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Interesting news about the Staples 3D printing offering:
Interesting further information on this development:
Staples announces in-store 3-D printing service - CNN.com
"The Iris printers employ an innovative method to generate objects, using reams of paper that are cut and printed while being stacked and glued together. This technique allows for a high-resolution layer thickness of 100 microns, similar to that of the MakerBot Replicator 2, but not quite as fine as the 25-micron capability of the Form 1."
I finally got my Dremel drill press going to cut the voltmeter rectangle. I used a 1/8 metal cutting bit and it cuts like butter!!! I only did a test cut freehand so far to see how it worked but with some guides I think this is the way to go. Does anybody know if they make a chuck/ collet/ whatever its called to accept regular drill bits? I have a few of those stepping bits and i would love to be able to use it with the press. I know it doesn't have enough power to drill through tough material but thin plastic or aluminum should be no problem at all. By the way I got the press at Lowes for around 35 bucks, I'm not sure if it was on sale or not. I checked ebay and amazon last week and the cheapest I saw it for was 45. Just a heads up if anyone wants to get one!
They make both a chuck and collet set for the dremel
chuck 4486 Dremel Chuck / Model: 4486
collet set 4485 Quick Change Collet Nut Set / Model: 4485
Thanks Java, but those only accept up to 1/8 shanks. The shanks on my bits are 1/4 and 3/8. I wonder if they make a 1/8 to 3/8 adapter or something like that...
As far as i know thats as big of a chuck they make for a dremel. Really doubt it can handle much bigger and not wear out the dremel quick
Agreed, spinning a 1/4 drill bit with a dremel would make short work of it...sure we're drilling plastic, but if Dremel made something like that you know someone would try and drive 3" deck screws with it...
Ok I just got this in the mail, I ordered it a month ago and now don't remember for what. Guess I will have to build a Quig desk top,VV.
Comes in a cool tin box.
LED Voltmeter Ammeter and Power Meter DC Buck CC CV Power Conversion Module | eBay
Comes in a cool tin box.
LED Voltmeter Ammeter and Power Meter DC Buck CC CV Power Conversion Module | eBay
Cool, you know you have to leave it right there in that box right?...and if you don't, mail it to me, lol
Yep, think I will put at 3 outlets and build some pillbox PTs to plug into it.
That's a good idea...a PT manifold 
curious how accurate the power meter is going to be (or any of those meters actually)...my 2 modules with the on board Volt and Amp meters are a joke ...the amp meter is pretty accurate when I check the voltages with a real meter and do the math..and that's ok, I mostly use it for the ammeter anyway, handy when setting up new gennys...but the no load/load v drop and the on board volt meter of these modules...pfft!...I have to set it to 5.3V (no load according to the on board meter) to actually get 4.7V (no load, according to Fluke) just so I can get 4.5 load V (according to on board meter) or 4.2V (according to Fluke)...needles to say I just disregard the on board V meter...but if you do the math using the Flukes results, the ammeter is spot on
curious how accurate the power meter is going to be (or any of those meters actually)...my 2 modules with the on board Volt and Amp meters are a joke ...the amp meter is pretty accurate when I check the voltages with a real meter and do the math..and that's ok, I mostly use it for the ammeter anyway, handy when setting up new gennys...but the no load/load v drop and the on board volt meter of these modules...pfft!...I have to set it to 5.3V (no load according to the on board meter) to actually get 4.7V (no load, according to Fluke) just so I can get 4.5 load V (according to on board meter) or 4.2V (according to Fluke)...needles to say I just disregard the on board V meter...but if you do the math using the Flukes results, the ammeter is spot on
That's a good idea...a PT manifold
curious how accurate the power meter is going to be (or any of those meters actually)...my 2 modules with the on board Volt and Amp meters are a joke ...the amp meter is pretty accurate when I check the voltages with a real meter and do the math..and that's ok, I mostly use it for the ammeter anyway, handy when setting up new gennys...but the no load/load v drop and the on board volt meter of these modules...pfft!...I have to set it to 5.3V (no load according to the on board meter) to actually get 4.7V (no load, according to Fluke) just so I can get 4.5 load V (according to on board meter) or 4.2V (according to Fluke)...needles to say I just disregard the on board V meter...but if you do the math using the Flukes results, the ammeter is spot on
That's a good idea...a PT manifold
LED display value alignment potentiometer.User can refer multimeter aligning.The specific method of adjusting view with manual.
In English you can trim with your multimeter for accuracy.
Next to these trimmers are some on off holes that should work with a tack switch except I don't know why three hole. I guess I had better read the manual, lol
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Much bigger than what it looked like on ebay. Should make a cool coffee table adornment if I can convince the wife,
Using your hand as a guage...unless you're a basketball payer (or ex-porn star) that thing is massive!...I like it even more now...
I'm seeing 4-5 jacks of your choice running along the bottom edge all bussed together...and just by judging from that inductor coil and heatsink, you could run all 4-5 simultaneously
I'm seeing 4-5 jacks of your choice running along the bottom edge all bussed together...and just by judging from that inductor coil and heatsink, you could run all 4-5 simultaneously
Using your hand as a guage...unless you're a basketball payer (or ex-porn star) that thing is massive!...I like it even more now...
I'm seeing 4-5 jacks of your choice running along the bottom edge all bussed together...and just by judging from that inductor coil and heatsink, you could run all 4-5 simultaneously
All my sources are 12v 5 amp, I do have a 10amp battery charger I use to keep the boat battery charged.
Four PTs off it going to each chair around the coffee table and attractive guests could be fun, hey wife when is it you are going to Europe.
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Hello all,
I have recently decided to take a crack at modding and saw nothing but good stuff about the LM2596. I bought a 5 pack off eBay and just received them yesterday. So I had my mod all wired up and connected to the board but, all I get for an output is 1.2v. I have two 18650s, reading around 4.1v each, wired in series for a total of 8V +. My button is rated for 2A but I bypassed it with the same results. I check and have 8v + coming into the board. I am kinda stuck here and any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Different board...same results.
All of them do it, I am obviously doing something wrong.
I have recently decided to take a crack at modding and saw nothing but good stuff about the LM2596. I bought a 5 pack off eBay and just received them yesterday. So I had my mod all wired up and connected to the board but, all I get for an output is 1.2v. I have two 18650s, reading around 4.1v each, wired in series for a total of 8V +. My button is rated for 2A but I bypassed it with the same results. I check and have 8v + coming into the board. I am kinda stuck here and any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Different board...same results.
All of them do it, I am obviously doing something wrong.
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turn the pot (little blue box with a screw on it) about a million turns. If that doesnt work turn it 2 million turns the other way
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