Kamry K100

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div

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after a few battery changes quickly (see I like the igo-l with it) I moved on to 18650, lasts me 2 days.
Just started having a prob though with the k100. It's the the igo-l, or old battery. The firing pin doesn't seem to make contact...going tighter or looser doesn't help. It started just fine but then I lock it and put it down...pick it back up, unlock and won't fire. Test the igo and nimbus on my spinner and it fires..so maybe it's the spring?
edit: my ohms on the igo-l is .5 or .7
How often do you switch through ur 18350 batteries for lets say 1 day? And what ohms is ur igo l on?

Im highly considering getting the k100 for my first mech mod along with an Igo L for my first rda!! Super stoked, as I have been using cartomizers for as long as I can remember and the taste and vape production just ain't cutting it anymore!

I have 2 18350 efest IMR's that I used to use on my Vamo (which is now broken) and don't really wanna use the k100 in long mode (18650)!
 

div

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Yeah...but so mysterious too. The nimbus worked on my spinner, that is why I thought is was the k100 pin and or spring. Just after that I guess the coils konked out. Will recoil and see if I can get it going again.
Don't feel bad man. I miss THE most obvious things all the #(@! time.
 

zipflint

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I'm having trouble with my Squid RDA dripper on my K100 at the moment. I'm sure it's my build and not the device. I've got 6 (or was it 8?) silica wicks crammed into this little thing. Ohm'd out to 1.1 so I figure once it soaks the juice for a while I should be good. Right now all I get is gurgling and burnt taste.
 

Vego

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I'm having trouble with my Squid RDA dripper on my K100 at the moment. I'm sure it's my build and not the device. I've got 6 (or was it 8?) silica wicks crammed into this little thing. Ohm'd out to 1.1 so I figure once it soaks the juice for a while I should be good. Right now all I get is gurgling and burnt taste.

Have you vaped the juice you're getting the burnt taste with before at @ 1.1ohms and whatever voltage you're at? I'm just wondering if that particular juice is prone to burn at higher wattage? Unless part of the silica has burned (maybe cheap silica)? Usually there's no hot spot issues with silica wick to cause burnt taste, though if the coil is touching the deck or either post, it might be causing a short just the same. Good luck.
 

Vego

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Hey K100 users, has anybody ever been inclined, one way or the other, to pop off the press-fit cap on the k100? I've become leary of press-fit caps on mech mods, as China seems to like to hide wires underneath them. Not that I'm having any problems with my k100 - it rocks really good... just wondering. To be sure, I'm not asking anyone to be a guinea pig and do it, as I won't do it myself for no reason. Just wondering if anybody's already been there.
 

zipflint

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Yeah I have. It could very well be a short. I was rushing to finish before some family members got here for Father's Day and got sloppy. I was honestly shocked that it Ohm'd where I was aiming (I usually shoot for 1.3-1-8 and get 2+) so it could also be that that's just too much voltage. I haven't had a chance to take the Squid apart to inspect it yet either. It's gonna be a hot mess and there are tiny terror toddlers about, heh. :laugh:

Have you vaped the juice you're getting the burnt taste with before at @ 1.1ohms and whatever voltage you're at? I'm just wondering if that particular juice is prone to burn at higher wattage? Unless part of the silica has burned (maybe cheap silica)? Usually there's no hot spot issues with silica wick to cause burnt taste, though if the coil is touching the deck or either post, it might be causing a short just the same. Good luck.
 

zipflint

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Yes, you can assume that, although I know I shouldn't be. I had built a multi wicked (but single coil) squid setup to go in my....squid clone and it Ohm'd out to 1.1. Burning. So I took that off and have just been enjoying a 2Ohm carto with the nifty drip shield and matching drip tip that came with it. No, it's not the most flavorful vape ever but this thing is just fun to use, especially in shorty (18350) mode. :)

Thanks. Can I assume you are using yours without one with no problems? Antone have any thoughts on the protection chip?
 
Yes, you can assume that, although I know I shouldn't be. I had built a multi wicked (but single coil) squid setup to go in my....squid clone and it Ohm'd out to 1.1. Burning. So I took that off and have just been enjoying a 2Ohm carto with the nifty drip shield and matching drip tip that came with it. No, it's not the most flavorful vape ever but this thing is just fun to use, especially in shorty (18350) mode. :)

Thanks for answering so quick, really appreciate the feedback. What exactly is the protection chip and any idea where I can get one? I vape between 1.5 and 2.5 ohms @ 3.7 to 4 volts, do I need one?
 

zipflint

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Sure, I'm happy to help. I'm usually the one ASKING for help, so I hope I'm actually BEING helpful this time. Y'know, tryin' to give back to the community and all. :)

Anyway. Safety fuses attach with a magnet to the bottom (negative) end of your battery. You put the safety fuse (search ECF for "2 cent fuse" or "holocron" just to name a few off the top of my head) on yr battery, then put the battery in the mod. The idea is that if there is a hard short or some other catastrophic failure of the battery that fuse will interrupt the connection. Sorta like yanking out the battery, but that's a REALLY oversimplified explanation. Other folks can explain this much better.

Do you NEED to use one if you're using 1.5 and 2.5Ohm devices? I'll say this: the device will fire and you should get a good vape. But having the safety fuse there will NOT negatively affect the performance of the device, and it's just a tiny little bit of added safety. Remember that you're playing with electricity and battery chemicals. Care is always advised.

Thanks for answering so quick, really appreciate the feedback. What exactly is the protection chip and any idea where I can get one? I vape between 1.5 and 2.5 ohms @ 3.7 to 4 volts, do I need one?
 

SupplyDaddy

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Do they all come with a protection chip? I've been looking at a few vendors and some list it as coming with and others don't say one way or another.

Are you asking about the K100? It's a Mechanical device... no chips.. no wires...
 
Are you asking about the K100? It's a Mechanical device... no chips.. no wires...

Thanks Supply Daddy, I'm aware of what a mech mod is. As you can see by the previous posts, I am talking about the "2cent fuse". Some vendors sell the K100 with, most without, which is why I asked my question. Appreciate the reply.
 
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