Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt

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t8kiteasy

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I am bowing out of the testing for right now as my cuboids are functioning just fine I think I will let someone else try and figure out the glitches some are having. Right now I am relaxing with my TFV4 with a SS 316 build at .21 and just cloud chasing for the moment and enjoying it.
 

MeeGz

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I am running 26 gauge too. It stays in TC mode fine as long like I said with the testing I was doing. If the coil is low the power in TC mode needs to be higher ,and if your coil is higher the power in TC mode needs to be lower to stay in TC mode. Other than that this testing for the past three days now is driving me crazy trying to figure out why others àre having this problem.

That's strange. I tried running my CrownTank SS coils in TC mode but I never got enough power. Obviously those coils were never meant to be run in TC considering they have nickel legs. I have heard that there are working TCR settings for that coil. Perhaps there is a good TCR profile for your setup.

What FW version are you running? Did you update your mod when you received it? It could be your firmware. That's just one guess. Probably a bad one but what the heck!
 
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absoluttalent

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When I had issues with it jumping to power mode from tc, i found cleaning the threads on my atty and on the cuboid helped. just used a paper towel and cleaned it up a bit, worked fine afterwards. Its real finicky, little ddust throws it all out of wack. Otherwise, its slightly loose connection in the atty. This was with a crown, griffin, and aromamizer)
 
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t8kiteasy

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When I had issues with it jumping to power mode from tc, i found cleaning the threads on my atty and on the cuboid helped. just used a paper towel and cleaned it up a bit, worked fine afterwards. Its real finicky, little ddust throws it all out of wack. Otherwise, its slightly loose connection in the atty. This was with a crown, griffin, and aromamizer)
I was just using 2 new RDA's I bought for the testing I was doing. I normally run my TFV4's and usually drip on my mech's but changed it up a bit.
 
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absoluttalent

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No not all three just the one I was doing the testing on,the black cuboid. I was not using the other two devices to test although I probably should have to see what would have happened.
are all 3 black?
From what ive read so far, seems the black ones have 90% of the issues thats being reported.

both of mine are black. One had the atty short problem (the one Im tearing apart), but both read resistances .03-.05 higher, and both did have fluctuating resistances

I do like the cuboids when they do work. Nice and small for a dual battery. But Im torn. I wouldnt mind getting another one in grey since they can be had for under $40, but at the same time, I dont want to slip Joyetech more money for these types of issues if it persists on another color.
 
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pappasmurfsharem

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are all 3 black?
From what ive read so far, seems the black ones have 90% of the issues thats being reported.

both of mine are black. One had the atty short problem (the one Im tearing apart), but both read resistances .03-.05 higher, and both did have fluctuating resistances

I do like the cuboids when they do work. Nice and small for a dual battery. But Im torn. I wouldnt mind getting another one in grey since they can be had for under $40, but at the same time, I dont want to slip Joyetech more money for these types of issues if it persists on another color.
Possible that they powder coated the top heatsink then put the 510 in so the ground connection could be slightly insulated and throwing resistance off?

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vitorchapas

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I think I have figured out why TC jumps into power mode after trying quite a few builds over the past couple days ranging from .22-.25(keep in mind this is with 316L SS wire). It seems like the higher you go in the resistance even if it is only .03 difference,you have to go lower on the power setting. I have a coil at .26 and kept my same power setting at 50 with 430 TC and it kept jumping back to power mode .So I started lowering the power setting and got it to 45 and it stays in TC mode.So maybe Joyeetech does have a glitch or two in Their board for this unit,or the power and TC is their back design of the DNA 200 board???
What batteries are you using?
I've seen that happening in my friends vtc. We found out it was the battery (can't remember which battery he was using). I guess the battery couldn't handle the amp draw at higher wattage so the vtc kicked back to 20w power mode.
We tested with one of mine vtc5 and vtc4 and, even at 75w ss316 mode, it stayed in tc
 
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t8kiteasy

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I have 2500mah efest running in all of them.( I do not have my 3000mah batts in these units as I thought they are still sitting in front of me next to my other mods).

I am not having problems with mine as some of you seem to think. I was just doing some testing to see what was causing others who have had the problem and that is what I found out in the black cuboid. It does not keep jumping out of TC mode all the time. Like I said the higher the coil I made the power mode had to be lowered to keep TC mode from jumping back into power mode and if I kept the coil at a lower build power mode could go higher and stay in TC mode.
 
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absoluttalent

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I cannot find the correlation with resistance and when it happens besides the fact the temp will read out much lower than it should. I fire it up when drawing and temp will read <200 for 2-3 seconds, then switch to power mode. I will have to keep better track.

I know ive used .22 up to .54 in TC. it was hit or miss with kicking me out to power mode.

Its happened with my 25r's and 30q's. Only thing thats been consistant with when its happened was when I used 316L 28ga wire, dual spaced coils. This was also when I used the default grubs on the aromimizer and griffin. I have switched out to the slotted replacements from Vaping Walrus and started using 26ga more. No issues since. So I am still thinking maybe its just acting funky from a bad connection at the posts with the wire.

T8, you said it was 2 new RDAs, which ones? And which wire?
Since we already know the cuboid occasionally has issues with longer threaded attys, getting a list of a wider range of compatible equipment would help.
 
To those having difficulty with the cuboid kicking over from TC to power mode, try re-flashing the firmware. For some reason mine was kicking to power mode with any SS316 build I threw on it. That's when I noticed that the ohms were reverting to a previously locked resistance (even after getting the new atomizer query). My coils are .19 but as soon as I'd hit the power button it would jump to .28 and go to power mode even when .19 was "locked". I re-flashed from 3.11 to 3.10 and now it's working again. I think Joyetech has a few bugs to work out with their firmware.

Re-flashing also solved an Atomizer Short problem that rendered the device unusable with every atty I threw on it. I think the firmware just gets dumb over time. :)

Hopefully this will help those with issues.
 

t8kiteasy

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I cannot find the correlation with resistance and when it happens besides the fact the temp will read out much lower than it should. I fire it up when drawing and temp will read <200 for 2-3 seconds, then switch to power mode. I will have to keep better track.

I know ive used .22 up to .54 in TC. it was hit or miss with kicking me out to power mode.

Its happened with my 25r's and 30q's. Only thing thats been consistant with when its happened was when I used 316L 28ga wire, dual spaced coils. This was also when I used the default grubs on the aromimizer and griffin. I have switched out to the slotted replacements from Vaping Walrus and started using 26ga more. No issues since. So I am still thinking maybe its just acting funky from a bad connection at the posts with the wire.

T8, you said it was 2 new RDAs, which ones? And which wire?
Since we already know the cuboid occasionally has issues with longer threaded attys, getting a list of a wider range of compatible equipment would help.

Black Widow(which is working fine)
Magma V2,which is screwing up still,at the moment.
I am going to tear down the Magma in the morning and see if the 510 insulator is toast(which is what I think is going on with it). And if that is not the problem I am not sure what I am going to do with it. I might trash it ??
 

Major911

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Not usually a silicone sleeve fan but I have to show this one off. This is without a doubt the best quality sleeve I've seen. Fit is perfect finish is strong and durable. Battery door is accessible without removing sleeve. Buttons are covered and protected but very responsive. Found this silicone king creation on eBay. Like it so much I ordered one for my istick 100w TC
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