What is your serial number? Mine is # 6855. I'm wondering if as production goes along the quality starts slipping.
JD Mods Stingray- CLONE
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What is your serial number? Mine is # 6855. I'm wondering if as production goes along the quality starts slipping.
in regard to the jd and clone. afaik there is no such thing as "black copper". are these painted? if that is the case I don't want it so much any more. what would be awesome is if they enameled it like a sillims lighter. since we all smoked I am sure many of you have seen one of those.
I would like the plain copper jd le. the thing is with his quality issues I don't want to pay for it again. my infinite has a very good seam too. as I said very low s/n. perhaps they did slack off after 7,000 of them
I also wonder if only a few factories make these clones and they get packaged. why on earth would so many factories make the same thing? I don't know it's china
I would like the plain copper jd le. the thing is with his quality issues I don't want to pay for it again. my infinite has a very good seam too. as I said very low s/n. perhaps they did slack off after 7,000 of them
I also wonder if only a few factories make these clones and they get packaged. why on earth would so many factories make the same thing? I don't know it's china
I remember watching some kind of How Its Made show one time and they were talking about nuts and bolts. After X amount of them being made the machines need to be recalibrated or the nuts and bolts aren't at the correct tolerances that they require. So I figure it's the same story with the clones. Though a slight variance with these doesn't matter enough to the manufacturer to recalibrated the machines. I will say the threads are excellent everything screws together very smoothly. The switch did need a drop of oil but that's fine.
Not that I'm complaining about Infinity. I paid what I consider to be a really cheap price for what I got and how it works. Who knows what the seller paid. Along with shipping from china, ebay fees, then shipping to me, he had to make some kind of profit in there somewhere so I feel my $39 was well spent for what I have.
On a side note I tried tiny amount Noalox on the switch post, but it's paste and made the switch stick for a second or two in the on position and not release right away. The oil has worked better.
Not that I'm complaining about Infinity. I paid what I consider to be a really cheap price for what I got and how it works. Who knows what the seller paid. Along with shipping from china, ebay fees, then shipping to me, he had to make some kind of profit in there somewhere so I feel my $39 was well spent for what I have.
On a side note I tried tiny amount Noalox on the switch post, but it's paste and made the switch stick for a second or two in the on position and not release right away. The oil has worked better.
I received the Infinite version in brass yesterday. Serial number on mine is high 3000's. You can still see the tube seem a little bit. It doesn't completely disappear. Looks good enough to me though. This is my first mech so i am not really sure what to expect. The switch on mine catches a bit. You have to make sure your center or close on the switch when firing. It fires fine otherwise. I cleaned the threads and everything with Brasso. I did find a couple real tiny burrs. Other than that I am pretty happy with it. I am going to let mine petina.
I had a Crown RDA I purchased a while back for a good brass. It looks alright on the Stingray. I seen one with a brass Nimbus that looked real good. What do you guys think would be the best RDA/RBA to match the brass Stingray ?.
I had a Crown RDA I purchased a while back for a good brass. It looks alright on the Stingray. I seen one with a brass Nimbus that looked real good. What do you guys think would be the best RDA/RBA to match the brass Stingray ?.
What spot on the switch would you drop the oil on ?. I had the switch apart cleaning it and the tube threads.
Here's my stingray with a hcigar brass kraken on top. Not using the drip tip since it's too loose. I need to try a different ring.
I got the idea of oil on the switch from V3 Tronics while checking out their flip mod. They recommended a quick spray of WD40 into the switch. So inside the switch you have the bottom cap with a post that goes up through the center of the threaded brass part of the switch. That was where I put just a drop of oil. Didn't make it perfect but it helped. It's just going to take time to wear in and has gotten better from when I first got it.
I got the idea of oil on the switch from V3 Tronics while checking out their flip mod. They recommended a quick spray of WD40 into the switch. So inside the switch you have the bottom cap with a post that goes up through the center of the threaded brass part of the switch. That was where I put just a drop of oil. Didn't make it perfect but it helped. It's just going to take time to wear in and has gotten better from when I first got it.
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The best matching atty for the Brass Stingray is a Brass Kraken. Most things look good on it though.
its one of the easiest mods to pair with since its 22mm and has both SS and brass. I think this is why my stingray and Gus Lord are my go to mods.
The drip tip I got with mine is super loose too. It doesn't fit anything. Need to replace the O-ring. I don't know how Infinite managed that one. I'll have to give the oil a try.
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I have a Crown RDA with brass cover. It is 22mm but it looks short 1 mm. Still looks alright but could have been better. I was looking at the Kraken. I will probably go for that one. I was thinking maybe more of a dripper.
I have one coming from here, in stock
Stingray Copper Black Clone by Infinite Mechanical Mod Deep Quality Engraving | eBay
I would have ordered the $33 kit from FT but it says that the 510 is fixed even though I think that may be wrong. It's only $20 more and will be correct anyway.
Stingray Copper Black Clone by Infinite Mechanical Mod Deep Quality Engraving | eBay
I would have ordered the $33 kit from FT but it says that the 510 is fixed even though I think that may be wrong. It's only $20 more and will be correct anyway.
My Tobecos came in. I'm not buying any more Tobeco products after this.
The seams are super visible, the 510 pin doesn't float and thus won't make contact with short pinned atomizers, and one of the ones I got has a negative pin that they screwed in crooked and messed up the delrin.
The seams are super visible, the 510 pin doesn't float and thus won't make contact with short pinned atomizers, and one of the ones I got has a negative pin that they screwed in crooked and messed up the delrin.
I went out and purchased a couple new o-rings for the drip tip for the Infinite Brass Stingray. They screwed up and put the wrong o-rings on the drip tip. The drip tip didn't fit any of my tanks, RBA's, RDA's. They need to be 2 mm not 1 mm. The o-ring size you need is 5 mm x 9 mm x 2 mm.
I think the o-ring is known simply as #8. on all tips. well, ones that fit. I don't have that issue because my infinite came repackaged without the drip tip! I do have the real jd though. I have been using this mod exclusively for three days. even though I have "better": ones and the jd. I just really like it. if you don't screw the button in tight it works pretty good but it does have a click. even though this and the jd have silver and magnets they do not hit as hard as some others. oddly my hardest hitting device has brass contacts.
The button on my Stringray clone started sticking pretty bad, the more that I tightened it against the battery the more it would stick.
I finally figured out how that was happening, the inside of the button was making contact with the outside of the tube as marked with red arrows. I put a threaded rod into the button and mounted it in my electric drill and took a little out using sand paper (carefully) to increase it's ID slightly. No more sticking.
The picture is of a Neme button 'cause I couldn't find a picture of a Stingray button tore down but it should be close enough.
It's really nice now.........again
Oh, this is my FT non-polished brass version
I finally figured out how that was happening, the inside of the button was making contact with the outside of the tube as marked with red arrows. I put a threaded rod into the button and mounted it in my electric drill and took a little out using sand paper (carefully) to increase it's ID slightly. No more sticking.
The picture is of a Neme button 'cause I couldn't find a picture of a Stingray button tore down but it should be close enough.
It's really nice now.........again
Oh, this is my FT non-polished brass version
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Anybody have the all copper imfinite stingray clone, $44.99, the one with big stingray etch on the tubes? I placed a pre order from whitestagvapor.com but its going to be until april 30th shipped
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