Just For LM2596 Users

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asdaq

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Quigs, talk about fast, my bubble wrapped surprise is already waiting for me, Thanks again! I won't have a soldering iron to use, so it will probably be awhile before it gets put to use. Although I did think about tapping into the power system for an e-bike that is also there for the ultimate e-combo, 'don't really hurt your lungs while you don't really get any exercise'. :facepalm:

Not really mine to mess with and the batteries are lowly nicads, and it is a dorky looking one...... More likely I'll look for a homeless laptop charger to pair it with.
 

Quigsworth

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I just find that those low power (350 watt) ATX PSU's are a really good bet...computer stores can't give them away because they're such low power but for our needs there's tons...a local comp shop I frequent (my other life :facepalm:) had 350 watt Cooler Master PSU's on for $20, serious?...you could actually disconnect the fan and just rely on the sinks...it'd last forever
 

TomCatt

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Step up module:

Hobby Dream $10.01 shipping?


eBay $12.80 w/ free shipping

35V03A.jpg


Specifications:

-Module properties:non-isolated boosting module
-Input voltage: DC/2.5V-25V
-Output voltage: DC/3V-25V(adjustable)or fixed output
-Input current :4A (MAX) (input voltage > 3 V),short time 5 A (less than 10 seconds)
-Output power(natural cooling):
10W MAX(output voltage>=3V)(e.g.:input 3.7V output 5V 2A)
15W MAX(output voltage>=5V)(e.g.:input 5V output 12V 1.25A)
25W MAX(output voltage>=12V)(e.g.:input 12V output 19V 1.3A)(e.g.:input 12V e.g.:input 24V 1A)
-Output power(forced cooling):
15W MAX(output voltage>=3V)
20W MAX(output voltage>=5V)
48W MAX(output voltage>=12V)
-Conversion efficiency: 95% (higher input voltage,higher efficiency)
-Dimension: 30(L)*19(W)*15.5(H) mm(include potentiometer)

I wonder if, with the way e-cigs are operated - a few seconds at a time, greater than 10W could be obtained.
 
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Quigsworth

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Ok, done, tested and it works...sweat pin 5 off the board, and solder a 330 ohm resistor and a small lead to it. Solder the other end of the resistor to + V in, solder the lead to one side of a NO tact switch, now solder a lead from - v in to the other side of the tact switch...LM2596 module, tact switched.

View attachment 92888

note: I only had 660 ohm resistors so I stuck 2 in parallel (or 330 ohms)

For the new LM2596 owners that want to use the low current on/off trigger function on these regs I went back and found this (I forgot how it was done myself)
 

TommyO

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Ok so this was pretty quick work as I already had a CB Mic handy and waiting for the board. it's pretty straight forward. It has a 12v cigarette plug for car/trucker use. Simple wiring job all soldered and shrink wrapped so no shorts. I also made sure the wire in the flexi cable from the plug to the mod was of sufficient gage to handle the amps and the plug has a 5amp fuse.
I do need to figure a better adjuster knob setup because the pen tube I used has already come off lol. It does however vape very well. Thank you Quigs for the board, it was fun to build something that I can use every day in the car!
:evil:



CB Mic Mod 01.jpgCB Mic Mod 02.jpg
 

Quigsworth

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Ok so this was pretty quick work as I already had a CB Mic handy and waiting for the board. it's pretty straight forward. It has a 12v cigarette plug for car/trucker use. Simple wiring job all soldered and shrink wrapped so no shorts. I also made sure the wire in the flexi cable from the plug to the mod was of sufficient gage to handle the amps and the plug has a 5amp fuse.
I do need to figure a better adjuster knob setup because the pen tube I used has already come off lol. It does however vape very well. Thank you Quigs for the board, it was fun to build something that I can use every day in the car!
:evil:




That's a cool idea...I think I might know where one of those is where I work...I think it's an orphan that used to belong to one of those monster Motorola talkies...with little toggles on it too, hmm...if you do the trigger switching mod I bet you could use the "talk" switch as your fire button...I can't really see by your pic but you may have the talk switch wired that way now or are you using another switch you added?
 

TommyO

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That's a cool idea...I think I might know where one of those is where I work...I think it's an orphan that used to belong to one of those monster Motorola talkies...with little toggles on it too, hmm...if you do the trigger switching mod I bet you could use the "talk" switch as your fire button...I can't really see by your pic but you may have the talk switch wired that way now or are you using another switch you added?
I wasn't able to use the switch in the cobra mic, I used a horn switch from madvapes then epoxy'd the original switch so it's solid, that way there's not a hole in the side.
 

Quigsworth

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I'm really looking forward at receiving the LM2596, I have a very interesting project on mind, I bought some wenge and zebrano wood, and all I'm missing atm is something to make a nice drip cup, a button for potentiometer and perhaps a sexy switch even tho i have a decent 3 amp one lying around.

Your reg went out today on Canada Post Illum...can't wait to see the woody :)
 

hificat101

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BJ43

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So I've been looking through this thread, and wonder if the mystery of swapping out the pot on an LM2596 has been solved yet? I'm wondering what value pot and resistor are going to work for this. I have 3 ordered, and I love the price as much as I hate tiny little 25 turn screws. Here are the ones I ordered:

1 of these:

1pcs DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module LM2596 Power Supply Output 1.23V-30V | eBay

and 2 of these

LM2596 DC-DC adjustable power step-down module NEW | eBay

All the LM2596 preassembled that I have bought use a 10K pot, I have replaced these with a 10k, 5k, or 3k and all work. I have not tried replacing the R as it is tiny and I don't have the eyesight or talent to do it.
 

Quigsworth

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All the LM2596 preassembled that I have bought use a 10K pot, I have replaced these with a 10k, 5k, or 3k and all work. I have not tried replacing the R as it is tiny and I don't have the eyesight or talent to do it.

I was thinking about that just last night BJ (the CB mike mod has me thinking :))...could you not just lay a solder bead over the PCB R (negating it) and go to an external R in series with the trimmer?
 
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