Kanger subtank TSCs

[a tez]

I have quite a few nickel OCCs in circulation, never heard of them flooding. Usually the opposite.

On the 3 that are flooding, it was not wicked properly. The cotton was not flush causing the coils to have extra juice leak in through the gap.

I plan on buying the Subtank Plus when it comes out, and maybe I will pick up a Nano as well to see what happens. I have two Subtank Minis already and only the rba works perfectly in both of them.

 

[BNEAT]

Spoken like someone who has spent very little time with an oven. Just about every oven needs to have its temperature checked and compensated for. Ovens can be calibrated, and the temperature setting you use will, obviously, change after calibration. The DNA40 does the equivalent of automatic calibration, and the temperature setting you use will, also obviously, change.

If you get a crappy result, you don't just throw your hands up and pout in the corner.

True story here (not anology)..... remodeled our kitchen.... bought new oven..... temperature not right (cooked cooler than temperature setting)..... contacted manufacturer....manufacturer sent out a service technician (great customer service)..... oven turned on and heated up to cutoff....temperature measured.... temperature regulation was off and technician calibrated the oven.... temperature now correct...no burnt cookies....no guessing....oh and no charge for the service call... under warranty....

Again, my analogy was spot on. Maybe you should try reading it again.

There is no argument here fellas, If you change your toppers or batteries and have to constantly change temps, then something is wrong, period.

 

[retird]

Again, my analogy was spot on. Maybe you should try reading it again.

There is no argument here fellas, If you change your toppers or batteries and have to constantly change temps, then something is wrong, period.

Was not arguing... just gave a true life experience.... when I change toppers (refilling topper) and batteries I need not adjust temperature...and don't...when using a different topper my adjustment depends on coil build and juice used.... no different than using kanthal in various toppers in wattage mode... you adjust wattage there....and on a mech mod the "great vape" changes as the battery drops off because you have no wattage or temperature adjustment...

 

[dr g]

There is no argument here fellas, If you change your toppers or batteries and have to constantly change temps, then something is wrong, period.

Totally, completely, 100% false. Even if calibration never changed, changing atomizers will often result in different temperature settings. One atomizer does not necessarily operate at the same temperature as another. One build does not necessarily operate at the same temperature as another.

 

[a tez]

I just ordered the Nano with my Delta 2 RBA deck. I'll report my findings with the TSC when I get it. Meanwhile, I'll be using the Mini RTA.

Had a starting resistance of .12ohm and 5 hours later it's still .12ohm even after my flask went into sleep 2 different times.

 

[Kh888]

I am also someone who is experiencing problems with the Kanger coils (nickel). In addition to temperature fluctuations, my battery will drop to zero and then return to normal about 20 secs later. Too many other oddities to list, as well. I am anxiously waiting for my nickel to arrive so I can use the RBA base.

In the meantime, I have shut temp control off and am building with Kanthal and it is a great vape. I am a low wattage user, so this works well in my case. Having to up my temp to 450+ To use the nickel coils, would likely mean that I have to turn the power up too much...I think.

 

[dr g]

Having to up my temp to 450+ To use the nickel coils, would likely mean that I have to turn the power up too much...I think.

Wattage does not mean the same thing in a temperature controlled application. When you use thin kanthal wires at low wattage, you are likely exceeding 600 degrees at the coil, possibly by far. You MUST adjust temperature on a temperature controlled device to get the vape you want. It's not an option.

It is common to run kanger coils over 500 degrees.

 

[squag]

Wattage does not mean the same thing in a temperature controlled application. When you use thin kanthal wires at low wattage, you are likely exceeding 600 degrees at the coil, possibly by far. You MUST adjust temperature on a temperature controlled device to get the vape you want. It's not an option.

It is common to run kanger coils over 500 degrees.

Power, or Wattage, is a well defined concept, so I've got no idea what you mean here. Could you explain?

The 600 degree figure you give is interesting and a little surprising. Do you have a source for that?

 

[BNEAT]

Totally, completely, 100% false. Even if calibration never changed, changing atomizers will often result in different temperature settings. One atomizer does not necessarily operate at the same temperature as another. One build does not necessarily operate at the same temperature as another.

hahaha, well that gave me a chuckle. Does that mean water boils at different temperatures depending on what pot you have it in?

 

[BNEAT]

Wattage does not mean the same thing in a temperature controlled application. When you use thin kanthal wires at low wattage, you are likely exceeding 600 degrees at the coil, possibly by far. You MUST adjust temperature on a temperature controlled device to get the vape you want. It's not an option.

It is common to run kanger coils over 500 degrees.

Holy crap, that one is even funnier!

 

[Kh888]

Wattage does not mean the same thing in a temperature controlled application. When you use thin kanthal wires at low wattage, you are likely exceeding 600 degrees at the coil, possibly by far. You MUST adjust temperature on a temperature controlled device to get the vape you want. It's not an option.

It is common to run kanger coils over 500 degrees.

Trust me, I confess that many things escape me and this could be one of them. However, I do know that when I increase the temp on my DNA40 to 400 degrees or over, the vape is considerably hotter. It is not imagined on my part and I have had a couple of friends try my device and they experience the same thing, so its not just me.


Yet, I do have concern that this particular DNA40 is not functioning entirely correctly. My other device does not have this issue. I would be interested in you further clarifying your comment. Perhaps there is something I just don't understand? Thanks!

 

[dr g]

It can't really be clearer.

 

[Confuzzled1969]

The problem is the Kangertech OCC coils.

The connection of the coil relies on a very loose press fitting. This fitting is the coils legs trapped between the center pin and the insulator, and another between the insulator and outer section of the coil head.

Until they find a way to make a much better mechanical connection or the leads are bonded in some other way to the metal, there will be slight fluctuations in resistance, these fluctuations are seen by the DNA40 as changes in temperature and it adjusts for it.

Plain and simple, a change in resistance is seen as a change in temperature and DNA adjusts for it.

I have two Sub-tank mini's and two nano's. I have not figured out why the OCC coils work better in the nano vs the mini, but they definitely do.

The RBA section is way more reliable in the mini and that is my go to now.

 

[ThunderDan]

The problem is the Kangertech OCC coils.

The connection of the coil relies on a very loose press fitting. This fitting is the coils legs trapped between the center pin and the insulator, and another between the insulator and outer section of the coil head.

Until they find a way to make a much better mechanical connection or the leads are bonded in some other way to the metal, there will be slight fluctuations in resistance, these fluctuations are seen by the DNA40 as changes in temperature and it adjusts for it.

Plain and simple, a change in resistance is seen as a change in temperature and DNA adjusts for it.

I have two Sub-tank mini's and two nano's. I have not figured out why the OCC coils work better in the nano vs the mini, but they definitely do.

The RBA section is way more reliable in the mini and that is my go to now.

I am not trying to disagree, I'm still on my first nickel OCC, but the resting resistance seems very stable. It does not change, only my dna40 thinks it changes after refinement. The resting resistance is continually 0.15ohm on this OCC, after refinement it is 0.12ohm, if I make the DNA 40 detect it as a new coil, it will once again be .15ohm. Am I honestly to believe the coils resting resistance actually change to .12 and then magically 10 seconds later go back to .15?



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Confuzzled1969]

I am not trying to disagree, I'm still on my first nickel OCC, but the resting resistance seems very stable. It does not change, only my dna40 thinks it changes after refinement. The resting resistance is continually 0.15ohm on this OCC, after refinement it is 0.12ohm, if I make the DNA 40 detect it as a new coil, it will once again be .15ohm. Am I honestly to believe the coils resting resistance actually change to .12 and then magically 10 seconds later go back to .15?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I am not sure we are seeing the changes in resistance that the DNA is seeing. If we could the display should show the resistance increase as we fire it...

I am going to get some lead free solder and attach the coil leads to the head with it and see if the issue goes away, don't know when I will get the time to do it, but if it solves the issue I will know without a doubt it is the connections in the pre built coils.

 

[a tez]

I am not trying to disagree, I'm still on my first nickel OCC, but the resting resistance seems very stable. It does not change, only my dna40 thinks it changes after refinement. The resting resistance is continually 0.15ohm on this OCC, after refinement it is 0.12ohm, if I make the DNA 40 detect it as a new coil, it will once again be .15ohm. Am I honestly to believe the coils resting resistance actually change to .12 and then magically 10 seconds later go back to .15?



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

The resting resistance does not matter with the OCC. What matters is the reading after refinement. The coils for me have anywhere between a .15-18 resting resistance, and then refine down to .12-.14ohms. You will only be vaping at resting resistance for a short while until it goes through refinement.

Making the DNA 40 detect the same coil as a new coil is not recommended. It will just go through refinement again and you will have to adjust your settings again.

I recommend using the Mini RTA if you can (if you have a Mini). It is much more accurate, you are able to secure the legs properly, and the legs are not as long as the OCC, so it doesn't mess with the temperature reading. I had a resting resistance of .12ohms and after refinements and 24 hours of use, it is still .12ohms. I have it set to 480F at 27watts and it's perfect. No signs of the cotton browning because the wick is staying saturated.

 

[a tez]

I am not sure we are seeing the changes in resistance that the DNA is seeing. If we could the display should show the resistance increase as we fire it...

I am going to get some lead free solder and attach the coil leads to the head with it and see if the issue goes away, don't know when I will get the time to do it, but if it solves the issue I will know without a doubt it is the connections in the pre built coils.

Brandon from Evolv recommended that Kanger should solder the leads closer to the actual coil and it would help with the temperature readings and have a more solid connection.

 

[Confuzzled1969]

The resting resistance does not matter with the OCC. What matters is the reading after refinement. The coils for me have anywhere between a .15-18 resting resistance, and then refine down to .12-.14ohms. You will only be vaping at resting resistance for a short while until it goes through refinement.

Making the DNA 40 detect the same coil as a new coil is not recommended. It will just go through refinement again and you will have to adjust your settings again.

I recommend using the Mini RTA if you can (if you have a Mini). It is much more accurate, you are able to secure the legs properly, and the legs are not as long as the OCC, so it doesn't mess with the temperature reading. I had a resting resistance of .12ohms and after refinements and 24 hours of use, it is still .12ohms. I have it set to 480F at 27watts and it's perfect. No signs of the cotton browning because the wick is staying saturated.

This is precisely what I am seeing, the RBA section is reliable and the refinement either works or it doesn't adjust anything and my temp stays the same with very consistent vaping. In the OCC coils, the resistance is changing, thus the DNA refines the readings and I get inconsistent vapes and have to adjust it...

But again, if I am able to solder the coil leads instead of having just a press fitting, I think it will solve the problems with the OCC coils.

 

[ThunderDan]

The resting resistance does not matter with the OCC. What matters is the reading after refinement. The coils for me have anywhere between a .15-18 resting resistance, and then refine down to .12-.14ohms. You will only be vaping at resting resistance for a short while until it goes through refinement.

Making the DNA 40 detect the same coil as a new coil is not recommended. It will just go through refinement again and you will have to adjust your settings again.

I recommend using the Mini RTA if you can (if you have a Mini). It is much more accurate, you are able to secure the legs properly, and the legs are not as long as the OCC, so it doesn't mess with the temperature reading. I had a resting resistance of .12ohms and after refinements and 24 hours of use, it is still .12ohms. I have it set to 480F at 27watts and it's perfect. No signs of the cotton browning because the wick is staying saturated.

Oh, I'm not doing that, was just noting what I've noticed, usually the only time I make it detect it as a new coil is when I'm switching attys and it asks me. I just leave it at .12ohm, and funny enough also have it set on 480F, but 24W, and its been fine.

 

[congaman]

Kanger temp sense coils.....ehhh-- fiddle,fiddle,fiddle. Lemo drop built to 0.14, NI200 28ga, 420f, @20.5 watts, KGD cotton, Vaporshark rDNA....Oh hell yes!!!