Kanger Protank Airflow Fix

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

(Revised to be more specific)

This fix is for (KangerTech Heads) on and for (KangerTech Protanks).

Also This Fix Is To Cover The "No" Airflo issue... "Not" The Airy Draw Issue

(This thread is for a specific Brand (KangerTech) and (The Kanger Protank Line made by KangerTech)
(Excluding the Mini Protank, As this issue can't effect them seeing as the grommet is fully exposed)

I use only authentic KangerTech parts on my KangerTech products.
If you are using 3rd party parts, knockoffs, clones or a different item all together then
Please ignore this thread and start a new thread for your specific item and issue.

Sorry about the NEW opening to this post but I needed to clear up a few things since on my original post for this fix some people got confused somehow)
(I also added a larger image)

Thank You and Please Continue!!!​

Ok, so I have looked just about everywhere and see that no one has posted or addressed the real issue with the no airflow on the Kanger heads, I see lots of fixes that involve buying more parts or threading it down only so far onto your device... not really a fix, and could also damage threads on some devices if not tightened down properly.

So... The airflow issue lays within the base and head, The head is designed so it has some give when screwed down on a device with a long center pin, But if the rubber grommet gets compressed enough it will bulge out, This grommet is also an insulator that holds the coil ends.

If you unscrew the base from the device and look into the bottom you will see the white grommet filling the inside of the air tube, Air comes in from the tiny holes along the side near the top of the threads, down the inside of the 510 connection tube and up the small hole in the center contact post...

I made a quick diagram below... The yellow lines show the path of airflow, Note: Air actually passes through the slotted part of the contact post not under it, But for ease of recognition I put the cut sideways so you can more easily recognize it, The orange box in the second image represents the center pin in your device... and yes it does go inside the 510 connector tube when tightened down on your device.

(click image to enlarge)
​

Easy fix: I take a small vice or pliers and "VERY" lightly compress the grommet, then just shave the bulge flush with an X-acto knife, NOTE: Don't over compress the grommet when doing this, again it is an insulator for the coil wire ends and if you remove to much it could cause a short... only shave enough to allow airflow, Not all heads will need this done, so try them before modifying them.

(This also works in reverse to adjust an airy draw.)
(I know I said this wasn't for the Airy draw issues, and it's not, this is a side note)
(I use very thin O-rings and I place them around the post to restrict the air flow on my original Protank)
(This will also function on the Davide Glassomizers as they use the same heads)

Sorry if this is messy or confusing as I've only been vaping about 3 weeks!

Good Luck and Vape On!!!​

 

[jhelliwell]

Great great post! I don't have the issue with mine, but know someone who does. I'll send them the link

 

[crxess]

Just as simple and faster to remove the coil head and reset the pin so the grommet is not being pinched. Next install without over tightening.
Argue all you want, there is a difference between loose and over tightening.

A simpler fix to loose draw is using the Evod(original coils) Though you cannot purchase these from Kanger. Other manufacturers still make them.

Good post and all information is always welcome.
The more information available the more likely a person will find a solution that fits for them.

 

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

Comment Removed by OP

 

[BernieVideo]

Hmmm...I really thought the issue was with the big air vents built into the bottom of the bottom plate.
I notice that if I block 2 or the 4 vents, with my fingers, while taking a draw, the hit is less airy.

Seems a simpler solution than fiddling with coils and grommets.

I have on order a Hypertank, which is very similar to the PT2, it uses the same coils. Besides it holding more liquid, the bottom of the bottom plate has none of those air vents.



I think that this configuration will solve the airy hit issue.

We will see

 

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

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[crxess]

Hey, I wasn't busting your post. Simply adding Facts. Different situations take different actions.

I have seen knock off Heads that looked like they were thrown together with spare parts from a grab bag. Kanger uses a pretty standard design which only calls for one size grommet.

Somewhere in this vast forum is a side-by-side pic of a clone and an original and yes the clone has a nasty fat grommet. Not all clones are that way. I use both Kanger and a good copy.

 

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

Comment Removed by OP

 

[Scott Campbell]

Personally, the analysis of the problem and developing a fix is brilliant.

 

[pufZeppelin]

Ok, so I have looked just about everywhere and see that no one has posted or addressed the real issue with the no airflow on the Kanger heads, I see lots of fixes that involve buying more parts or threading it down only so far onto your device... not really a fix, and could also damage threads on some devices when not screwed all the way down.

So... [FONT=arial, sans-serif]The airflow issue lays withing the base and head, The head is designed so it has some give when screwed down on a device with a long center pin, But if the rubber insulator gets to compressed it bulges out, This insulator holds the leads/coil ends.

If you unscrew the base from the device and look into the bottom you will see the white insulator filling the inner air tube, Air comes in from the tiny holes along the side near the top of the threads, down the inside of the 510 connection tube and up the small hole in the center contact post...[/FONT]

hey ZOMBIE!!!,

this is what I’m thinking
being the 510 connection of the Protank / Unitank
the insulator/center pin is capsulated INSIDE the 510 connector
not sure how it could be 'over' compressed...

now looking at the bcc's with ego threaded skirts, the possibility is there,
however, I (yet) don't think there is enuff grommet to squish out
and make a seal around the inside circumference…

the theory is there (I like it a lot), but I need more convincing…

 

[III BIRDMAN III]

People Can Be So Judgemental.....Geese Read if its not looking like it would help you Move on.......

Great Thread Sir ......

 

[crxess]

Sorry if I seem a little abrasive, But you are making assumptions as to what I am using and how I am using them, Maybe if you "asked" me I if I was over tightening them and/or using cheap knockoffs instead of just assuming I would not go on the defensive... Just saying!!!

Yes you seem that way.
No, I made no assumptions of your personal equipment.
Some how I don't feel asking those questions would have been less challenging to your logic.
No, I have no reason to think anyone taking the time to evaluate a situation and determine a cause/correction is an Idiot.

For your situation your solution was logical. For someone else it may not apply. That was, is and will continue to be my logic.

A+ for your work on the issue
A+ for sharing information with the community
B- assuming I made any assumptions.

 

[JulesXsmokr]

I like the theory and your drawing OP
It is worth considering, I also have air draw tightness on my Pro Tank and Evods, I do like to use the older Evod heads on them,
and I re-wick with ( cotton and/or silica )and re-coil those, but alas, They are still a little tight and tend to gurgle more.
I'll be trying your method on a few...

 

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

Comment Removed by OP

 

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

Comment Removed by OP

 

[flybykite]

Thanks Green Zombie, That was EXACTLY the issue! I just couldn't figure it out. Thanks dude! Provari does tell customers about the issue with protanks but they fail to mention what exactly is stopping the flow. You nailed it and gave a fix.

 

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

Thanks Green Zombie, That was EXACTLY the issue! I just couldn't figure it out. Thanks dude! Provari does tell customers about the issue with protanks but they fail to mention what exactly is stopping the flow. You nailed it and gave a fix.

I'm not sure Provape Knows, I think they believe it to be the flush fit on the device.

Edit: Oh, They changed the notice, Got this from Provapes site...
"NOTE: Due to the design of the new ProTank 2 we recommend that you don't screw the tank down all the way to the ProVari. This will reduce the airflow. For best results, screw the tank on just to the point where you start to feel it tighten but don't turn it any further. It will still have a secure connection to the ProVari and allow for proper airflow."

Glad to help and Thanks for the positive comment!

 

[dimo]

I know this thread is a tad older, but a search led me here.

I had an issue with one of my protanks that had zero draw if I tightened it all way. So after I read this and investigated, I found I had this exact same problem! Did a little trimming and now it can sit flush on my provari with good airflow!

Thanks!

 

[JulesXsmokr]

The fix is working better for me, I rebuild my coils and I do see that the bulge can be quite evident, some of these coils new, comes with the grommet looking like it is even at an upwards and outwards tilt in its original form. no problem now, easy fix!

 

[hcour]

Just as simple and faster to remove the coil head and reset the pin so the grommet is not being pinched. Next install without over tightening.

Wow. I've been hassling with my protanks for a couple of weeks, every since I bought them. I followed your simple advice and now they're vaping like champs. Thanks so much.