JD Mods Stingray- CLONE

[the4thpower3]

Without going into too much detail, I got a hold of two Tobeco models. One, the tubes and the top cap didn't line up when screwed down onto the main tube (threads were cut wrong) - so it sat off to the side like it was crooked. The other one's stainless steel ring on both the top cap and button were loose and just popped out...they are glued on. The tubes are not seamless like the FT version. I can feel a lip on one part.
Both magnets popped out as soon as I took the switch apart.
The visible, logo etched, portion of the button (on both) are not flat or flush or seamlessly fit into the steel ring like both of my FT versions.

It's highly likely it was just a bad batch so I don't want to make a big stink about it - these did not come from whitestag (that's another long story and has nothing to do with Thom or the wait). Maybe Tobeco figured all this out and that's why they were taking so long.

bce22 - I'd be interested to see pics of your Tobeco's button

It's much more obvious in person than in this pic - the tobeco is on the right (this is after I glued it back in).

 

[dwcraig1]

First let me say that I really like my FT non polished Stingray clone
@ emus, back in post #223 you said "anti-spin pin delete", I don't get what you mean by delete but understand the pin your talking about.
Will you explain better?

I have now replaced my anti-spin pin with a cooper one that's the length of the groove that it sits in.
It may not work any better(worked great) but now it's big enough that I can at least see it to pick it up.

 

[bce22]

Without going into too much detail, I got a hold of two Tobeco models. One, the tubes and the top cap didn't line up when screwed down onto the main tube (threads were cut wrong) - so it sat off to the side like it was crooked. The other one's stainless steel ring on both the top cap and button were loose and just popped out...they are glued on.
The visible, logo etched, portion of the button (on both) are not flat or flush or seamlessly fit into the steel ring like both of my FT versions.

It's highly likely it was just a bad batch so I don't want to make a big stink about it - these did not come from whitestag (that's another long story and has nothing to do with Thom or the wait).


bce22 - I'd be interested to see pics of your Tobeco's button

It's much more obvious in person than in this pic - the tobeco is on the right (this is after I glued it back in).

4th, Thanks for the info. I may pick up a FT version to compare myself. I have not had any problem with the SS rings being loose and didn't know they were glued on. Are the FT versions glued as well? The bottom logo is pretty dark as is the etching on the main tube. It is darker on the button than on the tube. The bottom part of the button is flush with the steel ring in relation to the bottom, however in your picture, on the left two mods, it looks completely flush on the sides into the SS housing. On mine the bottom is rounded at the edges.

I snapped a couple of quick pics at my desk at work as discretely as I could. Don't want to try explaining to the boss what I am doing

I have been using it all day so in the pics it is a little finger-printy and linty (yeah I made those words up).

EDIT: Do you mean the INSIDE of the button?

EDIT 2: Just tried to test voltage drop using my Tobeco in-line volt meter and I can't get it to read on my Tobeco Stingray. bummer.

 

[dwcraig1]

I was disappointed to see that my FT Neme clone top cap wouldn't screw on to my FT Stingray clone, I have a 3D clone coming from FT and was thinking I might be able to use it on both but that's not happening.

 

[emus]

First let me say that I really like my FT non polished Stingray clone
@ emus, back in post #223 you said "anti-spin pin delete", I don't get what you mean by delete but understand the pin your talking about.
Will you explain better?

I have now replaced my anti-spin pin with a cooper one that's the length of the groove that it sits in.
It may not work any better(worked great) but now it's big enough that I can at least see it to pick it up.

That lil anti-spin pin in nemesis and stingay switches.

I take em out because I like a free spinning button.

I can still compress batt for no batt rattle w/ springed switches and magnet switches. Enough drag to screw switch into position. I cinch with tube twist instead of button twist. My pinky never loosens switch anymore.

 

[Tooth Tamer]

Just recieved my infinite and im impressed. Etched really deep and darn near seamless tubes.
button is a tad crunchy but i haven't cleaned it yet and from what I read should break in pretty quick!

 

[the4thpower3]

however in your picture, on the left two mods, it looks completely flush on the sides into the SS housing. On mine the bottom is rounded at the edges.

That's what I was looking for. The FT models are completely flush and seamless - it almost looks like an inlay.

This is the FT SS model (I think I posted this before...both my FT models brushed brass and SS look the same)

 

[the4thpower3]

You can see glue marks (greenish crap) around the edges of the button.
The marks on the top of the brass top cap is the glue (which I couldn't entirely remove).
They aren't "press" fit in - they kinda clicked in a little; but I think Tobeco just took a short cut and decided to glue them.

You might recall the brushed brass model I got from FT - the ss ring on the top cap was slightly misaligned for the air flow;
I could hardly get that ring to budge - I used a vice and channel locks to turn that sucker a fraction. Obviously that was press fit on.

 

[the4thpower3]

I was disappointed to see that my FT Neme clone top cap wouldn't screw on to my FT Stingray clone, I have a 3D clone coming from FT and was thinking I might be able to use it on both but that's not happening.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing - and totally forgot that I saw someone that hybrid'd the Aqua to a BC stingray.

As I was letting my new glue job on my Tobeco top cap harden; I decided to do the same.
I just happened to get another Aqua from FT on the same vapemail day
I don't think it looks bad - the lip between the stingray tube and the base of the aqua doesn't look too bad to me because of the lip/gap the tank section creates. Maybe it would look less obvious on the SS model.

 

[the4thpower3]

That lil anti-spin pin in nemesis and stingay switches.

I take em out because I like a free spinning button.

I can still compress batt for no batt rattle w/ springed switches and magnet switches. Enough drag to screw switch into position. I cinch with tube twist instead of button twist. My pinky never loosens switch anymore.

I can't figure out how you do it.
I tried taking that pin out after you said this the first time.
The button screwed in...but I had a hell of a time trying to unscrew it.
I must be ......ed - or you are a magician
I prefer to think I'm ......ed. lol

I assume you just put a little cant pressure on the switch when screwing- which is how I eventually got mine off after trying this.

 

[the4thpower3]

Oh, for those looking at FT versions.

FT just posted another white box polished brass version today.
But in the pics FT posted - there are no battery vent air hole slots in the button.
I wouldn't suggest buying it unless this is shown otherwise.

 

[NatureBoy]

Got the Tobeco one today. It's ok.

Button is going to need some work. It's crunchy and it sticks in, I actually have to pull it back out. Awesome. Well worth the $40 and month n half wait...... /sarcasm

EDIT: ok, i adjusted the switch, working MUCH better now.. and the throw is very short. i really like the 510 connector, works perfectly along with the button, no fiddling about with trying to get things just right, no battery wobble, etc.

comparing it to my other 18350 mods, it's actually the shortest, just slightly shorter than the Atom.

overall, its a nice mod, but i think the one from FT would have been fine. all in all though, I'm generally happy with it. i would be a lot happier if it was really phantom brass. I'm just kinda bored with brass these days... and tired of having to polish every couple days.

going to see about getting a vinyl wrap for it if i can find one for a reasonable price ($15 isn't reasonable).

then again, i just might follow through with getting it plated.

on more thing, the 'engravings' suck. its only laser etching, and i imagine it'll fade very quickly after a couple polishes. the button already has a couple nicks in the black markings, just brass showing through.

 

[emus]

I can't figure out how you do it.
I tried taking that pin out after you said this the first time.
The button screwed in...but I had a hell of a time trying to unscrew it.
I must be ......ed - or you are a magician
I prefer to think I'm ......ed. lol

I assume you just put a little cant pressure on the switch when screwing- which is how I eventually got mine off after trying this.

Gotta be more than luck because I have 4 de-pinned Nemmie and one de-pinned Ray. All have magnets now. Threads are all bone dry.

Install batt.
Close tube gaps then back off about 1/8th turn leaving a slight body gap.
Install de-spin-pinned switch.
Snug switch all in till feel a little resistance against batt.
Tighten body gap.
Batt is held firmly.

With spring there is plenty of resistance.
With firm magnet there is plenty of resistance.
With ultra light magnet I lift up on button while spinning.
If threads are lubed then no bueno.

 

[the4thpower3]

Emus, I didn't say anything about luck - I said magic

I still don't really get it. I don't see the benefit. But like I said, I'm a little slow.
I run really short short switches on all three of my Nems with magnets.
Buttons don't come loose and don't fire unlocked.

 

[emus]

Emus, I didn't say anything about luck - I said magic

I still don't really get it. I don't see the benefit. But like I said, I'm a little slow.
I run really short short switches on all three of my Nems with magnets.
Buttons don't come loose and don't fire unlocked.

Nice gap.

I run short throw switches w/ small lock ring gap too. I've cut several pins from M5-0.8.

I dunno, spinning button makes me feel free.

 

[NatureBoy]

I dunno, spinning button makes me feel free.

hahaha..........

 

[the4thpower3]

Actually, I just compared the throw on my nemmes compared to my stingrays - my "modded" nemmes are shorter.

 

[bce22]

I agree, I also hate how the button on my Stingray loosens up over time. Free wheelin' nem button doesn't have this problem. Conclusion, SR pin has gotta go.

4th, how did you reduce the throw on your nems so much?

 

[emus]

Wouldn't a regular Sharpie wipe right off? Possibly the industrial version that can be used under water or on oily surfaces would stay on. I use them in my hobby.
Sharpie® Industrial Fine Point Permanent Marker, Black, Each | Staples®

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

I've got your answer. After using ray for for a day I cleaned w/ dish soap. The sharpie is gone and the factory black on the ray is gone. No black or dark grey to be found. Now ray and button logos look light grey and color is consistent. Looks good to me.
Switch is dialed in and is smooth and tight. Had to buff tube below lock ring to add clearance to rid switch cap to tube interference. Top black plastic pressed in another 0.25mm and IGO-L now fires. FT Ray is doing great.

Would be cool if nemie tube was threaded same but it isn't.

Only mod I can think of is shave 0.25 mm from hot pin and 0.25 mm from lower main tube to decrease lock ring gap 0.25 mm. It would be difficult to shave more than 0.25mm because of short body tube length.

I'm thrilled switch tolerances are tight as most clones have sloppy switches.

It would be hands down fav mod if it had one piece 18500 tube. Maybe one day I'll hold one piece 18500 copper ray.

 

[the4thpower3]

4th, how did you reduce the throw on your nems so much?

Nothing special.
I use flat top 18650s only.
I run a Fat Daddy Vapes bottom switch pin (which is lightly thicker).
Yes, I've blown too much money on his magnet and pin kits - don't judge me
I use the stock top 510 pin. The ones with the beauty/kick rings have to run thin spacer magnets with the flat top batteries.
You can see the Hcigar version in the middle without the beauty/kick ring has the shortest throw.