it only took somewhere around 3-5 days to kick a 13/14 year - 2 pack/day habit.
Congratulations on you're success MeeGz


it only took somewhere around 3-5 days to kick a 13/14 year - 2 pack/day habit.
One thing you have to remember with series mod's you are only getting the actual battery time of a single 18650. So if you want lasting power I would suggest the efest 3000mah batts. They are also 30a batts and pack a punch.
I just wish they would take that stupid smart mode out of the menu.
Currently I'm running sets of LG HE4s @20A. From what I understand this device calls for 25A batteries. However there doesn't seem to be a performance hit, the owner of a local vape shop said that when he used the crowntank he preferred the .5 coil and it was performing as it should. He did however recommend 30A batteries. Do I really need them? If it's performing well and my battery life is good why would I? Is there any real facts behind his suggestion or was it just a sales pitch?
No you are not increasing battery life either. If they were in parallel then you would be doubling battery life(mah)in series you are not.
Edit: the only thing that doubles in series is the batteries voltage.
Revert to the 3.10 release. The 3.11 release has the (stupid) smart mode.
tapatyped
He did however recommend 30A batteries. Do I really need them? .
??? Any tech sheets, test results, or other info to support this?You want a battery that is close to 50% of what you normally use. So if you are running at 12amps then I would get 25amp batteries.
Ouch. Musta bought it from a B&M. Don't wanna tell u what I paid .... It would bug you.Lol it's not worth it, I'm not picky it's a $70 dollar device so little things don't bug me. I only bought it so I had a good beater mod for work.
Cheapest I can find is $35.14Ouch. Musta bought it from a B&M. Don't wanna tell u what I paid .... It would bug you.
tapatyped
Everyone who vapes should read Mooch's Blog here on ECF. You need to educate yourself on safe battery rating and the claims of 30A batteries and higher.
There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A! | E-Cigarette Forum
![]()
There are no true 30A/300mAh batteries out there.
One thing you have to remember with series mod's you are only getting the actual battery time of a single 18650. So if you want lasting power I would suggest the efest 3000mah batts. They are also 30a batts and pack a punch.
Congratulations on you're success MeeGz. I started out with a Kanger EVOD2 on a Vision Spinner II myself and ran with that setup for about 2 months before I started stepping up to better equipment. I had used tobacco in one form or another for 52 years, and like you, I found it relatively painless to switch over to vaping. A word of Caution though, I like Vaping so much (like many others here) that I find that if I don't watch myself, I could be spending MORE on vaping than I did on Tobacco
. It becomes as much Hobby as it does Tobacco Cessation. Vaping has/will save or extend a lot of lives I am guessing, and is a He!! of a lot more fun to do. Again, Congratulations, and Vape On !!
![]()
No. As you correctly figured, you're absolutely fine hitting 12A on a 20A battery. Remember, the HE4s are 20A continous discharge. The pulse discharge is assumed by some to be 30-35A, but this is not in the LG spec sheet. I also run HE4s and 25r's (another 20A) at similar amp draws & have no issues, and no worries.
??? Any tech sheets, test results, or other info to support this?
tapatyped
Oh and by the way this came from the shop owner.
No matter what tank I use it starts great but after 15 minutes the ohms change like from .25 to .4 then .5 and sometimes it says atomizer short I guess the 510 on them is not good
Yes, the cuboid 510 is pretty crappy.
It isnt as deep as it should be, and I am not a fan of the square pin. Almost seems like if its slightly off center, short messages pop up more frequently. The oring also seems a bit shoddy.
If the ohms change (and sorry if this is something you already knew), and you are in TC mode, make sure you LOCK your resistance.
I am currently trying to swap out the 510 with a varitube 510. It is installed into that top plate, which is also a heatsink. I have it sitting in a UC cycle now, trying to break up the threading adhesive they used. Might even be just thermal putty. Once its done, i will snap a picture of the piece and all the 510 parts.
Ouch. Musta bought it from a B&M. Don't wanna tell u what I paid .... It would bug you.
tapatyped