Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

[Carnage9270]

Well, the eVic VT finally came today along with a Kanger Subbox Mini kit I ordered, first let me get the bad out of the way. The eGo ONE Mega tank is garbage. The tiny coils it uses do not provide flavor at all. You can get a decent cloud out of it, but what buy tasty juice to miss the flavor? Secondly, I am not a huge fan of the menu system. Adjusting temp/wattage on the main screen is fine, but the secondary menu is a PITA.

Now for the good. The TC is amazing. Just flat out Amazing. After putting the Joytech tank aside and trying out a Ni coil in a Subtank Plus I have, it was a vast improvement. Then I put a 28ga .13ohm build in the RBA head and it took it up another notch. Great flavor from the Subtank that I was not expecting and for the first time, I actually had more vapor from a TC build than I could handle. The TC on this device is (so far) even better than my SX Mini M Class. I am going to mess around with builds some more in the Lemo I use on the M Class to see what I will need to do to compete with this device. One thing to mention...temp setting and joules on the M Class is a much tamer beast than the VT.

My first coil was a little weak in the wicking, so I rewicked and snapped a pic.

Ahhh yes, I was amazed by the subtank myself. Fits well on the VT too.

 

[USMCotaku]

Well, the eVic VT finally came today along with a Kanger Subbox Mini kit I ordered, first let me get the bad out of the way. The eGo ONE Mega tank is garbage. The tiny coils it uses do not provide flavor at all. You can get a decent cloud out of it, but what buy tasty juice to miss the flavor? Secondly, I am not a huge fan of the menu system. Adjusting temp/wattage on the main screen is fine, but the secondary menu is a PITA.

Now for the good. The TC is amazing. Just flat out Amazing. After putting the Joytech tank aside and trying out a Ni coil in a Subtank Plus I have, it was a vast improvement. Then I put a 28ga .13ohm build in the RBA head and it took it up another notch. Great flavor from the Subtank that I was not expecting and for the first time, I actually had more vapor from a TC build than I could handle. The TC on this device is (so far) even better than my SX Mini M Class. I am going to mess around with builds some more in the Lemo I use on the M Class to see what I will need to do to compete with this device. One thing to mention...temp setting and joules on the M Class is a much tamer beast than the VT.

My first coil was a little weak in the wicking, so I rewicked and snapped a pic.

You can always send that m class my way

 

[gliv52759]

I haven't yet but have some on the way.

I wrote this for some first time Tio2 users on ELR Forum. It may help out cause Tio2 is a little finicky.

I've been using Titanium wire aka Tio2 for a few months now and I found it need a little preparation before use. In my research on Tio2 I learned that it's primary use is jewelry making and welding. Now it's being used as a vaping resistance wire and it is truly amazing. Absolutely the best wire I have used to date. There is nothing out there that can match Tio2 for flavor or vapor production... but it is a little finicky. I haven't used the Tio2 that's being sold by ecig vendors. I've only used that which is used for jewelry and welding because it's cheaper. There are two types of Tio2 that's safe for vaping... Grade 1 99.5 pure, and Grade 2. My preference is Grade 1.

Tio2 Prep and Use

I've notice the Tio2 I'm using has a slight residue on it which require cleaning before it can be used. I cut off what I'm going to use and wash it with dish detergent and then rinse thoroughly with warm water... it removes the residue. Wrap your coil and mount it. When dry firing to shape your coil, lower your wattage to 15-20 watts and pulse slowly. Tio2 will meltdown if you pulse it too hot. There is no need to make it glow red to shape it. Then wick it and you're good to go. If you make a dual coil Tio2 build I recommend that you mount 1 coil first then check your resistance. Make sure it's not too low for a dual build. With some of the new Temperature Control Devices you can build down to .05 ohms which is great for Dual Tio2 builds. I also found the lower you go, the better your flavor will be. Make sure your device and your batteries can handle the super low ohms Tio2 delivers. Be prepared for the best flavor you've ever had!

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Just some info to throw in the mix.....

My eVic reads very differently than my Eleaf resistance meter.
These pics were taken seconds apart with the same tank/build at room temperature.
That's 0.25 on the res meter.... it's hard to tell in the light in this pic.
0.20 on the eVic VT.
Half an ohm difference.
This build should have spec'd out around .15 ohm according to Steamengine.View attachment 465840

View attachment 465839

When it worked my leaf read around 0.4 too high on everything...just saying. The leaf meters are crap in my opinion...

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Well, the eVic VT finally came today along with a Kanger Subbox Mini kit I ordered, first let me get the bad out of the way. The eGo ONE Mega tank is garbage. The tiny coils it uses do not provide flavor at all. You can get a decent cloud out of it, but what buy tasty juice to miss the flavor? Secondly, I am not a huge fan of the menu system. Adjusting temp/wattage on the main screen is fine, but the secondary menu is a PITA.

Now for the good. The TC is amazing. Just flat out Amazing. After putting the Joytech tank aside and trying out a Ni coil in a Subtank Plus I have, it was a vast improvement. Then I put a 28ga .13ohm build in the RBA head and it took it up another notch. Great flavor from the Subtank that I was not expecting and for the first time, I actually had more vapor from a TC build than I could handle. The TC on this device is (so far) even better than my SX Mini M Class. I am going to mess around with builds some more in the Lemo I use on the M Class to see what I will need to do to compete with this device. One thing to mention...temp setting and joules on the M Class is a much tamer beast than the VT.

My first coil was a little weak in the wicking, so I rewicked and snapped a pic.

Isn't the difference to them class due to the fact the vt sets a minimum 30w? Did you try the SX at higher joules or with more preheat??

 

[jefx]

What's the build and wire type and is it running in TC mode?

Titainium grade 1. Dual spaced coils. 5 wraps. TC on Ti.

 

[jefx]

When it worked my leaf read around 0.4 too high on everything...just saying. The leaf meters are crap in my opinion...

Hmm. Well, that sucks. But it's good to know, i guess.

 

[cigatron]

Titainium grade 1. Dual spaced coils. 5 wraps. TC on Ti.

View attachment 465870

Looks great, what coil ID and res? I'd like to order some G1 Ti and do the same build for my Billow.

 

[madrabbit]

arrgghh..how i wish to find titanium wire for my lemo or STmini rba....

 

[aldenf]

Just some info to throw in the mix.....

My eVic reads very differently than my Eleaf resistance meter.
These pics were taken seconds apart with the same tank/build at room temperature.
That's 0.25 on the res meter.... it's hard to tell in the light in this pic.
0.20 on the eVic VT.
Half an ohm difference.
This build should have spec'd out around .15 ohm according to Steamengine.View attachment 465840

View attachment 465839

Could the differences be the static resistance of the ohmmeter and the tank/mod?

 

[madrabbit]

being a first timer with TC and Ni200 coil.....with a .15 or .13 or.2 ohm build, it drain juice like drinking water and i feel like my 6mg become 12mg or even higher. is it normal.....

 

[paleh0rse]

Like most here, I'm having a hell of a time with the Kanger Ni OCC in TC mode. When I first put it on, it reads as 0.16 ohms. However, even if I lock that res, it drops to 0.12 the next time I let the screen time out and then hit the fire button. This results in my having to jack it up +90 degrees Fahrenheit -- from 460 to 550 -- just to get a decent vape.

Kinda sucks dealing with that, so I have some Ti wire on order to try my hand at Ti builds with my drippers and the Kanger RBA.

Has anyone figured out a way to get the standard Kanger Ni coils to work well?

 

[TheBloke]

Just some info to throw in the mix.....

My eVic reads very differently than my Eleaf resistance meter.
These pics were taken seconds apart with the same tank/build at room temperature.
That's 0.25 on the res meter.... it's hard to tell in the light in this pic.
0.20 on the eVic VT.
Half an ohm difference.
This build should have spec'd out around .15 ohm according to Steamengine.View attachment 465840

FYI I have almost literally thrown my ELeaf ohm meter in the bin. Not quite, I kept it around thinking I might use the chassis to build a better one. But I have literally not used it since 30 minutes after I got it.

When I did manage to get readings from it, they were always way too high - at least 0.4Ω - 0.5Ω, as @TheotherSteveS also said.

And I cursed myself for buying it in a rush in a B+M and not noticing it didn't have a 510 connection, just 2 x Ego with a 510 adapter. That adapter was absolute crap, it kept coming unscrewed whenever I tried to remove an atty. Eventually I tightened it down on the reader super hard with pliers. Unfortunately it turned out that the Ego port was held in by nothing more than glue, so when I tightened against it hard, it started spinning and I literally tore the wires off the connector internally.

When I opened it up I found a) a hot glue mess b) thin crappy wires going from the board to the connectors- thin enough that I'm sure they'd be adding their own static resistance to the readings c) that actually I didn't have wires attached to my resistance connector any more, because the connector had rotated in place and pulled them off their (crappy) soldering.

So yeah. Do yourself a favour for your peace of mind, chuck that thing in the bin and buy another one FastTech have a few listed and in one or two of the discussion threads for them, people have posted some comparisons trying to work out which is most accurate. None of them are really accurate, but any of them will be better than the ELeaf - and at least they have a built in 510 connector so you don't need a stupid adaptor.

Sorry I just hated that thing. Worst £10 I've spent in recent memory.

This is what I use for measuring ohms now - a Fat Daddy v3 Shorty soldered into short wires connected to 4mm gold-plated banana plugs for the DMM connection; the wires are the thickest wires that would fit in the positive pin (1.5mm shielded copper.) Actually I realised later I could have used 2.5mm for the negative connection, but ohms are so low I don't think I need bother re-doing it:

When I short the connection, the ohms read 0.00Ω on the DMM - so the 510 and wiring and connectors combined have less than 0.005Ω static resistance; the DMM displays to two decimal places so >=0.005Ω would round to 0.01Ω.

I get my Evic-VT full kit hopefully tomorrow, so I will validate the ohms readings against my DMM and against my accurate TC mods (DIcodes 2380, Evolv DNA 40).



(I really do need to make some kind of case/base for it though. Cable tie to Helping Hands kinda works but is neither the most stable, nor certainly the most stylish solution )

 

[TheotherSteveS]

FYI I have almost literally thrown my ELeaf ohm meter in the bin. Not quite, I kept it around thinking I might use the chassis to build a better one. But I have literally not used it since 30 minutes after I got it.

When I did manage to get readings from it, they were always way too high - at least 0.4Ω - 0.5Ω, as @TheotherSteveS also said.

And I cursed myself for buying it in a rush in a B+M and not noticing it didn't have a 510 connection, just 2 x Ego with a 510 adapter. That adapter was absolute crap, it kept coming unscrewed whenever I tried to remove an atty. Eventually I tightened it down on the reader super hard with pliers. Unfortunately it turned out that the Ego port was held in by nothing more than glue, so when I tightened against it hard, it started spinning and I literally tore the wires off the connector internally.

When I opened it up I found a) a hot glue mess b) thin crappy wires going from the board to the connectors- thin enough that I'm sure they'd be adding their own static resistance to the readings c) that actually I didn't have wires attached to my resistance connector any more, because the connector had rotated in place and pulled them off their (crappy) soldering.

So yeah. Do yourself a favour for your peace of mind, chuck that thing in the bin and buy another one FastTech have a few listed and in one or two of the discussion threads for them, people have posted some comparisons trying to work out which is most accurate. None of them are really accurate, but any of them will be better than the ELeaf - and at least they have a built in 510 connector so you don't need a stupid adaptor.

Sorry I just hated that thing. Worst £10 I've spent in recent memory.

This is what I use for measuring ohms now - a Fat Daddy v3 Shorty soldered into short wires connected to 4mm gold-plated banana plugs for the DMM connection; the wires are the thickest wires that would fit in the positive pin (1.5mm shielded copper.) Actually I realised later I could have used 2.5mm for the negative connection, but ohms are so low I don't think I need bother re-doing it:

When I short the connection, the ohms read 0.00Ω on the DMM - so the 510 and wiring and connectors combined have less than 0.005Ω static resistance; the DMM displays to two decimal places so >=0.005Ω would round to 0.01Ω.

I get my Evic-VT full kit hopefully tomorrow, so I will validate the ohms readings against my DMM and against my accurate TC mods (DIcodes 2380, Evolv DNA 40).



(I really do need to make some kind of case/base for it though. Cable tie to Helping Hands kinda works but is neither the most stable, nor certainly the most stylish solution )

Accurate and highly portable for the vaper-on-the-go lolol!!

 

[TheBloke]

I never leave home without it

Actually it is battery powered, so theoretically...

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I never leave home without it

Actually it is battery powered, so theoretically...

Actually it would be a good chat-up line
"Hey babe, would you like me to accurately determine the static resistance of your rebuildable atomiser?"

Beating them away with sharp sticks...off to get a multimeter... Back soon..

 

[Taowulf]

Isn't the difference to them class due to the fact the vt sets a minimum 30w? Did you try the SX at higher joules or with more preheat??

I already use the SX at 50j. As far as the temp, there is a huge difference between 450 on the SX and 450 on the VT with the same atty. Probably different approaches to doing the same thing. I've gotten to the point where I set the VT to 580 with this atty, and on the SX it is over 100F less. Go figure. Still a better vape on the VT too.

 

[akeilo]

I get my Evic-VT full kit hopefully tomorrow, so I will validate the ohms readings against my DMM and against my accurate TC mods (DIcodes 2380, Evolv DNA 40).

Im looking forward to your comparison of Evic VT vs SXK Vapor Flask : )

I have the Waidea flask and evic vt on the way, didnt go for the sxk as wanted to wait till the resistance issues resolved - really wanted a mod with Nickel Purity setting to try different type of wires. Whether SXK will take your input and fix it, we'll see - hopefully again in Vaport Flask form (love the form factor).

Holding on the SXK VF, having used Waidea VF-40 clone, I would love to hear how Evic VT compares against those.

cheers!

 

[BNEAT]

Mine has been reading the exact same resistance and vaping at the same temp as my DNA40. (that's if it doesn't mysteriously lower the resistance of my coil, which it hasn't done in over two days)

Actually, I usually have to drop it 10-20 degrees compared to my DNA,(probably because I have the eVic parked on 60watts all the time). As long as my little gremlin doesn't .... in it's an outstanding vape, and I still have no clue what is causing that. I'm still using the exact same tanks/builds/juices, but resistance is rock solid now.

 

[damped]

Mine has been reading the exact same resistance and vaping at the same temp as my DNA40. (that's if it doesn't mysteriously lower the resistance of my coil, which it hasn't done in over two days)

Actually, I usually have to drop it 10-20 degrees compared to my DNA,(probably because I have the eVic parked on 60watts all the time). As long as my little gremlin doesn't .... in it's an outstanding vape, and I still have no clue what is causing that. I'm still using the exact same tanks/builds/juices, but resistance is rock solid now.

Mine is also working very good now, I rly like the Evic but that little gremlin visited me 2 days ago again and all the .... was back, again like the moments before it happened outside the house, you should think that's a trigger to the problem especially when more ppl will confirm this but maybe it's a coincidence.
Ohms are also stable (with or without lock) and the readings are very close to my dmm and other mods.

I use it in Ti mode only and to get a good comparable vape with my Waidea Flask I need to set the temp between 550-570 at 50-60 W, a little bit high I think, I thought the Evic was fine tuned for Ti gr.1 and I use that so maybe there are differences in resistance between the gr.1 wires. Being a Taifun GT v2 fan I can only speak for this tank yet.

It's a very nice mod when it stays like this, So lets find the gremlin and kill him