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There's always more to it than just a 1.5 AC amp rating.
As I said:
As I said:
I wouldn't have mentioned it if I thought it was crap. It served me well and you have a spare at that price. It was still working fine after 8 some months of use when I retired the PT. It is now been moved to my breadboard for circuit testing.
fair enough. you'll have to forgive me as my knowledge of amps and volts is limited.
No it's good question, and many of these cheap switches often suffer from sample to sample variances. Your mileage may vary.
Looks like the same switch as on this 5V $100+ mod (when I asked he defected the question).
Mine starts loosing power too under an extreme load. It's a built in feature for protection against shorts. It you draw too many watts they cut out.
It is the USB port thats protected if you hook up to the orange and gray connectors it wont cut out. What i did with mine was i wrapped a wire around the varistor so i can use the USB port on high amps/watts without cutting out. It is that little blue disk right in front of the USB.
glad i was pointed to this thread. made mind. vapes like a smoke stack.
i'm gonna be throwing a pretty lenghty how to vid together sometime this week, since my friend wants me to make her one too.
tho whoever said a 5V == 2amp power supply works. it doesn't, it barely juices the atty. but if u directly put it in ur usb it rocks the house.
i'm gonna be throwing a pretty lenghty how to vid together sometime this week, since my friend wants me to make her one too.
tho whoever said a 5V == 2amp power supply works. it doesn't, it barely juices the atty. but if u directly put it in ur usb it rocks the house.
They work and work quite well. What kind of loaded volts were you getting? Did you check all your connections with a meter? If it "barely juices the atty" you have done something wrong. No commercially available e-cig battery comes even close to providing 2A.
A 5V@2A power supply will power a Joye 510 at about 4.2V (a significant step up from commercial e-cig volts) and any atty over 2.6Ω at a full 5V (theoretically, in actual use the numbers may swing just a bit).
I suggest you spend some time with your your multimeter and Ohm's Law.
Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
If the PT works fine on USB, that power supply is probably fried/bad and not putting out the volts/amps it is supposed too. Get another PS. May wish to pick up a cheap multimeter while you are at it just for playing around with this stuff. Some examples:
http://www.madvapes.com/2-amp-AC-to-USB-Adapter-ideal-for-Passthroughs_p_2357.html
http://www.madvapes.com/Digital-Multimeter_p_2742.html
P.S. I don't suggest you keep using the direct PT on a computer's USB, but that's me. Good luck!
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Built myself a passthrough a while back (on it now....LOL) using a 1AA battery box, 3A regulator with control pin and tactile switch. I also use mine off of powered USB hubs. As a former computer business owner I cringe when I hear people plugging in their PTs (fans, hot plates, disco lights, lava lamps, plasma balls, air conditioners, Star Wars Talking Yoda, woot! lights (ok ok...guilty on that one), nuclear reactors....) into their computers.
So I have read from many of you that our DIY PT's shouldn't be plugged in, but does this hold true for commercially obtained PT's? since I haven't taken one apart, I am not aware of their contents "under the hood" so to speak.
I simply regard computer USB ports as computer related device connections and data throughput. People can do whatever they want. I'm pretty good at building electronics but I'm still not going to plug it into my pricey gaming rig or any of my laptops when I have cheap powered hubs available. In fact, I recently killed a 2000ma car adapter with my passthrough (still working fine on a hub). Granted, that car adapter was cheap as cheap can be but it worked fine charging my DroidX for the past few months.
The ones with a battery in line are pretty safe to use on a computer when you vape it pulls the amps off the battery. The USB just keeps the battery charged. 5 volt PT require more amps then a USB port is rated for. I look at it this way. Why use my 1300 dollar computer to power my PT when i can get a 10 dollar 2 amp USB hub to power it. If i fry a 10 dollar hub not to big of a deal. But if i fried my Computer i would be cussing for weeks.
I do power my battery card off my computer power supply , but that is directly off of it and also it is a 12 volt rail thats rated @ 22 amps. USB the power is going threw the motherboard from the power supply . If using a LR atomizer or vaping at 5 volts it puts a pretty good strain on the motherboard traces. even if they are commercially made 5 volts or 3.7 volts the load is still going to be there. Alot of folks report there computer acting strange or even going out after vaping off the USB port for awhile. So the safest bet is get you a USB powered hub at least 2amps or wall adapter thats at least 2amps
or you could do like i do and use a laptop the turns on, but the hard drive's smoked, so i really don't care if i hurt it.
drives are cheap...operating systems aren't. and i'm not very computer savvy since everything's through windows now. if life was still DOS based, i'd be just fine.
Doesnt get any cheaper then putting linux on as a OS. Pretty user friendly these days too. Also depends on the laptop, i got a old PII sitting here thats like 300 mhz. Not even worth the price of a drive that would go in it. Hell it is so old i dont even think there is a USB port on it. Thinking about putting it on Craigs list for 10 bucks maybe a historian will want it.
I'm actually sitting next to an old 300mhz Compaq running WinME. Why? Because it has a serial port....LOL. I use it as a backup for our telephone conference controller. Until last month I had forgotten I even had it.
At any rate, if that laptop has a Windows sticker on the bottom, that's still legible, it has an OS.
At any rate, if that laptop has a Windows sticker on the bottom, that's still legible, it has an OS.
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