Just For LM2596 Users

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Dothan

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HA! I stopped in my favorite vape hang out today, I was showing the manager my mod, a couple customers started looking over our shoulders, I stopped the offers at a bit more than 4 times what I have in the mod, and I even bought all my parts at US prices.... didn't have the patience to wait on China mail :blush: I might have parted with her, but honestly she's not for sale, and it's a hobby (maybe addiction now)... I had put her together as prototype, didn't epoxy anything, just hot glued, just in case I decided to take apart and redo or reuse parts.. that proved problematic yesterday, I bummed the clearomizer getting out of my car, and broke the glue lose... I quick fixed last eve., just heating the connecter from the outside to re-stick.. I'll do better Sat.
But I did promise to build a Altoids mod for the manager once I am more a bit more comfortable that it will be solid... At under 10.00 (W/O batteries), I can be generous.
 

Badical9

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I'm almost done with my newest lm mod.

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All of my other mods have been a project box with the lm inside of it with the 510 connector in the same box. this one is a little different as you can see. I still have a few finishing touches to do before its finished but so far i like it alot. I have had problems with the device being too light and the cable being too rigid so it would pull it off the desk/ table. I found some very flexible speaker wire and used a 3/4 copper pipe brazed to a heavy washer so this baby doesn't budge no matter what!
 
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Badical9

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What type of power supply did you use? What type have any of you guys used for your vv pt's? I have only made a vv box mod with 2 900mah in series so I'm curious to see what you guys have used for power supply.

Great job by the way Badical9. :vapor:

Thanks mack!!!

I have one just like this one 12V 6A 72W Power Supply AC to DC Adapter for 3528 5050 LED Strip Light CCTV | eBay
If youre going to get one just make sure it comes with the power plug that goes into the wall because most of the cheaper ones ($6 instead of $10) don't come with it.

I got some male and female jacks and used a project box to make a dc splitter so i can power my breadboard, ecig, and anything else that can be powered off of 12 volts. All of my other pt's used these jacks but this one is hardwired throughout except where it plugs into the power supply or splitter.

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I want to thank everyone in this thread for teaching me pretty much everything I know about modding. I knew close to nothing about this stuff and if it wasn't for you guys I wouldn't be enjoying my new hobby. I recently got an Arduino and lcd shield and I want to incorporate that into a mod but the coding aspect is wayyyyy over my head. That's how I felt about all mods when I first got into it so I guess it is possible......

p.s. I just noticed in the background you can see some of the mesh from the doomed 500 mesh coop by gogo. I don't know if any of you guys were part of that but if so I hope you were one of the lucky ones who actually received yours.Thank goodness I said I was out of mesh and I couldn't wait because I received mine before Christmas. If any of you Lm regulars are in that coop and haven't received yours I can send a small amount your way, it's the least I can do for you guys teaching me so much.
 
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Badical9

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12 volts... so you could crank that baby up to 10.6 volts at 6 amps? I wouldn't let my friends play with it. lol

Haha you could if you wanted to. I put a 3.3k or 2.2k between the 2 outside leads on the pot and it limits it to 7.6ish. I have another pt that cranks up to 11.5 and accidentally took a rip. Bad idea! The wick and coil were never the same and it was really harsh. To get the full 6amps at 11.5v you would need a 1.9 ohm coil and you would be vapping at just under 70 watts hahahaha that's almost 10 times more than normal
 

whatsat

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Hey guys I have been reading through as much of this thread as I can. I wasn't able to find an answer yet to whether anyone has tried to replace the potentiometer on these. I was hoping to put a rotary style pot on in a different location depending on the box I use. I currently have one of the KIS 3r33 boards.

It seems as if the pot on it is the 3296-W204 which is a 200k ohm trimpot. I was wondering if I could remove it and replace/solder wires to the board in its place to a 200k ohm rotary. 200K Ohm Linear Taper Potentiometer Pot B200K | eBay

I am decent with a soldering iron but I am just starting to learn about modding. Thanks in advance for the assistance. I have enjoyed reading through this thread and will continue trying to catch up. If I missed the info about replacing the pots, I do apologize.
 

Dothan

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Hey guys I have been reading through as much of this thread as I can. I wasn't able to find an answer yet to whether anyone has tried to replace the potentiometer on these. I was hoping to put a rotary style pot on in a different location depending on the box I use. I currently have one of the KIS 3r33 boards.

It seems as if the pot on it is the 3296-W204 which is a 200k ohm trimpot. I was wondering if I could remove it and replace/solder wires to the board in its place to a 200k ohm rotary. 200K Ohm Linear Taper Potentiometer Pot B200K | eBay

I am decent with a soldering iron but I am just starting to learn about modding. Thanks in advance for the assistance. I have enjoyed reading through this thread and will continue trying to catch up. If I missed the info about replacing the pots, I do apologize.


based on what I found in the thread, it is very possible... all you need to do is de-solder the original pot, run three wires to your external pot. I have bought a radio shack pot, and plan to do it, but just haven't yet... nervous about the de-solder. I'm doing a pass through now, have been amazed, I have two power supplies, one 12.6 volt, the other 5.8, when I switch, the output varies .01 volts... I thought there would be a drop, but not. they are both 3.5 amp, but I haven't put a atty on it yet to be sure the 5.8 will vape well or not..
 

BryanM

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Great thread.. Got my mod thoughts going.

I ordered a few of these lm2596 step down modules off of eBay. First step... VV mod with 2 14500. Next.. A PT VV mod. After that?

Anyone have a circuit for using a DC input (from an external AC to DC converter) for charging the 14500s instead of using it for PT? Wanted to see if I could stick with those lm2596 modules and not have to get something more sophisticated.. Like a dna20. Is this even advisable? Maybe I should put that thought away.
 

Dothan

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I made my first lm2596 a month ago, and am loving it. I like the idea of the dna20, and it's small size, but am still getting my skills up to speed, if I mess up a lm, I'm our a couple bucks, a dna20, I just flushed $50 down the toilet. I'm playing with my second now and have 5 more on order. There are charging to add, I'm looking at these, just haven't got there. I have a vv mod that I bought, and love, but am observing the battery life (use rate) from it is double the lm2596. the lm2596 is lasting me at least double. I switch constantly, usually am vaping 5 devices, round robin, using about 5 10ml bottles of juice a week at the same rate. That's my reason for looking for smaller... I can't see carrying 5 altoid mods :ohmy:, actually thinking about how to wire up 2 or 3 attys on a mod...
 

xMackx

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Love my Lm mod as well. The 2 14500 trustfires seem to last about twice as long as my twist. Really glad I bought the LM with volt meter built in. It does take up extra room but seems well worth it. It did cost 5.50 but the voltmeter has an smd switch for reading battery output and atty output. Which is nice because I can tell when the batteries are close to needing a charge.
 

Quigsworth

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Hi all thinking of using 3x 18350 battery's to accommodate all the voltage loss from the board and battery drain will this be safe?

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I find the LM's respond better to higher voltage, they seem a little more stable (less relative drop and finer v out resolution at 20v + DC in)...my only pause would be stacking 3 batts...in addition to other issues, each "end to end" batt connection can be a source of v drop and all the crap associated with that...I would try and get a 3 batt series holder like this mySBe17D4URogXAhHby3D5A.jpg but obviously for 18350's (may be tough to get) but you could always cut a section out of it and mount it in you box...:2c:
 
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ebhomepc

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Thanks yes I was planning on getting a battery box and just removing all bits and fixing them into my mod box.

Second question I'm currently using a vamo with a 1.3ohms coil and running at 3.1v this is a lovely vape for me will I be able to get a equally nice vape setup without frying these boards?

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ebhomepc

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OK so I have just orders the lm2596 with build on vv in out display I have also ordered a 50g jack Daniel's tobacco tin do I need minimum of 3a momentary push button? What about a master rocker switch should that also be 3a? When all the stuff arrive I will upload pictures of my mod.

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Sovran

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The master switch doesnt need to be a 3A switch unless you are planning on holding the fire button when you turn the device on. Very little current flows until you hit the fire button. We use a 3A fire button as a equipment protection factor since you will likely never vape at 3 amps. Always over rate your hardware whether it is switch, wire or connector. The fuse is the one item you dont want over rated or it wont do its intended job.
 
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