just got my vaporshark ni200 coils.

[dulltongue]

"Temp Protected" means it's working. If u look at the display while vaping u will see that your wattage fluctuates while vaping. U getting a good cloud? Tasty vapor? No burnt and or dry hits? Then it's working. Wattage seems to play a backseat to the TC with this one it seems. Don't be afraid to play with it man, switch out the TC coil with one of ur usuals, set the wattage the same (bearing in mind TC wont work) and see how the difference is...

 

[druckle]

I just received Ni200 OCC coil heads for the Subtank from Vapor Shark and popped one in a 25mm Subtank for a side by side comparison with a Ni200 build in the Subtank RBA. I get the impression that the factory Ni200 head fires a little hotter than the RBA when set to the same 410 F limit temperature. Not 100% sure about this yet. I'm wondering if the longer leads run hotter than the coiled section because there is less juice and air flow to cool them or if they effectively run cooler than the coiled section since each turn of the coil gets a little heat boost from it's next neighbor. Anyone have an opinion (or facts) on this?

 

[druckle]

OK, I spoke too soon. I seem to have problem with the Ni200 Kanger OCC heads. When properly primed and screwed into the 25mm tank all is well but vapor production decreases over time and temperature protection comes on more and more often. I tried a second NI200 head and got the same results...switched the tank with the Ni200 heads to a different DNA 40 device and the same thing happened with both of the Ni200 heads. BTW I also reduced the air from two holes to one hole and that didn't seem to help. Blocking the air entirely and giving several hard draws helped a little but only for a little while. Seems like for whatever reason the cotton in these particular two heads is not wicking properly. I've never had this happen before with the standard 0.5 ohm or with 1.2 ohm OCC heads. I can't imagine what the problem could be with the cotton wicking in these two Ni200 coils but it is frustrating. I'm not going to go through all five heads in the package tonight but likely will do that little bit tomorrow. For now I've replaced the Ni200 head with a 1.2 ohm head that I removed to try out the nickle and all is well again. I don't expect that this is going to be a long term problem with the new Ni200 coils but I sure wish I knew what in the world the problem with the cotton in these could be.

 

[V43L1N]

OK, I spoke too soon. I seem to have problem with the Ni200 Kanger OCC heads. When properly primed and screwed into the 25mm tank all is well but vapor production decreases over time and temperature protection comes on more and more often. I tried a second NI200 head and got the same results...switched the tank with the Ni200 heads to a different DNA 40 device and the same thing happened with both of the Ni200 heads. BTW I also reduced the air from two holes to one hole and that didn't seem to help. Blocking the air entirely and giving several hard draws helped a little but only for a little while. Seems like for whatever reason the cotton in these particular two heads is not wicking properly. I've never had this happen before with the standard 0.5 ohm or with 1.2 ohm OCC heads. I can't imagine what the problem could be with the cotton wicking in these two Ni200 coils but it is frustrating. I'm not going to go through all five heads in the package tonight but likely will do that little bit tomorrow. For now I've replaced the Ni200 head with a 1.2 ohm head that I removed to try out the nickle and all is well again. I don't expect that this is going to be a long term problem with the new Ni200 coils but I sure wish I knew what in the world the problem with the cotton in these could be.

Same experience, they worked great at 450/28w for about 10 minutes. After that, two second pulls even at 20w instantly kicks the temp protection. Flavor and vapor production is non existent after the first ten minutes or so. 4 out of the 5 in my pack have been used, all with the same results.

Tried a 50/50 blend, with the hope that wicking may be the issue, same results. Really disappointed in Kanger and Vaporshark for selling a product that was obviously not ready for the market... In other words folks, don't waste your hard earned cash on these coils!

 

[Cloudhound]

Same experience, they worked great at 450/28w for about 10 minutes. After that, two second pulls even at 20w instantly kicks the temp protection. Flavor and vapor production is non existent after the first ten minutes or so. 4 out of the 5 in my pack have been used, all with the same results.

Tried a 50/50 blend, with the hope that wicking may be the issue, same results. Really disappointed in Kanger and Vaporshark for selling a product that was obviously not ready for the market... In other words folks, don't waste your hard earned cash on these coils!

Have you tried rebuilding on the stock heads yet? I know that defeats the purpose of buying them, but I guess I'm asking if the same problems are occuring with a rebuild.

 

[V43L1N]

Have you tried rebuilding on the stock heads yet? I know that defeats the purpose of buying them, but I guess I'm asking if the same problems are occuring with a rebuild.

I have not. I like to keep pre-built stuff around for when I travel for work, I usually wrap my own coils for drippers and RTAs while im close to home. The RTA section built at .12 with 30g vapes like a champ at the same settings. I'm really hoping Kanger gets these issues worked out!

 

[Wilazn]

Damn, good thing i read this. I was about to buy a pack.

 

[Cloudhound]

Yeah, it's a shame they're performing so badly. I'm sure they'll work it out after a lot of consumer money wasted.

 

[congaman]

Same issue here. I bought two packs from VaporShark. Installed one in my Subtank mini, registers on my VS rDNA @ .19 Took it out and installed it on my 25 mm Subtank, came out at .14 Temp protection comes on constantly. I finally set the temp to 500f @30 watts and the temp protect stopped coming on after every hit but vapor production sucks and not getting much flavor at all. I'm scratchin' my head on this one. Put my 1.2 kanger kanthal coil back on the mini and the mini back on the VS rDNA (temp off), comes in dead on 1.2 ohms, great flavor and nice clouds. Really starting to regret going with this whole temp protect, Ni200 Kanger coil thing. On a side note, ordered a pk of .05 Kanger replacement coils from VS about 2 weeks ago, they sent 1.2 coils, called VS, said they would check and get back with me via email, been almost a week now, nary a word from VS. I guess now that the've become big time customer service goes out the window.

 

[Marc411]

I just rebuilt one of my heads with 28ga titanium 5 spaced wraps at .66 ohms. It's vaping pretty well at 390 degrees at 12W using the two hole air flow. Temp control kick in after about six seconds and then the TC bumps on and off giving a decent pull.

I'll see what the coil does in the morning.

 

[congaman]

Yep. I just build a .20 coil with 28 ga nickel wire on a Lemo Drop. 400degrees @ 18 watts. Temp control not flashing, great flavor, good vapor production.

 

[fragger56]

You guys are all running your nickel heads way too hot and way too high, thats probably why you are getting good hits for a while then crappy hits.

I've been running my subtank with the new ni200 heads at 25 watts MAX, with the temperature limit set around 400° and even if I set it up to around 450° when temp control kicks in it settles around 15-16 watts, so why set your DNA any higher.

Plus this thing still chucks at the lower wattages, I mean its a single coil head FFS

Currently I'm vaping some Space Jam Astro 3mg with the TC set at 410° with my box set at 16 watts, its tasty and produces alot of vapor, if you guys are running 450°+ and 30w+ I'd expect you guys to be getting horrible tasting hits...

IMHO the 20-45w rating on the heads is a bit off, should say 30w MAX

BTW

Seeing the temperature protected notice isn't a bad thing, it means your DNA40 is doing its JOB

 

[V43L1N]

You guys are all running your nickel heads way too hot and way too high, thats probably why you are getting good hits for a while then crappy hits. I've been running my subtank with the new ni200 heads at 25 watts MAX, with the temperature limit set around 400° and even if I set it up to around 450° when temp control kicks in it settles around 15-16 watts, so why set your DNA any higher. Plus this thing still chucks at the lower wattages, I mean its a single coil head FFS Currently I'm vaping some Space Jam Astro 3mg with the TC set at 410° with my box set at 16 watts, its tasty and produces alot of vapor, if you guys are running 450°+ and 30w+ I'd expect you guys to be getting horrible tasting hits... IMHO the 20-45w rating on the heads is a bit off, should say 30w MAX BTW Seeing the temperature protected notice isn't a bad thing, it means your DNA40 is doing its JOB

I'm glad you're enjoying the Ni200 coils! I tried lower wattages (15-20w), and lower temps (300,325,350), it didn't seem to make a difference.I truly believe the wicking needs to be sorted out on these coils. What is the pg/vg ratio on the juice you are using?

One thing I noticed with the VS Ni200 coils, they seem to have used a smaller diameter insulator. Not sure if this makes a difference, may be required for the Ni200 to read properly. (I know the insulators are different colors.)

I build my SquapeR at .15-.17 with 30g ni200, and run it around 450/32-35w with no issues at all.

 

[congaman]

fragger56, you make a good point but i've been running the kanthal heads at 5-10 watts below their max (0.50 @25 watts-1.2 @20 watts) with no issues at all and great flavor and vapor so, naturally, i was thinking the Ni200 heads could be run the same with no issues. I think my main concern is the ohm reading coming in at .19 and then the same coil head coming in at .14 when i switched it to my Subtank 25mm, both on the same VS rDNA 40. Seems strange, the kanthal head readings are spot on and 1.2 and 0.50 respectively. Is there supposed to be some kind of wiggle room variances on the Ni200 ohm readings?

 

[Marc411]

The titanium settled in at .60Ω and I vaped it for a couple hours and it was a decent vape but nothing outstanding. TC kicked in but pulsed on and off giving me pretty decent hits.

I grabbed a second head and did a NI200 build on a 3mm jig. 7 wraps of 30ga came out to .27Ω when I put the new head in the tank.

Using the 3mm jig is great because it's the size of the openings on the head and it holds a decent size wick. I pull the tails fairly tight and the coil held it's shape well for 30ga and was pretty easy to wick.

I'm running the 7 wrap (spaced) at 380 degrees, 14.4W. I adjusted the wattage down to just below where the TC would kick in and it's a pretty damn good vape.

 

[JRohrer]

I have not had any issues with the ni200 heads. When using tempature mode you need to change how you use watts. In normal mode, watts is how much power you throw to coil, but in temp mode it's more of how fast you want the coil to get to max heat. I find that in temp mode I usually vape at much lower watts.

 

[fragger56]

If you guys are having issues with fluctuating resistance I think thats related to most if not all DNA 40 mods having a spring loaded center pin and the fact that the center pin in the subtank is a floating pin that only has a grommet holding it against the bottom of the coil head.

In my case I've been running my subtank on top of my vulcaniser (has a solid mounted fixed pin) which puts extra compression on the 'intermediate' pin on the bottom of my subtank which guarantees a good solid connection.

When my ni200 head was new it sat at 0.14 ohm and now its settled at 0.12 and is rock solid when my subtank is mounted on my vulcaniser, if i mount it directly to the FDV 510 connector on my DNA40 box, I start running into resistance fluctuations.

Another issue I've noticed is since almost all DNA40 boxes have brass center pins is that the TINIEST amount of oxidation will cause resistance changes, I've had to take a cotton swab and a drill and polish all my non SS pin devices and the center pin on my DNA40 at least once a month to keep my device running at 100%

Btw this is on a 1st gen production DNA 40 board, which will "glitch out" if the restance fluctuates too much, ever since I started polishing all the copper/brass in the current path I've had zero glitches and perfect TC.

IMO untill we see manufacturers of temperature controlled devices start selling devices with all stainless 510 connectors there will be a significant number of users who either don't care enough to properly maintain their equipment to the level required for reliable TC operation or simply don't understand the amount of extra work these devices need to run at 100%

Honestly every DNA40 or any new device with TC going forward should have a decently sized instruction manual outlining all this stuff that I've had to figure out on my own...

 

[SissySpike]

I
Honestly every DNA40 or any new device with TC going forward should have a decently sized instruction manual outlining all this stuff that I've had to figure out on my own...

Ha this stuff never comes with decent instructions ;-) first of all we need to know what temp the juice gets burned and then the cotton ext..... I tried NR coils in the Kanger sub and honestly was not to impressed I do how ever really like using nickle in my Kayfun Just like the rest of vaping products this will improve quickly vapors are always tweaking and pushing the envelope so Im interested to see how this will make things better.

 

[Drago1919]

I have not had any issues with the ni200 heads. When using tempature mode you need to change how you use watts. In normal mode, watts is how much power you throw to coil, but in temp mode it's more of how fast you want the coil to get to max heat. I find that in temp mode I usually vape at much lower watts.

What a great way to describe how watts work with them. I haven't had any issues with mine either.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[druckle]

OK, I spoke too soon. I seem to have problem with the Ni200 Kanger OCC heads. When properly primed and screwed into the 25mm tank all is well but vapor production decreases over time and temperature protection comes on more and more often. I tried a second NI200 head and got the same results...switched the tank with the Ni200 heads to a different DNA 40 device and the same thing happened with both of the Ni200 heads. BTW I also reduced the air from two holes to one hole and that didn't seem to help. Blocking the air entirely and giving several hard draws helped a little but only for a little while. Seems like for whatever reason the cotton in these particular two heads is not wicking properly. I've never had this happen before with the standard 0.5 ohm or with 1.2 ohm OCC heads. I can't imagine what the problem could be with the cotton wicking in these two Ni200 coils but it is frustrating. I'm not going to go through all five heads in the package tonight but likely will do that little bit tomorrow. For now I've replaced the Ni200 head with a 1.2 ohm head that I removed to try out the nickle and all is well again. I don't expect that this is going to be a long term problem with the new Ni200 coils but I sure wish I knew what in the world the problem with the cotton in these could be.

OK guys I spoke at length with Vapor Shark who said they had a 1 1/2 hour conversation/meeting with Evolv about the poor performance of the Kanger Ni200 OCC heads. My musings about cotton and wicking appear not to be the problem.Vapor Sharks says that Evolv has told them that the problem is inconsistent contact resistance. They also said that they have a lot of customers who are very unhappy.

I also contacted Phil Busardo and he says that he had exactly the same problem with the pre-production Ni200 OCC heads in China and has had the same problem with the production heads after returning to the U.S.

The Vapor Shark supervisor I spoke with said his wife has had the same problem and that he uses only Kanthal but he also has had occasional issues with Kanthal. I have never had an issue with Kanthal and I expect that is because the changes in contact resistance which are occurring is unimportant when the device is not being controlled by the coil resistance.

It looks to me that the Kanger Ni200 heads are not going to be reliable unless Kanger can change the way the wire makes contact with the positive and negative connections of the head. If anyone is interested in further details on my investigation I'd be happy to help in any way I can. Just send me an email.

Oh...Vapor Shark said that they would refund the costs of the unopened 5 head package but can't refund on the 5 bad heads I tried. I understand that but in this case I think they might be making the wrong business decision. At least they are going to forward a mailing label. They seem to be good guys caught in a terrible fubar on Kangers part.