Just For LM2596 Users

[Badical9]

So a larger wire prevents the voltage drop?? That's good to know!

 

[MorpheusPA]

So a larger wire prevents the voltage drop?? That's good to know!

Yes! The wire has resistance, which results in voltage drop (and that V-drop becomes heat in the wire).

Using something like 30 AWG wire would result in a large voltage drop, and possibly heating issues with the wire (although I'd have to run the numbers to see). Using something like 12 AWG would result in a very tiny voltage drop and you absolutely won't be able to detect any heat in it without extremely sensitive and specialized equipment.

I will never admit to cutting extension cords apart to scavenge the nice 12 AWG wires in them for other purposes. Nope, never done that. But they are so large that they do keep the heat down! Er, if I'd ever done such a thing, of course.

What the wire is made of has an impact as well, although in this case copper is just fine. Silver and gold have lower resistance, but neither is required for this purpose. It's always cheaper to just use a larger copper wire than a finer silver one.

 

[Quigsworth]

Yes! The wire has resistance, which results in voltage drop (and that V-drop becomes heat in the wire).

Using something like 30 AWG wire would result in a large voltage drop, and possibly heating issues with the wire (although I'd have to run the numbers to see). Using something like 12 AWG would result in a very tiny voltage drop and you absolutely won't be able to detect any heat in it without extremely sensitive and specialized equipment.

I will never admit to cutting extension cords apart to scavenge the nice 12 AWG wires in them for other purposes. Nope, never done that. But they are so large that they do keep the heat down! Er, if I'd ever done such a thing, of course.

What the wire is made of has an impact as well, although in this case copper is just fine. Silver and gold have lower resistance, but neither is required for this purpose. It's always cheaper to just use a larger copper wire than a finer silver one.

Yuppers, and the longer the distance, the greater and greater the resistance (like more wraps of Kanthal, higher ohms)...this is one of the big reasons why the electricity in our homes and power grid is AC not DC (Thomas Edison kinda dropped the ball on that idea)...200 vdc leaves the generation station, 2 miles away at your house you'd be lucky if you got 100 vdc (with varying voltages along the way)

 

[Balders]

What the wire is made of has an impact as well, although in this case copper is just fine. Silver and gold have lower resistance, but neither is required for this purpose. It's always cheaper to just use a larger copper wire than a finer silver one.

Ooops

Lowest resistivity
Silver
Copper
Gold
Highest resistivity

Gold is used in connectors as it's inert ie corrosion resistant. It also has a low co-efficient of friction compared to other metals - making insertion/disconnection easier

 

[rebar]

Don't know about you guys, but other than the LM2596. I had all the other supplies laying around. Speaker wire works great and there's really no need to have the volt meter. Dial it to taste then check see what you ended up with if you must know.

I fixed/reshaped the power button on the reo after I melted it. But I'm still trying to dream up a mechanical switch I could fit in a 808 tube and leave the LM2596 with the PS

also wondering about all my hobby battery packs and what kind of stealth passthru PV I could build.

 

[xMackx]

Love the thread, even though I have not read through it all. I just bought a couple LM2596's with voltmeters and can't wait to start my builds.

What gauge/awg wire is ideal? I know gauge and awg are different measurements.

 

[Java_Az]

Love the thread, even though I have not read through it all. I just bought a couple LM2596's with voltmeters and can't wait to start my builds.

What gauge/awg wire is ideal? I know gauge and awg are different measurements.

I am using 16 awg on my lm2596 right now. Going any bigger then 16 awg gives you a pretty fat cord. 18awg also works pretty well. if you have room you can go bigger but i think 16 is ideal.

 

[Koman]

Yes! The wire has resistance, which results in voltage drop (and that V-drop becomes heat in the wire).

Using something like 30 AWG wire would result in a large voltage drop, and possibly heating issues with the wire (although I'd have to run the numbers to see). Using something like 12 AWG would result in a very tiny voltage drop and you absolutely won't be able to detect any heat in it without extremely sensitive and specialized equipment.

I will never admit to cutting extension cords apart to scavenge the nice 12 AWG wires in them for other purposes. Nope, never done that. But they are so large that they do keep the heat down! Er, if I'd ever done such a thing, of course.

What the wire is made of has an impact as well, although in this case copper is just fine. Silver and gold have lower resistance, but neither is required for this purpose. It's always cheaper to just use a larger copper wire than a finer silver one.

Thanks for the explanation.

 

[rebar]

Thanks for the explanation.

I liked this part the most.. Me? Gold plated silver

I will never admit to cutting extension cords apart to scavenge the nice 12 AWG wires in them for other purposes. Nope, never done that. But they are so large that they do keep the heat down! Er, if I'd ever done such a thing, of course.

 

[xMackx]

Haven't received my LM's yet but since the voltage adjustment is by turning a screw I am wondering if it would be possible to connect a larger dial up to it.

 

[Badical9]

Haven't received my LM's yet but since the voltage adjustment is by turning a screw I am wondering if it would be possible to connect a larger dial up to it.

It totally is and is pretty easy. I got a bunch of cheap 10k linear pots and some different colored knobs to go on top, works pretty well except the adjustment isnt smooth through the range. just desolder the pot from the lm, solder 3 wires where the pot was then solder the other ends of the wires to the pot.

 

[Java_Az]

Haven't received my LM's yet but since the voltage adjustment is by turning a screw I am wondering if it would be possible to connect a larger dial up to it.

You can do it i just finished one up yesterday. Requires desoldering and ripping out the trimmer and adding a pot also a resistor might need to be added . Mine goes from 3 to 6 volts. Here are some pics of it

 

[Dothan]

I have read through this thread twice and have finally taken the plunge.. ordered and got my first two lm2596's in the mail this evening along with 2 displays. Now for the hard part, finding the right box and battery combo... I'm thinking of using lipo's but just not sure of the charging yet. I had to jumper cable a couple 14500's, the lm2596, a display and a 510 atty to play right away. Can't wait to get my first box put together...

 

[Dothan]

I built my first lm2596 mod!! nothing worthy of bothering posting a picture... just a simple Altoids box, 2 14500's and the display. But it vapes like a chimney and I'm looking at how to improve, bigger and better for the second lm2596 (most likely not the last)

 

[notsmoking]

good work..... to bad, now you have the modding fever

 

[Koman]

It totally is and is pretty easy. I got a bunch of cheap 10k linear pots and some different colored knobs to go on top, works pretty well except the adjustment isnt smooth through the range. just desolder the pot from the lm, solder 3 wires where the pot was then solder the other ends of the wires to the pot.

Good tips, thanks man!

 

[xMackx]

Still has finishing work to do. Right now I'm pondering on how to mount the panel so it comes out easy. I was thinking maybe velcro. Anyone that has any ideas for suggestion on mounting the panel let me know.

I'm glad I bought the Lm2596 with the built in display. It has a micro push button for switching between reading battery input and atty output.

 

[TomCatt]

Still has finishing work to do. Right now I'm pondering on how to mount the panel so it comes out easy. I was thinking maybe velcro. Anyone that has any ideas for suggestion on mounting the panel let me know.

I'm glad I bought the Lm2596 with the built in display. It has a micro push button for switching between reading battery input and atty output.

Get some small diameter rare earth magnets (cPath_11 | Applied Magnets : Neodymium Disc & Cylinder Rare Earth Magnets - discount wholesale prices.), mount one at each corner of your box and at each corner of the lid.

 

[xMackx]

Get some small diameter rare earth magnets (cPath_11 | Applied Magnets : Neodymium Disc & Cylinder Rare Earth Magnets - discount wholesale prices.), mount one at each corner of your box and at each corner of the lid.

That was another option I was thinking about but I was concerned because magnetic fields effect electricity. Which magnets on the link would you recommend?

 

[TomCatt]

Size would depend on how you set it up. You could get some small ones and inset them in the sides. I put one 1/8" diameter magnet in the screw holes on a RadioShack 4"x2"x1" project box (and in the cover) and that has been fine.
I wouldn't get anything thicker than the 1/16".