins are adjustable on top and bottom.
510 heat sink | eBay
I solved that problem on a mod or two by installing one of these finned heat sinks. It makes the mod a little taller, but the pins are adjustable on top and bottom.
510 heat sink | eBay
Is the 'adjustment' just one screw that you turn from the bottom, so as you 'screw' in from the bottom it 'raises' the height of the pin (other end of screw) in the top section of the adapter.
There's two screws, one inside the top and the other at the bottom of the 510, so it's adjustable for the atomizer connection as well as the mod connection. I just checked mine. I bought it for my Wismec Relleaux RX200S, since it didn't like one of my favorite attys with a shorter 510 connector.
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Interesting ... the listing for the picture in your initial post didn't have a good look at the 'top side' of the adapter.
But this listing did and it doesn't 'look like' a screw in the top.
25mm Stainless Steel Finned 510 Thread Heat Sink Adapter V2 For All 510 Threads | eBay
I solved that problem on a mod or two by installing one of these finned heat sinks. It makes the mod a little taller, but the pins are adjustable on top and bottom.
510 heat sink | eBay
Wow, who knew. I really didn't realize they had a specific purpose. I use many of them for the glorious color combos.
Apparently all are not created equal. Mine has two set screw style screws that are adjustable for 510 contact top and bottom. You might want to buy from a vendor who shows both ends in the picture.
Do you remember who/where you got yours? If so could you post a name/link? Thank you.
Wouldn't you lose the connection if there was a screw on each side and you loosened one of them? I'm not sure that I understand the benefit of having more than one... except if the screw size was too short to use alone.
If someone else took a picture of your mod and then posted it without attribution, we would all wonder, "Who stole Kat's mod?"
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