Just got my second AGA-T+ up and running....

[Wesley Tyler Robinson]

So, I started using my first Genesis atty a few weeks ago. I hated the thing at first because I couldn't get it to work, even after days of tinkering and hours of watching videos. I almost gave up... until I got my first T+ going right for a few minutes. I wasn't satisfied until I could rebuild it to constantly work like I got it going for a few minutes. So now I have my first T+ going with Kanthal ribbon wire (about 3 or 4 wraps). It tastes great! I made the wick a little hollow, but wrapped the coil with the wick placed in the wicking hole. My only problem is I have to tilt it (which I'm okay with) and leave the fill screw out, otherwise it does not wick properly.

Fast forward to my second T+. This one, for whatever reason, has an extra fill screw. I don't understand that. Could someone explain? Anyways, I cut, oxidized, and hand-rolled a solid U-wick and utilized the extra fill hole. I wrapped about 3 or 4 wraps with 28g Kanthal wire and got it kicking after messing with a few hot-spots. It was wicking amazingly well, so I put the fill screw in and it was still wicking well. The problem is, even with the U-wick, I'm still getting dry-hits while tilting if I take about a 6 or 7 second draw on it. Should I take the fill screw out? What is going on here? the top and middle coil light up quickly, the bottom lights up shortly after.

Also; Why will none of my vv/vw devices even read the resistance? It gives me the short error of 9.99ohms. Any ideas? Is it possible that I have shorts in both of them but the coils are still vaporizing correctly? Maybe I don't understand how a short works....

Any help, suggestions, advice, would be appreciated. Thanks!

Ohh, and I had an awesome idea that I tried that worked as far as the aesthetic value of the T+; I torched the cap of one of them until it has become a solid gold/brass color all the way around, and torched the other's cap until it was a dark gun-metal color. Pretty amazing if you can muscle up the courage to take a torch to the cap of your genesis atty... Worked for me.

 

[Topher36]

Not sure that I can muster the courage to torch my device. I have two AGA -T's as well and both mine have similar top decks to yours. I think it is some people sold an older version of the AGA T called the tiamat but it came with the glass tank and possibly the plastic one as well. If your vv/vw arent reading the ohms. It may be that your ohms are to low for the device. Not sure never ran into that problem. Also more info on what mods you are using may help people tell you what your problem is. My desire for a better vape off of RBA's has led me to the solid conclusion, that at that low a resistance, you may want to look into a fully mechanical mod and bypass vv/vw all together. Hope that you find your answer as I am sure, with me being newer to the RBA's I don't have all the answers. Happy vaping.

 

[Wesley Tyler Robinson]

It is well worth the torching, I promise. Especially if you have a normal, plain metal mod like mine... it adds a little aesthetic value.

I test the resistance on my VAMO and Zmax, but I do have a fully mechanical mod on which I fire my Gennys on which is the Natural.

 

[Topher36]

Can the natural keep up at sub ohm levels?

 

[Rule62]

Can the natural keep up at sub ohm levels?

Yes it can. The Natural is a solid mechanical, at a good price. Nothing special to look at; but it works.

 

[jharres]

Yes it can. The Natural is a solid mechanical, at a good price. Nothing special to look at; but it works.

Just be sure you have the right batteries. Make sure they are IMR/high drain batteries that can push decent amps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Rule62]

Just be sure you have the right batteries. Make sure they are IMR/high drain batteries that can push decent amps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

The only thing I did to my Natural, which I would recommend doing, is to take it apart; and sand the chrome off the top and bottom screw heads, as well as the bottom post. The parts are brass beneath the chrome. It's only a 5 or 10 minute job.

 

[Wesley Tyler Robinson]

Can the natural keep up at sub ohm levels?

Yes. It is a fully mechanical mod. And I am using efest 800 MAH, 3.7v batteries.

 

[Wesley Tyler Robinson]

Can I find a picture description of this anywhere Rule? Are we talking about sanding the chrome off of the battery contacts? I guess I am confused...

 

[Rule62]

Can I find a picture description of this anywhere Rule? Are we talking about sanding the chrome off of the battery contacts? I guess I am confused...

The battery contacts are both flat head screws. They are chrome plated brass. There is also a rod below the negative contact which the side switch touches, when the switch is pressed, completing the circuit. This rod is also chrome plated. All of these parts are accessible when the mod is disassembled. All mechanical mods can be taken completely apart. After disassembling the mod, any parts that are in the electrical path can be sanded to remove the chrome plating.

 

[Topher36]

Thanks for answering my questions. I wanted one but was unsure if it would keep up. Thanks agsin

 

[beanpusher]

The battery contacts are both flat head screws. They are chrome plated brass. There is also a rod below the negative contact which the side switch touches, when the switch is pressed, completing the circuit. This rod is also chrome plated. All of these parts are accessible when the mod is disassembled. All mechanical mods can be taken completely apart. After disassembling the mod, any parts that are in the electrical path can be sanded to remove the chrome plating.

great tip rule...better conductivity,

as for the OP i would run without the fill screw, when u experience the top coils lighting it's an indication of bad wicking, normally when i first start to vape from between vaping sessions i preheat the wicks by pulsing to warm the juice up a bit. also blowing into the fill hole puts some positive pressure into the tank giving the aid to the capillary action. with all genesis atty's the necessity to do the tilt is inevitable. something we all get used to. i hope that helps out. also the extra fill hole is an option i wish i had gotten with mine.

 

[BrokenLung]

No more dry hits with long draws



After watching the video I enlarged my wick holes. Seriously the single best thing I have ever done with my AGA.

 

[Wesley Tyler Robinson]

Rule,

I am a tad slow so I apologize for having to ask; is there a tutorial on what is best and easiest on how to do this? Do I just get sandpaper and disassemble my Natural?

BrokenLung,

Great suggestion! Is that wick hole just drilled out to 100mm?

 

[Rule62]

Rule,

I am a tad slow so I apologize for having to ask; is there a tutorial on what is best and easiest on how to do this? Do I just get sandpaper and disassemble my Natural?

BrokenLung,

Great suggestion! Is that wick hole just drilled out to 100mm?

I don't know of any videos. There may be. I don't know. I just use sandpaper, and run the screws back and forth across the paper. It only takes a few swipes for the chrome to be gone.

 

[BrokenLung]

That wick hole is drilled out to 4mm. I drilled mine out to 3.5mm and you can easily fit 100mm of wick (100mm is the length of SS rolled up to make the "girth" of the wick where as your wick needs to be about 35mm tall to go from near the bottom of the tank to where you want to wrap the coil. Hope that helps.