Just rebuilt both mine at 1.5ohms. 32ga kanthal and Wow what a difference. I think I'm in vape Heaven, lol
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Just rebuilt a head, I wound the coil out of 32 gauge Kanthal on a 1/16 drill bit and used a cotton wick. Wow what a difference! I have a apple flavored juice that gets burney tasting on just about everything I have tried. Now I get loads of vape and no burn. Plus this was way easyer to do than I thought it would be.
Can we point out the mistakes grimmgreen made on his build? At least it works. He's never been good at rebuilding.
I turned it off when he put his loose coil in, one side touching the barrel, then started with trimming the leads before reassembling the tail piece
Really good to see more & more in this thread are rebuilding their first head & having success!
I turned it off when he put his loose coil in, one side touching the barrel, then started with trimming the leads before reassembling the tail piece
I hope newbies don't watch that and then rebuild theirs that way.. yikes!
Can we point out the mistakes grimmgreen made on his build? At least it works. He's never been good at rebuilding.
Thanks for linking.
I have 15 Kanger T-3 coils that I decided to rebuild. I bought the wire (32 ga Kanthal A-1, 100') and wick (3 mm silica, 21') from Sean on Amazon for $35.00 total. That's the same person who made this rebuild video Kanger T3 Bottom Coil Atomizer Rebuild HD Close Up - YouTube
I started with a paperclip for the support, then remembered I had some thinner bailing wire. Anything small and stiff will work. The first one had a short. I watched the video again, rebuilt all 15 in 1 1/2 hours. Two difficult parts: putting the rubber seat back in and wrapping the coil right. I rigged a bright light, that was 80% of the battle (I just used a shop light. Lit it up perfectly). Also, I ended up using nose hair scissors to trim the wire at the end of the build. Flush cut pliers are whats needed. Cheap ones can be bought for $15.00. 5 wrap always ended up about 2 ohms. I bought the ohm meter and 510 battery to Ego-T adapter. Ohm meter Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter, Out of stock today. 510 battery to ego-t atomizer adapter Adaptor, 510 Battery to EGO T Atomizer (those items are everywhere on the internet, although the ohm meter was out of stock. I setup a "email when back in stock" at madvapes. They said "they're here", I bought it. It will immediately tell you if its a good build (a short will read 1, a good build will give you the ohms).
High end T-3 coils are $3.50. $3.50 x 15= $52.50. I've already made my money back, can make many more with what I have. They work as good as new ones.
I started with a paperclip for the support, then remembered I had some thinner bailing wire. Anything small and stiff will work. The first one had a short. I watched the video again, rebuilt all 15 in 1 1/2 hours. Two difficult parts: putting the rubber seat back in and wrapping the coil right. I rigged a bright light, that was 80% of the battle (I just used a shop light. Lit it up perfectly). Also, I ended up using nose hair scissors to trim the wire at the end of the build. Flush cut pliers are whats needed. Cheap ones can be bought for $15.00. 5 wrap always ended up about 2 ohms. I bought the ohm meter and 510 battery to Ego-T adapter. Ohm meter Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter, Out of stock today. 510 battery to ego-t atomizer adapter Adaptor, 510 Battery to EGO T Atomizer (those items are everywhere on the internet, although the ohm meter was out of stock. I setup a "email when back in stock" at madvapes. They said "they're here", I bought it. It will immediately tell you if its a good build (a short will read 1, a good build will give you the ohms).
High end T-3 coils are $3.50. $3.50 x 15= $52.50. I've already made my money back, can make many more with what I have. They work as good as new ones.
I was also wondering why the hell he was trimming the wicks while the head was in the base!
I just hope nobody goes by his tutorial. Check out his phoenix rebuild. My son could do better, he's 4 and autistic.
I just hope nobody goes by his tutorial. Check out his phoenix rebuild. My son could do better, he's 4 and autistic.
Dude... I'm a newbie and yeah...
He lost me when I noticed he Britney on his wall... LOL
I love Nick (GrimmGreen), but there were so many hilarious mistakes in that ProTank rebuild video I had to check my calendar to be sure it wasn't April 1st. 
GrimmGreen's Protank rebuild made me consider driving to the liquor store and buying a pack of cigs.
Is that why he's not into RBAs? His attempt at rebuilding was careless and ham-handed.
I do enjoy his videos though.
"Buuuurp...What's in the news, Robin?"
Is that why he's not into RBAs? His attempt at rebuilding was careless and ham-handed.
I do enjoy his videos though.
"Buuuurp...What's in the news, Robin?"
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I have recently tried a Protank and it's definitely a favourite. One thing I found is that the heads don't seem to last very long. I tried dry burning one but I can't actually see the coils so I don't know if they are glowing or not, is there something obvious I am missing here?
I do want to try rebuilding as replacement heads are not cheap. What is the best materials for a beginner to use? Do I need a meter?
Also, does anyone know a well priced supplier that delivers overseas (New Zealand)?
Thanks in advance for any help with this.
I do want to try rebuilding as replacement heads are not cheap. What is the best materials for a beginner to use? Do I need a meter?
Also, does anyone know a well priced supplier that delivers overseas (New Zealand)?
Thanks in advance for any help with this.
When I rebuild mine with 32ga kanthal I use 3/4 wrap with 1- 1.5mm wick inside the coil. After I build it i Use my Vamo and read the coil. I get 1.5 to 1.7 ohms consistantly. When It reads correctly then I dry burn it. Then I re read it again. If it reads that again I then put another peice of 1.5mm on top and push the tube in on top. I then read it again for a short. If all good then I'm done.
You don't need a meter, but I strongly suggest getting one. Most regulated mods (provari, vamo, etc) have an ohm reading, many use that. I have a vamo, but use my DMM because its much quicker and convenient than screwing the head onto the base then screwing the assembly onto the mod. You can find DMM's on ebay for $6-8 US dollars. In fact, you can find your kamthal and silica on ebay too, Im sure most if not all will ship to NZ.
Remove the silicone cup and metal tube that's press-fit into the part where the wick/coil is. You'll have a clear view of the wick/coil and will be able to see when dry-burning has done its job.
Good info, thanks!When I rebuild mine with 32ga kanthal I use 3/4 wrap with 1- 1.5mm wick inside the coil. After I build it i Use my Vamo and read the coil. I get 1.5 to 1.7 ohms consistantly. When It reads correctly then I dry burn it. Then I re read it again. If it reads that again I then put another peice of 1.5mm on top and push the tube in on top. I then read it again for a short. If all good then I'm done.
I rebuilt one of mine last night with 30ga kanthan that came in the mail earlier in the day. 5 wraps gave me 1.0 ohms. I filled her up and threw her atop my China GG that also arrived in the mail earlier in the day.
I thought I would get some burnt or odd flavors with a 1.0 ohm coil on a freshly charged battery, but no. I got huge, billowing clouds of very clean flavorful vapor. I'm a happy man.
I thought I would get some burnt or odd flavors with a 1.0 ohm coil on a freshly charged battery, but no. I got huge, billowing clouds of very clean flavorful vapor. I'm a happy man.
I tried this last night and made a 2.5 coil but when i fired it it tasted like burnt rubber im guessing the little rubber plug on the bottom melting a little? i noticed the factory coil on mine had used some non resistance wire where the plug is on the bottom,anyone else have this issue yet?
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