Just For LM2596 Users

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Cavediver

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I thought and did the same...but when you get the bug (and you will) of mod building a nice solid switch makes all the difference...luck and post pics when you're done

Yeah, I know.
:laugh:

Another facepalm moment this morning: last night I looked at your ebay link, not realizing it wasn't the US ebay site. The same seller offers those switches for about $7 shipped. That's much more reasonable than the $16ish from your link :laugh:
Using the key words from the item description, I was able to find the same(?) switch on Amazon and at a few other stores; the cheapest of which I found here:
SPST-N.O. Push Button Switch, Polished Metal-Marlin P. Jones & Assoc. Inc.
Their shipping runs at $10 for the first half dozen switches, and that's a reasonable deal given your prediction....

Thanks again for the heads up! Now it's off to find some eGo style connectors.
 

BryanM

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So... Here's my first pass-through. Found an "old" mac mouse and a used Dell Laptop adapter I snagged ($1.25 !!) from a thift store..

I think I went a bit overboard with the epoxy this time. Live and learn.

pt_mouse1.jpg pt_mouse2.jpg

I would've made this a regular mod, if I could find space to put a couple 14500s.. No room.
At least now I can get off of charging two 14500s every day..


I have a few other plastic boxes I've found from around electronics junkyards... but I'm thinking about going all wood for the next one (hides the epoxy pretty good).
 

xMackx

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So... Here's my first pass-through. Found an "old" mac mouse and a used Dell Laptop adapter I snagged ($1.25 !!) from a thift store..

I think I went a bit overboard with the epoxy this time. Live and learn.

View attachment 206767 View attachment 206768

I would've made this a regular mod, if I could find space to put a couple 14500s.. No room.
At least now I can get off of charging two 14500s every day..


I have a few other plastic boxes I've found from around electronics junkyards... but I'm thinking about going all wood for the next one (hides the epoxy pretty good).

Nice clear construction. I know what you mean with space, it's really tricky to pack 2 batteries in with the lm without making a monster box and still being able to get to the pot and read the voltmeter.

I have an extra LM with volt meter I have been thinking about making a passthrough (technically direct power supply) but haven't found a cheap power source I want to use yet. I might have to keep an eye open for a laptop power supply.
 

Badical9

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Nice clear construction. I know what you mean with space, it's really tricky to pack 2 batteries in with the lm without making a monster box and still being able to get to the pot and read the voltmeter.

I have an extra LM with volt meter I have been thinking about making a passthrough (technically direct power supply) but haven't found a cheap power source I want to use yet. I might have to keep an eye open for a laptop power supply.

Check ebay, you can get a good one cheap.

AC 100 240V to DC 12V 6A Power Supply Converter Adapter for LED Lights Strips US | eBay

That link was the first buy it now after searching "12v 6a power supply"
 

Cavediver

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Well, bummer.
I thought I had a couple of the boards on order; turns out I only bought one. Dunno what I was thinking...
DC to DC Buck Step Down Converter LM2596 Voltage Regulator with Blue LED Display | eBay

Anyhow, it arrived today. Damaged. One corner of the display was pressed all the way down to the board, and the entire display was shifted to the left and down (all of the pins at the top of the board are bent). The first digit doesn't light up.

Sigh.

Oh well. I've contacted the seller and will see if they'll make it right. In the meantime, I'm gonna hurry up and wait. I was really hoping to play with VV this weekend. :(
Pity party on the count of three...
 

BryanM

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Maybe this'll be the last time I post a mod in here... feel like I'm spamming.

This time, no epoxy. Drilled some small holes using a small bit in my Dremmel for screws to support the PCB. The PCB is elevated (isolated) from the inside of the tin using nylon nuts. Connectors (510 and Size N DC connector) are isolated from the tin using some old gaskets from my old reliable Baby Notta tank. Instead of soldering to these connectors, used Insulated Quick Disconnects (overheated my last momentary switch connector... resulting in flaky performance).

There's a left over wire off the momentary switch just in case I decide to pop in a fire-LED.

altoids_front.jpg altoids_inside.jpg

I like the button placement on this guy... Maybe I was just trying to preview what it's like to hold a Reo.

I really like using these PCBs because they take all of the brainwork out of the circuit.. but these ones I got are relatively large. I'm gonna have to find smaller versions of these guys (or move to another type of regulator PCB... maybe dna20).
 

Quigsworth

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I get the "can't wait to build" thing alex but seriously dude, think about what you've done...a reg that requires a heat sink if pushed, lion batts, 2-3 amps of current...in a cardboard box...that's a special level of ...?...sure your wiring looks good with the heat shrink and connectors and all but we want to see you around for future builds bud :)
 

Alexis Damianidis

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yes you are right the box made from paper is not the safest solution,I just wanted to build.
the battery is 4-shell lifepo4 2000mah,20c.
As I've read in this thread there is not need for an extra heatsink because vaping usually don't last more than 7-10 sec.is this a fact?
where I can find heatsinks and what type/model you think is the most appropriate?
 

BJ43

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What is the voltage out on this battery? The ones I've seen are 3.7V... are they in series to up the voltage? Any danger in this? I've does this for IMRs, but haven't tried it for LiPOs.

A 4 shell (cell) lipo is 14.8V
A 3 shell (cell) lipo is 11.1V

each cell is 3.7v and they are in series.
 

BryanM

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A 4 shell (cell) lipo is 14.8V
A 3 shell (cell) lipo is 11.1V

each cell is 3.7v and they are in series.
Awesome. This is great news to me... the caps on these PCBs are so large that they take up most of the space in the boxes I've wanted to use... leaving very little room for batteries. Are there easy in mod charging solutions for these?
 

BJ43

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Awesome. This is great news to me... the caps on these PCBs are so large that they take up most of the space in the boxes I've wanted to use... leaving very little room for batteries. Are there easy in mod charging solutions for these?

No easy in mod charger, you need a balancing charger.

Be very careful using these unprotected. They can be dangerous if used improperly.
 
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BJ43

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You guys have been uber helps, thanks, trying to put a little back

A link to a test done with overloading protected cells,
surprising

Test of overload trip current in 18650 batteries | BudgetLightForum.com

On the LM2596, I have been using this newer model that has the holes for the trigger switch. You can use any switch and not restricted to high amps.

New LM2596HV LM2596S DC DC Step Down CC CV Adjustable Power Supply Module | eBay

Just wire the switch to the off/on holes.

 
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