JOYETECH ERoll

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DJ RyckRak

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is it typical for the juice to taste like crap in a brand new eroll? does the atomizer need breaking in ??

Yep !
What ever they prime the atomizers with...or until you get some juice into it...it tastes really, really nasty.
What I have learned to do with my eGo-C atomizers is to soak them in some nice juice for a couple of hours first.
Been doing it with my eRoll ones too. It helps...just dry them off and let them sit- spike down on a paper towel for awhile.
 

alisa1970

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I'm probably the most of obnoxious eRoll user. I don't Prime, I don't have poke or fidget- don't do anything I just fill up the tank and put it in and keep using it never had a problem. Never batteries going dead. It just works great.

That's been my experience, too. No fuss, no muss.
 

unloaded

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I agree that it's the primer you are tasting, it sucks. The older attys I call the wet ones, have primer in them. You can see it in the blister pack. I take the spike off and replace the wick in it. I do quick dry burns one the coil by blowing in the LED end. Then I prime the coil and spike with my juice.
 

dragonbone

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I'm probably the most of obnoxious eRoll user. I don't Prime, I don't have poke or fidget- don't do anything I just fill up the tank and put it in and keep using it never had a problem. Never batteries going dead. It just works great.

Me too. I haven't done a single thing and nothing has leaked, misfired or whatever with my eRoll or U-Can since I got them last year. I am still on my first battery and second atty lol. Just fill up and vape. It works. The end.

(Touch wood :p).
 

junkman

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Me too. I haven't done a single thing and nothing has leaked, misfired or whatever with my eRoll or U-Can since I got them last year. I am still on my first battery and second atty lol. Just fill up and vape. It works. The end.

(Touch wood :p).

Same. Works. No leaks. I have switched attys several times, but am replacing wicks as I go with stainless.

It just works is right. Almost to the point of boring - (not really). It is such a good vape and convenient device that I am no longer even shopping devices. This is just how I vape now.
 

bombastinator

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I have done it, but eventually the mesh began to look burned and let a brown color. But if you want to change it;

Put a vegetable oil or vg to strategic places so that ceramic piece slide better, then just tap it down. Then you can carefully slightly raise the coil with a needle and change the wick which is inside the coil.

The problem when recoil this is: if you don't solder electric wires to ends of the kanthal or nichrome (which is very difficult) , the coil will lose some power because all the resistance is not then in the coil. But maybe there will be enough.

If you need to solder nichrome or kanthal to standard wire, the easiest thing to use I have ever heard of is called a "Zapper". It's a small box which is effectively a tiny tiny arc welder. It can be easily powered because it simply uses a capacitor instead of the standard 20lb system. It is something that would only work for the miniscule wires used in an ecig.

It's a box with a button and two alligator clips. You attach one alligator clip to each wire, while holding one of them with something non conductive ( like the clip handles) then you press the button until there is a gollywhacker of a flash and pop, then immediately release the button. (this part sort of happens naturally)

They come from Britain and they're not cheap, unless you have some pounds lying around. It's 37 pounds plus international shipping, but they are supposed to work beautifully. you can do about one full wire (two weld points) a minute.

Zapper - Res/No-Res wire welder | ALL ABOUT E-CIGARETTES UK

I personally think they should have some sort of fold away shield myself. arc welder spark is bright enough to burn a hole in your retinas. There are welding glasses. Make sure to get those rated for mig/tig/arc. acetylene welding glasses aren't dark enough. the other option is also to do it with your eyes closed, which also works fine. my hands are shaky though so I'd use my arc welding mask if I bought one.
 
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Pepo

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If you need to solder nichrome or kanthal to standard wire, the easiest thing to use I have ever heard of is called a "Zapper". It's a small box which is effectively a tiny tiny arc welder. It can be easily powered because it simply uses a capacitor instead of the standard 20lb system. It is something that would only work for the miniscule wires used in an ecig.

It's a box with a button and two alligator clips. You attach one alligator clip to each wire, while holding one of them with something non conductive ( like the clip handles) then you press the button until there is a gollywhacker of a flash and pop, then immediately release the button. (this part sort of happens naturally)

They come from Britain and they're not cheap, unless you have some pounds lying around. It's 37 pounds plus international shipping, but they are supposed to work beautifully. you can do about one full wire (two weld points) a minute.

Zapper - Res/No-Res wire welder | ALL ABOUT E-CIGARETTES UK

I personally think they should have some sort of fold away shield myself. arc welder spark is bright enough to burn a hole in your retinas. There are welding glasses. Make sure to get those rated for mig/tig/arc. acetylene welding glasses aren't dark enough. the other option is also to do it with your eyes closed, which also works fine. my hands are shaky though so I'd use my arc welding mask if I bought one.
That would be perfect.
The problem when solder for this atomizer, there is a very little room, the solder point have to be a tiny. If put too much tin = fail, If must double wires so they can stay together before solder= fail. It can be done and I've done it, but then I thought why not I just buy a new atomizer.:ohmy:
 

bombastinator

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One option is sheet solder. It's a largely obsolete technique, but is still use for some jewelry. The solder comes as a thim piece of metal onstead of a wire. You snip off a piece the size you need, flux your pieces (afaik there is no flux filled sheet) set them up how you want them, put your piece of solder where you want the join, and hit the whole thing with a torch. It allows you to precisely control the amount of soldder used. If you've got a hot enough oven, you can just bake the whole thing.

This is actually the primary use of flux solder. It allows you to solder very small things to larger things at points you cant get to with a gun , or thst would be blown away by the gas of a torch.

Sheet solder is hard to find these days, but considering the amounts needed, you could just find some non flux core wire and bang on it with a hammer for a bit till it reaches the desired thickness.

Another solution is getting some very thin solder designed for electronics, and then modding the soldering gun. Yo need to take off the tip and find something really small, like a finishing nail to use instead.

The zapper is kind of awesome though, in that it joins the wire end to end, so it is effectively one wire. It fits im spaces a soldered wire simply wouldn't.
 
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Pepo

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Good techniques and that zapper would be surely best for that, if I had any more use for it.
Also maybe there isn't needed after all to add these electric wires to coil.
I calculated that if there is only the resistance wire(2.2 ohm) the whole distance, the power of the coil will drop from 6.2 W to bit under 5 W. Maybe it is still enough.
 
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vangrl27

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do you guys have other batteries (ego-twist etc..)? and if so do you find the flavor comparable?
I'm curious if it's maybe because I'm comparing the flavour to my ego twist with a clearomizer, which right now is far superior in flavor, and maybe I shouldn't be doing that. Or maybe the eroll attys just needs to be worked in.
 
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