Juice goes dark

[Imfallen_Angel]

I hear about sub ohm tanks but honestly havent used it because i am not too clear what exactly it is, the difference between it and my nautilus, usage wise. I mean, for some reason it sounds like its very different and i have to learn how to use it, that true?

Which is the sub ohm tank you use and recommend? If switching to it means no more dark juice and less phlegm i will seriously consider switching [emoji4]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sub-ohm, in layman's turn is for coils that are low in resistance (under 1ohm) that allows them to they heat up fast and very hot with very little ramp time. This produces warmer vape and more cloud production as it's evaporating more liquid. What will be a huge difference, is that it will consume more liquid but provide you with a much richer vape, probably more satisfying. NOTE: when sub-ohming, the nicotine transfer is a LOT stronger, so compared, you need to cut the nicotine level in your liquids usually by half.

Overall, depending on coil, tank, etc. the difference can be minor, so that you have a 0.9, 0.5 or 0.2, you may barely feel or see much of a difference, lots of hype with some that must go as low as possible. I aim of 0.2 because I use NI200 and that it s good range for the number of wraps needed, but I'm not concerned is I go with a higher range now and then. The ohm range is very important with mech mods as it could be very dangerous if you were to short or overload the battery. But with regulated mods, the computer chips does all the work for safety.

Your Nautilus is like sucking on a bent straw, with a very small coil that simply overheats to keep up with your vaping. With a sub-ohm tank with a better larger coil, the airflow is better, the coil heats more evenly. The wattage needed is a bit higher, I go from 35W to 60W max for just about anything. Even if you MTL, you can reduce the wattage and close the airflow to your preference on such tanks.

There are so many tanks that you could get several suggestions for the person's favorite tank, and honestly, it's limited.

For anyone that wants to use tanks with cartridge coils, I always recommend the tanks that are part of the Atlantis type cartridge "family"... it's a design that is very proven, as several companies have been making these cartridge coils that are near identical, which gives you a huge selection of types thanks to this.

The tanks I personally know, have and can recommend are:

Eleaf:
Melo 2 (sliding door for top fill is probably the best design in any tank)
Melo 3 (top fill is screw top)
iJust (bottom fill)

Aspire:
Triton (V1 is a lock to close flow and pop-off top, excellent design, very easy, nice metal cage tank. V2, the metal cage was removed and the top is now a screw-top, I prefer V1)

Freemax:
Scylla (push and twist top fill, neat approach, works well, and you can get an kit version that comes with an RTA, which isn't the greatest but still, it's something to test out if you want to go with RTAs)

For coils, there's a long list, but the beauty is that most are cross compatible, here's a list or other tanks that I didn't mention here and how comatible they are: https://goo.gl/r54pW0

My preference are the Vaperaso ceramic, which I end up taking apart and rebuilding

Note: all of these coils are near identical and are easily taken apart and can be rebuilt, and to be honest, every one of the rebuilds Ive done are better than factory made. I support them enough that I made a image guide about this: Vaperrasso cCell rebuilding

I'll be honest that I don't support many alternative because from forums, Facebook groups, I watch what people do use, how long, their level of satisfaction, and Vapers are a fickled bunch, what they'll proclaim the greatest thing one day, the next day, they'll be selling it, trading it, or start talking about issues they have with them.

So there's a few things that I almost went for, held off and started seeing the feedback, and that stopped me and made me stick to the well proven hardware.

 

[Two_Bears]

Ok.. first I'll be blunt and be "that guy": NO.. dry burning breaks down the metal... some use a gauge of wire that's so thick that they can't enough notice it. More research that is valid has been coming through and clearly indicates that the dry-burning thing is bad, the moment the coil get bright red (as this is what many consider dry burning), you've got yourself a layer of oxydized metal that you'll be inhaling. The metal is weakened and the coil could snap and create a short.

If you do want to clean your coils with heat, you do it at a sink and very carefully, as you heat the coil up, before you hit any colour, you rinse it under running water to wash the crap away, when wipe with a paper towel or soft rag, gently, no scrubbing, just wiping the gunk off as needed. Do not get your mod wet, and better to use a regulated one.

Wire is cheap, coils are easy to do, people need to stop treating it like a valuable commodity.

A spool of 30 feet of any wire is under 10$ can make a LOT of coils (multiple dozens), no reason to just make a bunch at one time, have them at the ready, heck, pre-cotton them too.

If you have to change them often, change liquids, go with something with less sweeteners, or switch to different metal type and/or gauge.

I tested several, and now I use Temp Control with NI200 26g and a coil (vertical) will last me a good month or more.

Sorry but you got to burn the gunk off the coil. To do that the coil has to get hot.

Been Dry burning coils since my first RDA 4 1/2 years ago.

Dry burning Nickel and Titanium wire is very dangerous.

Kanthal and Stainless Steel is nowhere as dangerous as the Nickel and Titanium.

 

[Cheallaigh]

I happen to like the kanger tanks... most of the coils are interchangeable the rbas are decent and not that hard to build on, the pro tank 4 is my current favourite with the way the filler hole at the top can be locked and so far has never leaked... and yes a coil killer juice will darken faster with too much heat. my hubby had a juice that was black in days, it seriously looked like oil... while he liked the flavour of the juice it was a use a rba or don't vape it kind and turn the wats down type.

 

[daviedog]

About a year or so ago, someone posted photos from an electron microscope of coils. Absolutely shocking what built up in 2 tanks. Even with dry burning.
Also airflow introduces new stuff, like what's in the air to the party.
Saving coils is a false economy..

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Sorry but you got to burn the gunk off the coil. To do that the coil has to get hot.

Been Dry burning coils since my first RDA 4 1/2 years ago.

Dry burning Nickel and Titanium wire is very dangerous.

Kanthal and Stainless Steel is nowhere as dangerous as the Nickel and Titanium.

If you researched metallurgy, you'd know that any metal particle being inhaled can lead to issues, you'd know that any high heat does break down metal, and that when we are talking about a very fine wire, that simply increases this.

Yes nickel and titanium is a given (that you should never heat them up very high), but for any metal, there is still issues, like it or not, dry burning does break down the metal and you are inhaling an amount of the oxides created.

Yes, vapers have been dry burning for a few years, but in 10-20 years from now, there is a chance of it resulting in health issues, and the dry burning will be one of the items used against vaping, of that, I do expect it.

So again, and not to be rude at all but... if the few pennies' worth of wire is something more important than your health, that is your choice to take that chance, but I will not recommend dry-burning to "save" a coil to anyone. I provided techniques to clean a coil with a much lesser change of contamination if saving a coil is that important to the person.

I've been living with the results of cancer for a few years now, and should anything be a chance for anyone to end up with any sort of health issues, I know how hard such a life can be, no matter how slight a chance there is and that is something that I will speak out on. I completely support vaping, but some practices are simply not good, and I'd rather aim for the most healthy approach to it as possible.

 

[SteveS45]

If the cotton in my coils burns or it tastes burnt to me it is time for a new coil. The burnt cotton worries me about the health effects it could have. I wanted to like your post @Imfallen_Angel but due to your health problems I couldn't but you are in my thoughts!

 

[ck32250]

I'm confused. The nickel is "less safe" to inhale when burnt at higher temps- but doesn't the temp control on the device negate that?

 

[David Wolf]

Am i the only one who has this issue? Or dont know how to fix or prevent?

I have an aspire nautilus tank and vape 80/20. My juice tastes good with new coil but after a day or less the juice will become dark and not taste as good.

Is it my tank? But i think even with previous tanks same thing. And i use different juices from different suppliers but same result.

Any suggestions or advices?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some backflow occurs as you vape and the flavor can get darker and harsher as your juice level gets low. My solution to that is I pour the remaining juice out when I refill and it's fresh again. I replace my nautilus coils about every three days as I have refined tastes haha. I vape 80PG/20VG.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I'm confused. The nickel is "less safe" to inhale when burnt at higher temps- but doesn't the temp control on the device negate that?

Nickel is dangerous like ANY metal if you hit it's oxidation point.

For Nickel, this is: 1,100 C / 2,012 F

For Titanium, this is: 900 C / 1,652 F

All mods temp control have a maximum of 315 C / 600F

So simply: NEVER dry burn Nickel or Titanium (make then glow red/white)

And yes, using temp control is safe with them. But it's important to set the wattage low to start when you're figuring out the settings and increase as needed.

With NI 26/28 single coils, (@ 0.2 Ohm give or take) my standard is 45W and temp setting usually starts at 420F.

 

[Alien Traveler]

Ok.. first I'll be blunt and be "that guy": NO.. dry burning breaks down the metal... some use a gauge of wire that's so thick that they can't enough notice it. More research that is valid has been coming through and clearly indicates that the dry-burning thing is bad, the moment the coil get bright red (as this is what many consider dry burning), you've got yourself a layer of oxydized metal that you'll be inhaling. The metal is weakened and the coil could snap and create a short.

If you researched metallurgy,

OK, I have "researched" metallurgy and my advice to anybody - avoid giving advices in things you do not truly understand, while trying to look like highly informed person.
1. Yes, dry burning Ni or Ti is a bad idea.
2. Dry burning kanthal is a good idea. Kanthal was created to work at temperatures of dry burning (red -orange) and even higher - up to bright white. I had found out (with the help of electron microscope) that dry burning, even at orange, does not remove all contamination. Of course it burns out all organic stuff, but non organic remnants are still clinging to a wire. I am afraid to dry burn at really high temperatures (white) for prolonged time, I am afraid to damage insulators. So, now I dry burn, scrape a coil with a blue screwdriver, dry burn again. Coil can be good for months.
3. For SS I dry burn at a bit lower temperatures (up to salmon). Theoretically SS can change its properties at temperatures of dry burning (like carbide precipitation or embrittlement, but they are not health-related). Theoretically these changes can lead to changes in temperature coefficient of resistivity. But I have not noticed any changes in practice so far.

Know Temperature when metal glows red | Hearth.com Forums Home