Just For LM2596 Users

[ebhomepc]

The master switch doesnt need to be a 3A switch unless you are planning on holding the fire button when you turn the device on. Very little current flows until you hit the fire button. We use a 3A fire button as a equipment protection factor since you will likely never vape at 3 amps. Always over rate your hardware whether it is switch, wire or connector. The fuse is the one item you dont want over rated or it wont do its intended job.

OK thank you.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[BryanM]

My first mod was a simple nicostick. Reminded me a few things about soldering... and how I shouldn't solder a wire onto a metal object when it's installed in a plastic box.

Ordered up a few of these LM2596 boxes from ebay from China. Took 3 weeks to get here, so I had plenty of time to look for potential boxes.

Found this LED flashlight at Lowes


Made a few modifications:
Dremmelled out much of the plastic innards.
Removed the output wire clamps soldered onto the PCB.
Installed a slider switch between the 2 14500s and the input PCB.
Replaced the small three-way button switch, with a momentary button switch.

Result:


Thanks to everyone that posted to this thread... Got me started on this... and I have 4 more PCBs to work with.

Now just waiting on regular resistance cartos to start using higher voltage.

 

[Quigsworth]

My first mod was a simple nicostick. Reminded me a few things about soldering... and how I shouldn't solder a wire onto a metal object when it's installed in a plastic box.

Ordered up a few of these LM2596 boxes from ebay from China. Took 3 weeks to get here, so I had plenty of time to look for potential boxes.

Found this LED flashlight at Lowes
View attachment 194113

Made a few modifications:
Dremmelled out much of the plastic innards.
Removed the output wire clamps soldered onto the PCB.
Installed a slider switch between the 2 14500s and the input PCB.
Replaced the small three-way button switch, with a momentary button switch.

Result:
View attachment 194118 View attachment 194119 View attachment 194120

Thanks to everyone that posted to this thread... Got me started on this... and I have 4 more PCBs to work with.

Now just waiting on regular resistance cartos to start using higher voltage.

You know, I saw that very same flashlight the other day at Lowes and thought the same thing...nice work...love the big clear window to show all the geeky bits

 

[BryanM]

The round bottom makes it require a stand... or you can use the magnet on the back to stick it to something metal. Not such a big deal if you're using a Kanger T* or *Nova.

 

[xMackx]

My first mod was a simple nicostick. Reminded me a few things about soldering... and how I shouldn't solder a wire onto a metal object when it's installed in a plastic box.

Ordered up a few of these LM2596 boxes from ebay from China. Took 3 weeks to get here, so I had plenty of time to look for potential boxes.

Found this LED flashlight at Lowes
View attachment 194113

Made a few modifications:
Dremmelled out much of the plastic innards.
Removed the output wire clamps soldered onto the PCB.
Installed a slider switch between the 2 14500s and the input PCB.
Replaced the small three-way button switch, with a momentary button switch.

Result:
View attachment 194118 View attachment 194119 View attachment 194120

Thanks to everyone that posted to this thread... Got me started on this... and I have 4 more PCBs to work with.

Now just waiting on regular resistance cartos to start using higher voltage.

Really is worth 5 bucks getting the voltmeter built in isn't it. Those blue pcb's really do make them look nice as well. Did you drill a micro hole for the potentiometer in the window? Looks great!

 

[Dothan]

I bought the Harbor Freight light with the same thought http://www.harborfreight.com/27-led...zIjoiMi41OSIsInByb2R1Y3RfaWQi OiI0MzMxIn0=

 

[xyle666]

just got my lm2596 in the mail and this thing is pretty awesome, i do have a dna20 comming but after ordering a bunch of the lm's these things are a nice backup, very easy to install.

 

[Dothan]

I made a trip this week, decided to take my Altoids lm2596 with me to see how it would settle with TSA. I made a point of pointing it out to the agent, he looked it over, ask several questions, smiling the whole time, finally said it didn't look a thing like his wife's ego. He ask why vv, etc, then called 3 other TSA agents over to show it to them... they all liked it

 

[asdaq]

Funny stuff Dothan, they must have been towards the beginning of their shift. I have mods I wouldn't dream of carrying through security.

 

[ebhomepc]

Ok so im still waiting for my board from china lol but im thinking do i need a fuse? the board is rated max 3 amps so im thinking of getting this IN LINE BLADE PUSH ON CONNECTORS, FUSE HOLDER & FUSE 2 3 5 7.5 10 15 20 25 30 40 | eBay with 3amp fuse is this fine to use and do i put the fuse on the + wire straight after the battery and before the rocker switch? thanks.

 

[Sovran]

Always use a fuse if you can. Dont think protect the board, its gonna fry in worst case scenario. Think keep battery from overloading. A fuse will stop instances of this except for internal battery shorts.

 

[Koman]

Always use a fuse if you can. Dont think protect the board, its gonna fry in worst case scenario. Think keep battery from overloading. A fuse will stop instances of this except for internal battery shorts.

Thanks for advice!

 

[ebhomepc]

How much should the voltage loss be on load? Example I hooked up 2 stacked 18350 batteries full charge they say 3.7 but fully charged put out 4.2 so that's 8.4v. input shows 8.1v on load with a 1.8ohm Atty the output shows Max 5.1v. Also when using 2 stacked batteries what voltage on the input before I would need to charge I'm guessing 6.4?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[BJ43]

Load Voltage loss on all my LM2596 is between .2 and .3 volts. Do not charge stacked batteries unless you use a proper balancing charger.

How much should the voltage loss be on load? Example I hooked up 2 stacked 18350 batteries full charge they say 3.7 but fully charged put out 4.2 so that's 8.4v. input shows 8.1v on load with a 1.8ohm Atty the output shows Max 5.1v. Also when using 2 stacked batteries what voltage on the input before I would need to charge I'm guessing 6.4?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[ebhomepc]

Thanks for reply. I charge them together in a wall charger not in my mod OK so you say you loose .2v so how much voltage does the board take because if I have 8.4v going in and only 5.1 out on load that means I'm looking 3.3v total loss?

EDIT
On the site I bought the board it says I need 1.5 volts higher input then my desired output so I was assuming if I have 8.4v in I would get about 7.4 give or take a bit for load conditions.

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[Quigsworth]

Thanks for reply. I charge them together in a wall charger not in my mod OK so you say you loose .2v so how much voltage does the board take because if I have 8.4v going in and only 5.1 out on load that means I'm looking 3.3v total loss?

EDIT
On the site I bought the board it says I need 1.5 volts higher input then my desired output so I was assuming if I have 8.4v in I would get about 7.4 give or take a bit for load conditions.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

I think the 1.5v - 2v threshold spec is measured at it's nominal operating voltage or if you put 15v in, you can dial up the output to 13 - 13.5v...I've found the threshold V increases the lower you go in the 2596's V range (an efficiency thing?)...I typically use these with a computer ATX or Xbox psu's (12v) so the threshold isn't an issue in regards to vaping (at least what I vape at anyway )...my kid recently used one of my modules for an engineering project, he was feeding 25v into it and could get 24v out.

Keep in mind though, these aren't exactly mil spec modules, all the components are +/- 15-20% min., if by fluke all the components on one module fall on one side of the +/-, and vice/vs. on another...you get what I mean...with a module that costs a buck and a half, meh, build it, then use your meter to make sure it's safe and works, then put your meter away and go with your gut...with my RBA builds now, I could tell you what voltage the coil is getting by taste/TH

 

[BJ43]

Your question is confusing, the LM2596 is a stepdown regulator, so your voltage (in) has to be higher by at least 1.5v. So if you have 8.4v (in) you adjust with the pot the voltage out at a voltage less than 6.9v. Normal range for vaping 3.5 to 6v. this is not a voltage loss just a setting you choose. Now on that (out) setting I get a load loss of .2 to.3v. So when I vape at 5v the meter goes down from 5v to 4.8v.

Thanks for reply. I charge them together in a wall charger not in my mod OK so you say you loose .2v so how much voltage does the board take because if I have 8.4v going in and only 5.1 out on load that means I'm looking 3.3v total loss?

EDIT
On the site I bought the board it says I need 1.5 volts higher input then my desired output so I was assuming if I have 8.4v in I would get about 7.4 give or take a bit for load conditions.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Quigsworth]

The almost complete absence of load drop is what these things rock at...all except that $25 A/V metered thing, pfft, that thing is a joke, huge load/no load spread, but surprising thing is, the A meter is bang on...ah well, it's cool looking, and isn't that what it's really all about???

 

[whatsat]

After looking through most of the info on these pages I decided to try my own LM2596 project. I started with the 2 18650 in parallel DIY Case from ebay. This was the cheapest seller I could find for a quantity of one.

1pc NEW18650 Battery Case 2 Parallel Connection DIY Case | eBay

5pcs LM2596HV LM2596S DC DC Step Down CC CV Adjustable Power Supply Module | eBay

I knew that the small space at the bottom would not be enough for a LM2596 module and the switches, connectors, and voltmeter. I thought that it may be perfect for two 18350 batteries though.

​

I took the two spring from the parallel connector at the top off and pulled it out and put it on the other end of the case where the USB connector would come in and fixed it in place with some heavy duty double sided tape. That helps to give the battery area a little springiness because I wouldn't be able to get springs into it. I bent the two positive connection tabs over the top to contact my batteries(this was a proof of concept kinda build, otherwise I would have done something better than this) now they will be positive and negative instead of the two positives. Next I cut a small square out for my on/off switch and put in a larger hole for my voltmeter.

​

I used some 400 SS Mesh to put in a cover for the Voltmeter that I also purchased from a seller on ebay. I used my dremel to remove the battery supports from the center of the upper part and put double sided tape around the edges of the voltmeter hole to hold the SS Mesh in place and then positioned the meter behind it. I used some hot glue to hold it in place once it was centered in the cut out. I also put the ON/OFF Switch in place and centered it.

2 Pcs Mini 3 Digital LED DC 3 30V Blue Volt Voltage Meter Voltmeter Self Power | eBay

For the top portion I used a Black Horn Switch and 510 to eGo adapter from Madvapes. I soldered the positive from the output of the LM2596 to one side of the horn switch and then the other side of the switch the 510 adapter center and the output negative from the LM2596 to the outer portion of the adapter. I then used JB Weld Plastic Weld to lock all of that into place and secure the connector so that it would not come out.

Horn Style Switch, Black

510 Battery to eGo Atomizer Adapter

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202534...toreId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=202534988#.UWnboqPD-70

I also connected the positive and negative from the voltmeter to the positive and negative outputs of the LM2596. The rest was just finishing soldering my positive from the battery to the ON/OFF switch and then from the switch to the LM2596 positive input. Then soldering the battery negative to the negative input on the module.



I covered the 18650 case with a 3D Vinyl Carbon Fiber sticker/wrap from ebay. I got 2 different sheets 8X5 inch for about $1.00 each shipped.

3D Carbon Fiber Vinyl Sheet Wrap Wrapping Twill Weave 20cm x 12cm 8" x 5" | eBay

For the next one I build I want to find a smaller buck board. The LM2596 I purchased from ebay had the wrong dimensions listed. They had it as 24x26x12 when it should have been 48 or 46 mm wide. I had not planned on putting it in sideways and using most of the space in the top of the case for it and the voltmeter.

Also I want to add a potentiometer instead of the built in trimmer. I could mount it closer to the top where the fire button is now and put a fire button in the center on the front. Also want to use a ON/OFF/ON switch I ordered to switch between input voltage from the batteries and the output voltage. In the center position the mod would still be on but with the voltmeter display off. I do however like the choice so far so use the eGo adapter so that I can use T2s and T3s without using an adapter and plus it offsets my carto tanks from the mod so that they are easier to remove. Wish I had used a blue horn switch though to go with the blue meter and carbon fiber wrap.

Thanks to all the guys who have posted information in this thread! Without the posting of your mods and findings I would have never attempted to do this mod myself. Now I am already planning and ordering parts for the next version of this.

 

[Cavediver]

That's the one...two things about this box that irritate me...first, the cost...sure, it's unique, and super easy to build in but $7? come on...and 2nd, the USB port knock-out on the top.

but because of the sliding cover, if you fab your own tops and bottoms you can do all kinds of cool things with these...

View attachment 149705 View attachment 149706

and

View attachment 149708 View attachment 149709

Where did you find that button? That's exactly what I'm looking for! I've got a couple of these boards on order and am trying to source the rest of the parts.

Thanks
Jay

ETA: Please pretty please! (My initial post sounded like I was demanding information )