JAC Vapour Series-B DNA 75w

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englishmick

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Apparently all are not created equal. Mine has two set screw style screws that are adjustable for 510 contact top and bottom. You might want to buy from a vendor who shows both ends in the picture.

I was looking at them on FT a year or so ago when I was having problems with a loose 510 on an old mod. I found it quite hard to figure out which of the multitude of offerings was adjustable on both ends. The descriptions weren't very clear.

On some of them it looked like one end was connected to an outer barrel and you had to adjust it by moving the barrel against friction with a rubber insulator. The other end was adjusted by a screw that went into that outer barrel. But the descriptions were so inscrutable that I gave up.
 
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DaveP

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I was looking at them on FT a year or so ago when I was having problems with a loose 510 on an old mod. I found it quite hard to figure out which of the multitude of offerings was adjustable on both ends. The descriptions weren't very clear.

On some of them it looked like one end was connected to an outer barrel and you had to adjust it by moving the barrel against friction with a rubber insulator. The other end was adjusted by a screw that went into that outer barrel. But the descriptions were so inscrutable that I gave up.

The ones I have are years old, but they have two set screws that are independently adjustable, so you can fit the atty and the mod as needed. I've only used it on the Realleaux 200s. No other mod has required it for the attys I use.

ETA: the screws in mine are slot heads. We usually think of "set screws" as hex head, but any screw that locks something in place can be a set screw. "Adjustment screw" might be a suitable term for these. The important thing is that there's two that allow adjustment on the mod and atty sides.
 
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DaveP

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Wouldn't you lose the connection if there was a screw on each side and you loosened one of them? I'm not sure that I understand the benefit of having more than one... except if the screw size was too short to use alone.

The two screws are headless and threaded (like a set screw with a slot head) and they screw into the barrel on opposite ends. One extends out like the 510 connection at the bottom of an atty and the other is in the barrel on the mod side. Both are adjustable for contact with the atty and the mod and stay in place pretty well. Infrequent adjustments may be necessary from time to time if you take it on and off a lot.

Mine was only used on the Relleaux RX200S and it's been there forever.
 
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Baditude

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MikeE3

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Wouldn't you lose the connection if there was a screw on each side and you loosened one of them? I'm not sure that I understand the benefit of having more than one... except if the screw size was too short to use alone.

I was wondering that too and thinking it must be a threaded tube passing through the insulator that both the top and bottom adjustment screw thread into. And low and behold @DaveP confirmed that with the description of the one he has.

I was looking at them on FT a year or so ago when I was having problems with a loose 510 on an old mod. I found it quite hard to figure out which of the multitude of offerings was adjustable on both ends. The descriptions weren't very clear.

On some of them it looked like one end was connected to an outer barrel and you had to adjust it by moving the barrel against friction with a rubber insulator. The other end was adjusted by a screw that went into that outer barrel. But the descriptions were so inscrutable that I gave up.

Indeed! FT's pictures and descriptions are quite lacking and/or confusing. And none of them showed a 'set screw', just flat slot screws. I too gave up.

The only place google took me that had an adjustable heatsink was dhgate. But the min purchase quantity is 100 of 'em.

Heat Sink Adaptor Pin Both Adjustable 22mm And 24mm Deep Heatsink Adapter For E Cigarettes RDA Atomizers Vape DHL Free Pyrex Wide Bore Drip Tip Stainless Steel 510 Drip Tip From Lovevaporizer, $1.43| DHgate.Com

heat-sink-adaptor-pin-both-adjustable-22mm.jpg
 

smoked25years

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This one is in stock and one reviewer says both pins are adjustable. But the review is from 2015 and the description says "brass" but the heat sink is gold. Maybe it's not a review of the same product. The most recent review says what he received is not the same color or the same product.
$2.31 510 Heat Dissipation Heat Sink for Atomizers - stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

This one looks to be correct but it is temporarily sold out.
$1.91 510 Finned Heat Sink for Atomizers - aluminum / 22mm diameter / silver at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
1998901-5.jpg
 

MikeE3

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This one is in stock and one reviewer says both pins are adjustable. But the review is from 2015 and the description says "brass" but the heat sink is gold. Maybe it's not a review of the same product. The most recent review says what he received is not the same color or the same product.
$2.31 510 Heat Dissipation Heat Sink for Atomizers - stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

This one looks to be correct but it is temporarily sold out.
$1.91 510 Finned Heat Sink for Atomizers - aluminum / 22mm diameter / silver at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
View attachment 792471

Good searching there 'smoked'. You've got more patience then me going through all the FT items to find these two. :thumb:
 

englishmick

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Hey folks - I've come to the end of the road with my Jac. I got a good year out of it so I'm not complaining.

It got so it always read 0.4 ohms over on any tank I put on it. I popped the top plate to take a look. I had resisted doing that because it meant cutting the top off the wrap but I got fed up. Discovered that the insulator around the positive pin in the 510 was pinched at one side so it wasn't pushed all the way through on the underside of the 510.

I pushed the pin out the top and got the insulator reseated, but there was discoloration on it so it might be heat damaged. Put it back together and now it says either no atomizer or shorted.

I guess it would be possible to get a replacement insulator from Jac. But that would mean unsoldering and resoldering the pin. And doing that in a tight space really close to the insulator. The insulator might not even be the problem. Either the pos or neg solder joints could be bad. Or there could be a problem with the insulation on the wires. Or whatever.

I figure someone with more energy or better soldering skills than me might be able to fix it. Or even just harvest the DNA board, or the switch, screen etc.

So if anyone is interested let me know and I'll drop it in the mail.
 

Bronze

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Hey folks - I've come to the end of the road with my Jac. I got a good year out of it so I'm not complaining.

It got so it always read 0.4 ohms over on any tank I put on it. I popped the top plate to take a look. I had resisted doing that because it meant cutting the top off the wrap but I got fed up. Discovered that the insulator around the positive pin in the 510 was pinched at one side so it wasn't pushed all the way through on the underside of the 510.

I pushed the pin out the top and got the insulator reseated, but there was discoloration on it so it might be heat damaged. Put it back together and now it says either no atomizer or shorted.

I guess it would be possible to get a replacement insulator from Jac. But that would mean unsoldering and resoldering the pin. And doing that in a tight space really close to the insulator. The insulator might not even be the problem. Either the pos or neg solder joints could be bad. Or there could be a problem with the insulation on the wires. Or whatever.

I figure someone with more energy or better soldering skills than me might be able to fix it. Or even just harvest the DNA board, or the switch, screen etc.

So if anyone is interested let me know and I'll drop it in the mail.
 
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DPLongo22

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Hey folks - I've come to the end of the road with my Jac. I got a good year out of it so I'm not complaining.

It got so it always read 0.4 ohms over on any tank I put on it. I popped the top plate to take a look. I had resisted doing that because it meant cutting the top off the wrap but I got fed up. Discovered that the insulator around the positive pin in the 510 was pinched at one side so it wasn't pushed all the way through on the underside of the 510.

I pushed the pin out the top and got the insulator reseated, but there was discoloration on it so it might be heat damaged. Put it back together and now it says either no atomizer or shorted.

I guess it would be possible to get a replacement insulator from Jac. But that would mean unsoldering and resoldering the pin. And doing that in a tight space really close to the insulator. The insulator might not even be the problem. Either the pos or neg solder joints could be bad. Or there could be a problem with the insulation on the wires. Or whatever.

I figure someone with more energy or better soldering skills than me might be able to fix it. Or even just harvest the DNA board, or the switch, screen etc.

So if anyone is interested let me know and I'll drop it in the mail.

I'm so sorry to see this, Mick. :(
 
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