Kanger protank rebuild

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Butters78

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I tried this last night and made a 2.5 coil but when i fired it it tasted like burnt rubber im guessing the little rubber plug on the bottom melting a little? i noticed the factory coil on mine had used some non resistance wire where the plug is on the bottom,anyone else have this issue yet?

If you keep getting the burnt rubber you might have set the power a little too high and singed it. I'm guilty of this as well. One quick fix that I've done is snipping the tip off of the grommet to remove the burnt part. I've done it a couple times and it works. I've been calling it circumsising the grommet lol.
 

FACE MEAT

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Schnarph

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Thanks Face Meat and friends! It's been about a week since I read this whole thread, I didn't need to make a new coil for a Protank until today. I've wrapped coils for rba's and rda's so when I got the Protank last week I knew a rebuild would be a snap. I used the stock coil/wick setups for a while, but 2.5+ ohms is way too high for me unless I'm using a VV/VW device. I used 30g Kanthal with 6 (or was it 5?) wraps around 3mm silica for 1.5 ohms. I threw 3 strands of wick on top for the completely unnecessary flavor wick and it's working great on a mod I built using a fresh 18650. It took me just as long to trim the excess wick off as it did to wrap the coil, and I did use a sewing needle for stiffness as I learned in this thread. Thanks for the info!
 

Marredding

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I read and retread this thread and got the courage to give it a try. Omg I was successful the first try and rebuilt 6 coils today reading between 2 and 2.5 which are perfect for me. I used 32 ga wire and silica wick, peaches and cream yarn. Both worked great. Thank you for the easy to follow instructions
 

jazon1

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If you keep getting the burnt rubber you might have set the power a little too high and singed it. I'm guilty of this as well. One quick fix that I've done is snipping the tip off of the grommet to remove the burnt part. I've done it a couple times and it works. I've been calling it circumsising the grommet lol.

the burning flavor is gone after cutting off the tip of the grommet thanks for the idea:)
 

SITS

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Does the leg that is between body of tank and grommet get cut flush with grommet or does a small part gets folded over grommet similar to leg that is put through the grommet. I ordered 20ft of 3mm wick and 20 feet of 3.5 wick. I got 250' of Kanthal 32 guage A1 wire. All will be here before weeks end and i am anxious to get started.
 
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Light Seeker

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Does the leg that is between body of tank and grommet get cut flush with grommet or does a small part gets folded over grommet similar to leg that is put through the grommet. I ordered 20ft of 3mm wick and 20 feet of 3.5 wick. I got 250' of Kanthal 32 guage A1 wire. All will be here before weeks end and i am anxious to get started.

I put the 1 lead thru grommet, fold the other lead over, then insert grommet into body (thanks Cheech, I'll try VG...inserting the grommet is often more time than anything else). I then insert the metal end cap into the grommet, trim both leads flush, then trim the wick. Ohm it all out, screw into base, and ohm it again. I've found if I don't trim the leads quite flush, there's a good chance of a short when screwed into the base.
 

Light Seeker

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Dumb question. Where do you connect leads to test ohms when it is connected to battery? I have an ohm meter not the type you can buy in vape shop.

Not a dumb question. Can't test it when it's connected to battery.

Set your DMM to the smallest ohm reading, it's usually 200 ohms. Touch your 2 leads together, see what the resistance is.... It may be 0.1 up to 1+ ohms. This is the internal resistance of the meter, and must be subtracted from your ohm reading off the protank.

Then put neg lead on center pin, positive lead on threads of protank. Take your reading, then subtract whatever the internal resistance of the meter is. For example, if your internal meter resistance is 0.4 ohms, and the measured resistance on the protank is 2.3 ohms, your actual resistance is 1.9 ohms.
 

sjb217

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Not a dumb question. Can't test it when it's connected to battery.

Set your DMM to the smallest ohm reading, it's usually 200 ohms. Touch your 2 leads together, see what the resistance is.... It may be 0.1 up to 1+ ohms. This is the internal resistance of the meter, and must be subtracted from your ohm reading off the protank.

Then put neg lead on center pin, positive lead on threads of protank. Take your reading, then subtract whatever the internal resistance of the meter is. For example, if your internal meter resistance is 0.4 ohms, and the measured resistance on the protank is 2.3 ohms, your actual resistance is 1.9 ohms.

If I have a short, what will the multi-meter show?
 
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