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juice in my battery

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zer0ith

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There are a couple of things that you could try.

1) take a paper towel and try and CAREFULLY put it in there and remove as much excess juice as possible.
2) blow out from the LED end into the paper towel
3) put said battery into a bag of rice - let it sit overnight
4) begin praying to all known gods :D
5) in the morning give it a try again
 

Charlz

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you can also clean around the hole with some isopropyl alcohol. take a qtip and work it around the post, While it is still moist, but you are positive it won't drip, you can pull of a piece and twist it up real thin and work a small tip of it into the hole. leave it till morning with the led tip off..........sometimes it's just moisture causing some surface tension on the airflow diaphragm and when it dries it will go back to normal (if it is just a drip)
 

Charlz

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I'm not sure if any of the 510 models have "sealed" auto batteries yet. It was supposed to be exclusive to only one of the kr8 vendors but they lost the exclusivity and they are not truly sealed. They just move airflow off to the sides making them resistant to the drip that happen on a daily basis, but not flooding.
Really confusing for us to be calling them sealed.

Anyway.....I'm curious about whether the battery lives to fight another day or gets downgraded to backup battery.
 

DaveP

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May 22, 2010
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I imagine that it's difficult to completely seal a battery switch that is dependent upon air flow to actuate. The only way I know is to use a sealed rubber diaphragm that actuates a switch with vacuum applied. Even those fail at some point. The actuator has to be glued or screwed to the diaphragm to sense movement.

The only vacuum switches I've been exposed to were those in electronic equipment that used a vacuum blower for a cyclone separator. It's manual ecig switches for me. The manual switch is much more reliable.
 

Charlz

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I imagine that it's difficult to completely seal a battery switch that is dependent upon air flow to actuate. The only way I know is to use a sealed rubber diaphragm that actuates a switch with vacuum applied. Even those fail at some point. The actuator has to be glued or screwed to the diaphragm to sense movement.

Not to detract from the op but that's exactly how these work, I think. No more air flow through the battery but across the connector creating the vaccuum. I've had no problem but they do need to be cleaned more........ expect to be able to recommend button pushing to noobs more down the line :p
 

zoiDman

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I had the same thing happen to me a Long Time ago with a Rev"2" CE2.

I tried all the things listed here and nothing worked. I was going to chuck it when I thought, "You Can't Break the Broken."

So I submerged the battery in 98% Isopropyl Alcohol and shook it 10 of 15 times. Blew it out and put it on the top of my Stero Reciever to dry for a couple of days.

When I remembered it, about a week later, I dialed 9-1 on my cell phone and then put my finger over the 1 as I took a hit. It worked fine. In fact, it outlasted another 510 Auto I had.

I'd ONLY recommend doing this if you are going to Chuck the Battery in the Trash Anyway.
 

mekks

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Dec 31, 2011
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i got a small drop of juice on my 510 auto battery now its not performing right i knew this was a bad thing before i got one but is there any way to get the juice out are is it forever screwed?

On my first try just over a year ago I had similar probs ended up with a couple shot batteries and other probs, didn't know about this forum at the time and ended up giving up. I do agree with those that say to go with a sealed manual one, its is definitely better.
 
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