A bit off topic, but how how often do you rebuild your ni, or ti coils? With kanthal i used to do it every day on my lemo and rda's, but i have this ni build in lemo for 3 days now, and haven't even rewicked it yet. Rayon is as clean as new, and the coil is just a little darker. Taste is still very good. Not really sure if i should have any health concerns because of little build up on the coil?
Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt
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Yep I like it a lot for sure, just not enough to dump my other mods. I wish it somehow worked worry kanthal so all my tanks would work with it, that's my main thing. I have tct and the ego one that I'm using with the evic-VT. I doubt I'll buy more coils for the ego one tank.
wow so many long post lazy to read all nut i do read the lipo issue and thank for clearing it out for me and now i got better understanding about it.
Ok it's a week i'm with this device. At first i used the Ti Coil, after a few puff flaver gone and vape also very less, change to Ni Coil to test, same issue, flavor gone after a few puff but more than the Ti Coil, this are the ego One Mega tank.
The next day went to local vape shop bought a box of Ni200 OCC for my subtank, and it's working great, not vape reduction nor flavor gone or less. Only thing is Kanger OCC coil very easy burn up coil when using creamy juice the Ni200 OCC also the same. So now i'm using fruity juice with it and after 3 tank the coil still rocking hard with flavor from every puff.
Read in this thread some one said unsrew the tank abit to create a suction in side to push the juice in to coil faster and i did and it feel better but still suck. And yes it's the juice hole too small and cannot catch up, read this in this thread also posted by some one.
Today after work, went to to local vape shop again, this time I bought some Nickle wire and build my lemo drop, 28 ga 10 wraps 3mm read .21 ohm, perfect. I use creamy juice also and it vape super, totally different kind of experince, totally not like the ego one mega tank. With that tank i have to set Temp to 500F but with this build i can only vape at 350F cos 400 to warm for me in malaysia hahahaa....
Tomorrow I'm going to build the Subtank RBA for sure with nickle.
Now my plant is for the ego one mega, I will switch to fruity juice afrer i built the subtank mini. hope fruity juice work better with this tank.
So is the ego one mega tank that not work for me, not the MOD, MOD are cool and work jut fine.
Ok it's a week i'm with this device. At first i used the Ti Coil, after a few puff flaver gone and vape also very less, change to Ni Coil to test, same issue, flavor gone after a few puff but more than the Ti Coil, this are the ego One Mega tank.
The next day went to local vape shop bought a box of Ni200 OCC for my subtank, and it's working great, not vape reduction nor flavor gone or less. Only thing is Kanger OCC coil very easy burn up coil when using creamy juice the Ni200 OCC also the same. So now i'm using fruity juice with it and after 3 tank the coil still rocking hard with flavor from every puff.
Read in this thread some one said unsrew the tank abit to create a suction in side to push the juice in to coil faster and i did and it feel better but still suck. And yes it's the juice hole too small and cannot catch up, read this in this thread also posted by some one.
Today after work, went to to local vape shop again, this time I bought some Nickle wire and build my lemo drop, 28 ga 10 wraps 3mm read .21 ohm, perfect. I use creamy juice also and it vape super, totally different kind of experince, totally not like the ego one mega tank. With that tank i have to set Temp to 500F but with this build i can only vape at 350F cos 400 to warm for me in malaysia hahahaa....
Tomorrow I'm going to build the Subtank RBA for sure with nickle.
Now my plant is for the ego one mega, I will switch to fruity juice afrer i built the subtank mini. hope fruity juice work better with this tank.
So is the ego one mega tank that not work for me, not the MOD, MOD are cool and work jut fine.
by the way, those who build the subtank mini rba, dont mind share how may wrap for it using 28g and with 2.5mm?
I re-wick with Rayon after about 40-50ml, but my ADV juice is gunky ol "Boba's Bounty". So roughly once a week if all goes well.
Health concerns?? I smoked for 30 years, so a little dirty vape doesn't concern me much
Health concerns?? I smoked for 30 years, so a little dirty vape doesn't concern me much
^This, 1000 times over.
Now I feel like an idiot: I adjusted the wick in my "known to be stable" tank, and I'm back to vaping at 440.
The eVic was doing exctly what it's supposed to do...imagine that
Your not looking too gunked up. I would just rewick. When the gunk gets very noticeable or the flavor starts to drop, then rebuild.This is my first ni build. Should i rebuild or just rewick? Can't dry burn that ni but than again, its a big no-no these days anyway..
Sorry for OT, but it will be used on my evicView attachment 464804
Yeah the issues seem to be all over the place huh? Makes it that much harder to troubleshoot.
So I checked, and my vendor sample unit has ver. 1.10..... Seems to work fine, wonder what the difference is...
I learned one thing.... It doesn't play well with the v1 sub tank....i think the doubling up on spring loaded (sub tank v1 has spring loaded 510 pin) causes issues. No biggie, the v1 works great on my invader mini, sub tank mini works great on my evic
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
I learned one thing.... It doesn't play well with the v1 sub tank....i think the doubling up on spring loaded (sub tank v1 has spring loaded 510 pin) causes issues. No biggie, the v1 works great on my invader mini, sub tank mini works great on my evic
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Well, when i took a better look at that picture, i realized i could try to do a better (looking) coil anyway
but it does look better than my kanthal builds after a day. Are all of you first timers as excited as i am about TC? I can't see a reason to build with kanthal again? Also like ti a lot. Easier to work with..
And turning it on with 10 clicks will show the devices temp.
Great info guys... Thanks for posting..
Go for it. I like my coils to look perfect also. OCD and all that lol.Well, when i took a better look at that picture, i realized i could try to do a better (looking) coil anyway
OK, so I played around with the coil itself (eGO One) and opened the holes up just a smidge and already I'm getting better production. So it looks like the juice delivery is not working well in this particular coil causing the temp control to kick in because well, no juice = dry hit = temp control = sad vapor.
Ok i discovered something very concerning with my VT. With the two derringers i have built with nickel... one 28 gauge single coil and one 30 gauge dual both at .10-.13 depending on temp.... they are constantly receiving power even when "off" and are very warm borderline hot to the touch when sitting dormant!
I was looking at my atty after taking a drag the other night... saw some wisps of vapor still coming off the coils as i was about to add some juice. I blew the trace vapor away... but to my surprise it continued to slowly (just barely visible) produce the faintest vapor without pressing the fire button. I then decided to wait and continue to blow on (cool) the coils to see what would happen... nothing... they remained at a constant "barely-on" state. I took my finger to the coils quickly and it was very warm/hot too much so that if i were to have kept it there it would have been painful.
I ask that you all try this... take a look at your nickel builds when the device is still on but in between vapes... are your coils "very warm" signifying that there is some power constantly running through them even when "off".
Weird stuff.
I was looking at my atty after taking a drag the other night... saw some wisps of vapor still coming off the coils as i was about to add some juice. I blew the trace vapor away... but to my surprise it continued to slowly (just barely visible) produce the faintest vapor without pressing the fire button. I then decided to wait and continue to blow on (cool) the coils to see what would happen... nothing... they remained at a constant "barely-on" state. I took my finger to the coils quickly and it was very warm/hot too much so that if i were to have kept it there it would have been painful.
I ask that you all try this... take a look at your nickel builds when the device is still on but in between vapes... are your coils "very warm" signifying that there is some power constantly running through them even when "off".
Weird stuff.
Ok, built a couple of coils for the st mini rba base. 9 wrap 28g ni came to .2 on my ohm reader and 7 wrap 28g came to .15. On my vt, the .2 ohm is reading at .13 and the .15 was reading at .09. Gonna try another kind of base to test, but seems it just may not read ohms as exactly as we'd hoped...or the kanger rba bases aren't that great either...a little frustrating.
I did do a temp test on dry cotton, didn't start to scorch til 420...so that part seems accurate.
I did do a temp test on dry cotton, didn't start to scorch til 420...so that part seems accurate.
Love it when everything turns out ok.
No kiddin! But it still blows my mind than it wasn't giving me the slightest burnt hit at over 500 degrees, just decreased vapor production.
As far as the Mega goes; not enough juice flow to keep up with what I was asking of it, and probably somewhat inconsistant resistance. Either way, I'm done with it. The tank I have on it now is steady as she goes!
loading up a dripper now
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