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Itshak

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Ok, im really confused.

I'm somewhat new with my GG, but I finally got a voltage checker and I have a huge voltage drop. Without a tank, I get a reading of 3.89, with a tank, it reads 3.12. My other mods show a much less drop. I've checked and cleaned every contact point on top and bottom caps. I've disassembled every part including the switch and cleaned it too. Is this a normal drop?

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You lower positive center post of CT buy raising the inside threaded part so it will push battery more
And remove SS cover from negative center post (so you by pass spring)
That's make a big different Dan.
 

Aal_

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Ok, im really confused.

I'm somewhat new with my GG, but I finally got a voltage checker and I have a huge voltage drop. Without a tank, I get a reading of 3.89, with a tank, it reads 3.12. My other mods show a much less drop. I've checked and cleaned every contact point on top and bottom caps. I've disassembled every part including the switch and cleaned it too. Is this a normal drop?

Sent from my Note II using Tapatalk.

There's no voltage drop without load (in the orders of 0.01). So what you are getting is a result of bad connection somewhere.
 

D Stanley Querfurth

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New just gg Electr. Wheelchair Edition. Smokin with 12 volts loooool
sevy4a5u.jpg


Gesendet von meinem HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio Z715e mit Tapatalk
 

MoDmAnDaN

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You lower positive center post of CT buy raising the inside threaded part so it will push battery more
And remove SS cover from negative center post (so you by pass spring)
That's make a big different Dan.

I think I know what you mean on the CT, but do you have any images of the negetive center pin without the SS cover? That I'm still not understanding! And thanks for the help BTW!!!

And raising the threaded part in the CT brought by voltage drop up from 3.1 to 3.5, so getting much better! You were right about pushing the battery down helps!!!
 
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Itshak

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I think I know what you mean on the CT, but do you have any images of the negetive center pin without the SS cover? That I'm still not understanding! And thanks for the help BTW!!!

And raising the threaded part in the CT brought by voltage drop up from 3.1 to 3.5, so getting much better! You were right about pushing the battery down helps!!!

Here Dan,
You can see the one on the left thats how I use them,
It was recomended here by members,and does work great.
By removing the SS cap and plastic of SS cap and lowering battery.
This make the biggest improvement ever I had,even more then cleaning.
Add to that cleaning of contacts and your GG will run turbo charged all the way to southern home,
He will kick like horses do when you turn them going back to farm ;)
 

Itshak

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It is just because springs don't and never will conduct current better than solid piece. Imeo designed it this way so that we have both options.

Without this I never could stand the 18350 aal,
Now after you told me I keep telling it further.
We want all GG users to have the best expirience from there device.

it's vape great for some 3 happy hours,then I change battery.
If This can be better with VIR,that's will be heaven.

we need this western belt for 2 couple of 18350 batteries and 2 18350 mod,with the GG logo!
You here me guys ;)
 

Itshak

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Maybe we can keep the post adjusting nut of the Ithaka or Penelope
In place so it will make there center post longer then needed.

Also Ithaka suffer less with this unscrewing as it have longer center post the Ody or Iatty.

Or some solid piece can be put inside the the CT center post female so you can screw the male
And still have all soild contact,and the male will remain higher.
 

D Stanley Querfurth

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Without this I never could stand the 18350 aal,
Now after you told me I keep telling it further.
We want all GG users to have the best expirience from there device.

it's vape great for some 3 happy hours,then I change battery.
If This can be better with VIR,that's will be heaven.

we need this western belt for 2 couple of 18350 batteries and 2 18350 mod,with the GG logo!
You here me guys ;)

great idea Itshak - i need a belt too ,lol !!! did you get the new efest in 18350 yet ? they are hard to find here ...

Stan
 

Itshak

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Yeah but what I'm after is keeping the center pin inside CT and not protrude at all. So work should be done in the negative area.

Aal I'm on something,
But first I go eat supper with the family then I'll
Keep trying it but it work and give 1 mm more or less here is the picture
It look like good idea try it.

Take o ring from top of negative post put it down below plastic nut
Only the put nut.

Tell me after what you think


 

MoDmAnDaN

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Aal I'm on something,
But first I go eat supper with the family then I'll
Keep trying it but it work and give 1 mm more or less here is the picture
It look like good idea try it.

Take o ring from top of negative post put it down below plastic nut
Only the put nut.

Tell me after what you think



Not a bad idea. I'll have to try this tonight and see if it helps. So far, adjusting the CT and removing the SS cap off the negative post has improved my voltage drop quite a bit.

Sent from my Note II using Tapatalk.
 

Itshak

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great idea Itshak - i need a belt too ,lol !!! did you get the new efest in 18350 yet ? they are hard to find here ...

Stan


Only the regular IMR red once,but all working great now,
I don't feel I need more The 18350 AW and the above work great for my 1.7 ohms coils.
 

Itshak

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Not a bad idea. I'll have to try this tonight and see if it helps. So far, adjusting the CT and removing the SS cap off the negative post has improved my voltage drop quite a bit.

Sent from my Note II using Tapatalk.

It works guys,
great and even better guys,
The 18350 now push like 4 wheel drive
 

Itshak

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That's a great idea its

Just do it with no delay there's no going back.
Ct post is in place,it's screw nut almost close totally,
The negative axis secure very good,it have enough threads,to give good stable hold.

I didn't like unscrewing the positive nut but it was a must.
Now there is no reason for it,18350 is working stable and perfect,
And this will be good solution for the stealth caps users as well.
 

Itshak

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Great. So you feel the battery touching the axis to the most (you understand what I mean) with a little unscrewing the screw from CT pin?

A little unscrewing is needed still for better preformenc.
I wouldn't add more then one o ring bellow as I'm afraid the axis will become unstable on the plastic threads.
Now it's fine,if you want more without unscrewing then you can add adjustable nut on Ithaka or Pene
so it push more the CT,but I prefer it as so.
with little unscrewing you can lower CT enough
To close spring and get to the solid part of the axis.
But it's better and not like before,you have the two o rings of CT post inside The SS sleeve of CT.
 
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