Kanger Subtank Mini clear insulator melted to my RBA!

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inspects

Squonkamaniac
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http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...peek-insulator-section-potential-issue-2.html

This is one of the users who posted about a gap in his insulator. Looks like it came that way. Another user there also reported having cracking in his clear insulator.

Strange...like I said, I took all of mine apart and the insulator is very tight at the top.

I didn't even buy them at the same place either....plus I gave a few away, I asked my friends to disassemble them and look at the insulator, their all tight according to them.
 

vjdossey

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I just ordered a mini, too. Sweet-Vapes states they are the new insulators, but I'm not sure if they are the brown ones. I'm just going to use the occ coils until we find out if this problem has really been fixed with these brown insulators.
I went with the Kanger Subtank instead of the Atlantis because the was a problem with that tank not being all stainless steel, and people were worried about the coating eventually rubbing off the brass. They are fixing those tanks, too.

Whwn you get yours will you report back, please. I plan to buy mine there as well :)
 

JC87

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Feb 4, 2015
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It seems the user whos picture I used above reassembled his RBA deck slightly offset which caused this particular issue.

I'm taking a look at the picture of the guy's subtank mini that had the insulator that didn't fit right, and I figured out the problem..

It looks like he cross-threaded it. I just did the exact same thing on mine after my last rebuild and cleaning session.

Here's the picture with the areas that I'm looking at:
410448-kangertech-subtank-mini-gap-side-annotated.jpg


As you can see, his entire build deck is off by about a 1 degree angle from the point where his insulator should be sitting. It's not even pressed flat against the build deck. Compare that to the threads on the subtank mini, and he's off by 1 half-twist, which would be about the same degree.

Being as the unit is so small, that's probably what happened. Wouldn't take much to mar those threads.


I wonder if others with the pictures of the offset insulators did the same thing and didnt realize it, or if some people are actually receiving theirs like that. I know I never adjusted my RBA, and used it how it came out of the box with the coil already installed. I did wick the coil but the cotton slid through easily and never changed the orientation of the coil, so I know thats not the only reason that is causing some insulators to fail, but I could definitely see the offset insulator being a point of failure due to user error if they were misaligned from reassembling the positive post.
 

StarreLabelle

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Whwn you get yours will you report back, please. I plan to buy mine there as well :)
I found out that the Mini Subtanks are currently equipped with the clear insulators, according to the info on their (Sweet-Vapes) website. The 25 mm Subtanks don't specify the color of the insulator, just that they are the current replacements from Kanger.

I think I'll just order the brown insulators from the Kangertech site to be on the safe side. They are less than a dollar.

I noticed that people on the FastTech site were commenting about this, too. Several say they've received the brown insulators, while others report getting the clear ones. This was in the comment section for the Minis...

I'm glad I found out about this before I did any damage, but it's a hassle. I'm just going to use the Occ coils until it's straightened out. I do think Kanger needs to address this issue further, and make it right...I love their products.
 
I've been vaping on mine for 3 weeks using all sorts of juices. No issues with my clear insulator. I check it every time I clean my coil.

Done Kanthal builds down to 0.4, and nickel builds down to 0.16 (for temperature control). I've vaped juices using cinnamon, fruity flavors, citrus flavors, max vg, 50/50 blend, 70/30 blend, and anything in between..

I've accidentally hit this at 110W on my Sigelei 150w mod on my 0.4 ohm coil, and other than having to change the cotton, had no ill effects to the insulator.

I understand that you've had problems with your RBA's insulator, but every single post you've made on the subject has been on how evil and awful they are that they didn't fix the problem for you immediately, and . I don't understand how that these posts about your single incident of a broken insulator can be useful, nor appropriate for the rest of the folks who are out there attempting to find the best way to use their devices.

I'm not trying to be mean, so don't take me the wrong way, but there's now 3 or 4 threads on this subject on the board, most of which were started by you, along with over 20 pages of you discussing it, and also not letting go and derailing others' discussions that are going on discussing builds, or flavor, or even reviews.

Again, I'm not trying to be a jerk, but there's a saying on 4chan, which is "/b/ is not your personal army".

I understand you have spent a lot of time on reddit, which imo, is one of the more "aggressive" product forums out there overall. There seems to be a high level of self-centeredness over there, requiring anyone who could have potentially "wronged" them to get everyone to pick up arms against their perceived aggressor, and force that perceived aggressor to fix everything immediately, for free, and without thought of cost and time that might go into that perceived fix.

I really don't think this forum is full of the sort of people who are going to pick up pitchforks and torches, storm the gates of Kangertech, and hold everyone hostage until they send out free replacements to everyone, overnight from China, immediately, because we said so.

It sucks that you got a crappy insulator that broke. I hope you get a new one. This is one of the best tanks I've ever used, and I absolutely love it. The flavor is great and it's quickly become my favorite tank, especially compared to everything else on the market.

Don't let one bad experience make you go on a rampage to ruin everyone else's good time. Nobody got hurt, died, injured, burned, insulted, scorned, chastised, nor maimed by the incident.

Please, let us know what happens when you get your replacement, so you can go back to vaping on this awesome, brand new, game-changing device. Please let the ranting about the insulator end. We've totally got your back here.

Thanks.
 

vjdossey

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StarreLabelle thanks for info... I've been on the fence because I stopped using kanger atuff a while back. Juat because the stuff out then did not suit my vaping style. My needs/style is changing again. And so are kanger products! I want the mini.... and I'll get it and use the occ until everything is sorted out. Unless, by chance I get lucky and get the latest, newest, fixed version... :)
 

JC87

Senior Member
Feb 4, 2015
164
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I've been vaping on mine for 3 weeks using all sorts of juices. No issues with my clear insulator. I check it every time I clean my coil.

Done Kanthal builds down to 0.4, and nickel builds down to 0.16 (for temperature control). I've vaped juices using cinnamon, fruity flavors, citrus flavors, max vg, 50/50 blend, 70/30 blend, and anything in between..

I've accidentally hit this at 110W on my Sigelei 150w mod on my 0.4 ohm coil, and other than having to change the cotton, had no ill effects to the insulator.

I understand that you've had problems with your RBA's insulator, but every single post you've made on the subject has been on how evil and awful they are that they didn't fix the problem for you immediately, and . I don't understand how that these posts about your single incident of a broken insulator can be useful, nor appropriate for the rest of the folks who are out there attempting to find the best way to use their devices.

I'm not trying to be mean, so don't take me the wrong way, but there's now 3 or 4 threads on this subject on the board, most of which were started by you, along with over 20 pages of you discussing it, and also not letting go and derailing others' discussions that are going on discussing builds, or flavor, or even reviews.

Again, I'm not trying to be a jerk, but there's a saying on 4chan, which is "/b/ is not your personal army".

I understand you have spent a lot of time on reddit, which imo, is one of the more "aggressive" product forums out there overall. There seems to be a high level of self-centeredness over there, requiring anyone who could have potentially "wronged" them to get everyone to pick up arms against their perceived aggressor, and force that perceived aggressor to fix everything immediately, for free, and without thought of cost and time that might go into that perceived fix.

I really don't think this forum is full of the sort of people who are going to pick up pitchforks and torches, storm the gates of Kangertech, and hold everyone hostage until they send out free replacements to everyone, overnight from China, immediately, because we said so.

It sucks that you got a crappy insulator that broke. I hope you get a new one. This is one of the best tanks I've ever used, and I absolutely love it. The flavor is great and it's quickly become my favorite tank, especially compared to everything else on the market.

Don't let one bad experience make you go on a rampage to ruin everyone else's good time. Nobody got hurt, died, injured, burned, insulted, scorned, chastised, nor maimed by the incident.

Please, let us know what happens when you get your replacement, so you can go back to vaping on this awesome, brand new, game-changing device. Please let the ranting about the insulator end. We've totally got your back here.

Thanks.

Ive never claimed them to be evil, if you read my earlier posts I did nothing but sing their praises. It was after not hearing a peep for nearly a week that I began to become annoyed by Kanger. I have never tried to bash them, I've only been honest about the lack of service theyve offered me. I love their products (especially the nano), and the mini is still a great tank minus all of the RBA problems. Lately, the only time I reply to the thread youre speaking about is when a certain user made a personal attack directed at me or claimed I said something I didnt. This is not the first time hes done this and others have called him out on it in the past. I cleared that up and moved on, but there this user seems to want to fan the flames and start drama. Notice I never cast the first stone, merely react to what has been said. I hate drama in threads, but I wont allow myself to be discredited when the information I am providing is accurate and the information he is providing is not.

Also, I dont really like reddit much, I far prefer this forum. I had never read or posted over there before this issue with the insulators, and made my thread there to see if others have had this issue, and to let others know of my experiences and possibly help them avoid what happened to me. Same as I did here. Like yourself, I also find they are more hostile at reddit and haven't really posted there since.

I dont want anyone to pick up pitchforks over this. At the same time, the issues shouldn't be ignored either. You and others are saying im the only one that has had this issue which is simply not the case.

I never asked Kanger to provide me with free things, especially immediately. I expected them to be able to resolve a customer issue considering their product ended up being permanently damaged from no fault of mine in under 48 hours. I feel they should take responsibility for it and make it right. Not ignore it and treat me like I am asking for a hand out.

You are right that nobody got hurt over the melted insulators, but someone easily could if they aren't using a protected battery, or if they inhale potentially dangerous insulator fumes. If the insulator fails, and an unprotected battery shorts, it could vent or explode. Its a serious issues and you cant assume everyone is using regulated devices.

Thanks for the post here, and I do understand, because I have made this thread for this issue, and would not have posted back over there if that certain user had not mentioned me in a way that insinuates I am in any way being dishonest about the information stated. I hope you understand.
 
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Jockamo

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Lova

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This is the only time I have heard of subtank insulators breaking, especially the clear ones. I have gone through +-5 tankfuls of known tank cracker liquids with the rba head and it's still completely intact with no damages whatsoever, I'll do a check on the rba head when I get to the point I can disassemble it completely and do a chimney coil in there. I think the reason your insulator failed is either sub-par quality insulators ("monday pieces"), mechanical stress or tensions inside the part itself which cause the part to implode if exposed to stress. I highly doubt Kanger will send out replacements for one single case of melted insulators, except the old white insulator on the release model of Subtank, those were fixed by Kanger by sending the clear insulators from which I have no memory of being broken or melted by any liquids, which is also my personal experience (5-7 tankfuls of liqourice-absinthe-menthol-citrus liquid + 7 tankfuls of alcohol-flavoring based diy liquid)

IMHO It's useless spreading info on some case that happened to one person as I have not heard from this happening to any others than yourself, so my recommendation is to see if people have similar experiences with the RBA head for the subtank, I do have couple of clearos I'm willing to sacrifice for science to see if they act similar to the rba head, which I highly doubt, as Kanger usually puts out products with quite high standards but perhaps 1 or 2 flaws in the first ever released model of the product, which is surprisingly enough fixed rather quickly in the second or third revision of the product, just like the Subtank: The first version ever released had the white insulators which melted with tank cracker juices (not crack, _melt_ as in someone used a lighter on them keep in mind) but as people had those problems, they started providing insulators to fix the issues and started releasing the second version with the non-melting and probably non-cracking clear insulators and those worked, at least for me and many others who have purchased the Mini or the newer 25mm tank, so I don't see why people should avoid using the tank due to one bad case, which could be caused by anything pretty much (screwing the head on too tight -> causing the center pin to twist or rise -> breaking the insulator, monday piece -> a piece that didn't work as planned due to unknown issue in material/machining/shipping/something other, just bad luck and so forth)

Feel free to disagree with me, but I personally don't see why people should stop using the RBA head just because one failure of the insulator which can be caused by so many different things that I don't even want to start writing here as there are so damn many different reasons. But I would prefer to keep this reply as a personal opinion only, I have no need to bash on the thread starter or his/her own experiences, but as I have not heard from _any_ other case of melted/broken _clear_ insulators on both the 25mm subtank or the subtank mini, I would prefer people to still use the device as intended but maybe monitor the insulators every tank or so.

I still intend my post to be only personal opinion and not directed to anyone personally, just this issue and so forth so i would prefer to keep that in mind as I do not want to cause any commotion or angriness due to my personal opinions, just remember: "Everyone has an opinion, but you don't have to agree with them but just let them be as-is and not get upset if someone disagrees with your opinions" -Myself 9. Feb 2015

Edit: Personally I think the pictures OP posted were cracks from mechanical stress rather than melting, here's a picture what a tank cracker liquid did to the _OLD FIRST RELEASE SUBTANK 25MM RBA HEAD_ (NOT THE CLEAR ONES!)
f642c22ca1827b8baf2bef380916f159.jpg


(Not my image, if the owner wants the picture removed, I'll do it gladly, I took it from another forum)
 
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Pinggolfer

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This is the only time I have heard of subtank insulators breaking, especially the clear ones. I have gone through +-5 tankfuls of known tank cracker liquids with the rba head and it's still completely intact with no damages whatsoever, I'll do a check on the rba head when I get to the point I can disassemble it completely and do a chimney coil in there. I think the reason your insulator failed is either sub-par quality insulators ("monday pieces"), mechanical stress or tensions inside the part itself which cause the part to implode if exposed to stress.

Every day in China is Monday. I doubt they even know what day it is. I do hope the problem is corrected as I was planning to purchase the sub mini, but after finding this tread I'll wait a bit more. Does anyone know if the vendors know what insulator is on the the tanks they sell?
 

Lova

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Every day in China is Monday. I doubt they even know what day it is. I do hope the problem is corrected as I was planning to purchase the sub mini, but after finding this tread I'll wait a bit more. Does anyone know if the vendors know what insulator is on the the tanks they sell?
I personally have thr Subtank Mini with the clear insulators + I have went through about 5 to 7 tankfuls of only tank cracker liquids and I plan on putting the RBA head to test when my liquid order arrives (only tank crackers in it!). I personally haven't seen or heard of any clear insulators being dissolved with any liquids (well, perhaps with pluid, but that liquid might melt stainless steel also!) so I wouldn't stress about the insulators too much, and if the insulators do melt, you still have the OCC heads which can be rebuilt rather easily.
 

Lova

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I really like how the deck looks very much like the Kayfun and it seems easy to rebuild. I'm really interested in builds around 1.2-1.4 ohm.
Order one, you won't be disappointed and as far as I know there has been absolutely no issues with different liquids and the insulators melting except this one which OP said, which might not even be caused by liquids at all. Personally as i already have said 3-5 times I haven't had absolutely any issues with the RBA head on the mini with clear insulators and I've gone through 50ml (+ - 10ml) of tank crackers solely using the RBA head in the tank and had 0 issued wumith the insulators
 

Pinggolfer

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Order one, you won't be disappointed and as far as I know there has been absolutely no issues with different liquids and the insulators melting except this one which OP said, which might not even be caused by liquids at all. Personally as i already have said 3-5 times I haven't had absolutely any issues with the RBA head on the mini with clear insulators and I've gone through 50ml (+ - 10ml) of tank crackers solely using the RBA head in the tank and had 0 issued wumith the insulators

Is the vape still good using 1.2 or 1.4 ohm coils? My mod is a Provari P3 and will fire a .7 ohm, but I'm use to the Kayfun at 1.4
 
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