KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[cigatron]

Just thinking out loud here: I wonder if the new rba will flood at lower wattages with using less than 75vg like my Eleaf Egrip rba does. It has holes in the chimney too and allows air the enter the tank TOO easy unless you put the wick tails against the holes. Even if you do it changes wildly in regards to juice delivery as the wick gets older or moves out of place. I don't like that....I like the "set it and forget it" scenario that the kayfun style (STmini rba included) tanks offer. Forcing me to plug openings with wicking just doesn't float my boat....too much fiddly. And yeah, I like to vape my tanks to the last drop too Vin. It helps reduce ghosting when changing from one flavor to the next.

I have a coiling and wicking process that really works great at 30w for my STmini using juice from 50-75vg. Down pat and fiddly free....don't go changing the best RTA on the market for midrange wattage Kanger! End rant.

 

[aldenf]

I don't think putting you own juice channels in the new STM would buy you anything, once past the holes you will lose vacuum so you still can't vape to the bottom of the tank.

Looks like they modified the RBA to try and fix portions that people were having various issues with. I'm not sure they way they went about it makes it better without creating other problems. We will see.

I need to get a couple of spares before for the old style is gone, but I'll pick up a new on to check it out.

The reason they changed the RBA head is vapers were complaining it wouldn't vape at 50W. Duh... The Kayfun-style atomizers were engineered when 15W was the de facto standard. Stellar vapes can be achieved with 20W or less, providing amazing flavor and copious vapor. However, a cloud-chasing device it ain't. The new RBA heads should make the voluminous vapers very happy.

 

[vincom]

i think u would need more airflow to vape at higher wattages but the airflow seems exactly the same on the new rba which makes the reason for the redesign moot.
as for flooding if adding juices channels - users have added side holes to the old rba style for higher vg juice and seems to not flood, just have to make sure wick is covering holes sufficiently .
new deign seems alot easier to take apart, no more stuck chimney.

 

[cigatron]

Stuck rba chimney? Never. I figured out how remove them easily a while back. Should have posted then. I guess late is better than never soooo:

To remove the chimney and chimney cap I use both to help remove each other. Most peeps already know that squeezing the chimney without the cap on is a surefire way NOT to get the chimney loose....it distorts (ovalizes) and binds right? Same with trying to remove the cap from the chimney if the chimney has already been removed from the rba. So don't "remove" either the chimney or cap before getting BOTH of them broken loose.

So if your chimney is stuck on the rba put the cap back on lightly, then squeeze/grip the chimney AT THE CAP to break the chimney loose from the rba.

If the cap is stuck on the chimney put the chimney back on the rba lightly, then squeeze/grip the chimney AT THE RBA to break the cap loose from the chimney.

This trick works every time with any RTA and I no longer have to worry about overtightening parts.

 

[vincom]

tried it but nogo for me, cap turns b4 chimney does.
my only solution was to tap the rba on a hard surface until it would brake loose, i doesnt happen all the time but when it does its a pita

 

[cigatron]

tried it but nogo for me, cap turns b4 chimney does.
my only solution was to tap the rba on a hard surface until it would brake loose, i doesnt happen all the time but when it does its a pita

With the cap installed squeeze/grip the chimney directly over the cap threads. That should temporarily lock the cap and allow you to break the chimney loose without the cap trying to unscrew.

 

[glasseye]

Thought I'd drop this here too. I got some STM acrylic bell caps from FT last week and made them top fill. That's the only thing I don't like about the STM, having to unscrew the whole thing to fill it. I have NO idea how this would work with the ready made coil heads, don't use them.
Used a 1/16" drill bit in a wire vise, chef's torch to heat the bit and a mini bench vise to hold it. The side one went through like butter, the top one took a few times of reheating the bit and poking. It may leave a bit of melted acrylic on the outside, but a small metal file took care of it. Originally, I was going to leave the hole open, but you can't. It leaks. I used the extra screws from the STM RDA and they fit perfectly except for the length. I was thinking the old genesis bungs might fit, but I don't have any of that anymore. The screws, gently screwed in, work great. No leaks at all today in the side-fill and it was filled to the top. (while it was on it's side) The screws could be shorter to look better, but not having to screw the whole tank off to refill is awesome.

 

[cigatron]

@glasseye, hope the screw continues to seal good for you. You probably already understand that even the smallest leak will break the tank vacuum and cause flooding?Leaking if it gets bad enough?

As far as filling I find the subtanks to be easier and faster to fill than any of my other tanks that have fill screws or fill plugs. I just hold my rig upside down, leave the base attached to my mod, unscrew the tank, fill and screw the tank back on....takes less than 15 seconds.

The Acrylic Bell Cap looks pretty cool. Congrats on your top fill mod. Acrylic is allergic to cinnamon flavored juices so be careful there....

 

[vjdossey]

Does anyone know which vendors have the rba with the larger juice channels? Not the holes. I know people speak of two versions, one that came out after the first with slightly bigger channels in it. I want to order a few of those in case they discontinue them for the big hole in the side version.
It is too often that I vape to the last drop and in my opinion the new one doesn't seem like a good candidate for me. Not to mention another learning curve I am not sure I am ready for. TIA!

 

[cigatron]

Does anyone know which vendors have the rba with the larger juice channels? Not the holes. I know people speak of two versions, one that came out after the first with slightly bigger channels in it. I want to order a few of those in case they discontinue them for the big hole in the side version.
It is too often that I vape to the last drop and in my opinion the new one doesn't seem like a good candidate for me. Not to mention another learning curve I am not sure I am ready for. TIA!

Only one poster measured theirs and said the larger ones were .2mm larger if I remember. Could just be how they measured them, don't know, but .2mm larger is only about 2 strands of hair larger. Insignificant IMO. I have never measured a difference from the initial release to the newly arrived ones I measured last week at my local B&M.

 

[vjdossey]

Only one poster measured theirs and said the larger ones were .2mm larger if I remember. Could just be how they measured them, don't know, but .2mm larger is only about 2 strands of hair larger. Insignificant IMO. I have never measured a difference from the initial release to the newly arrived ones I measured last week at my local B&M.

Perfect, makes things easier for me thanks for the info. [emoji1] now I don't need to hunt!

 

[EyesoreJr]

Ok, erlkonigin vs Kanger Subtank mini. Anyone's thoughts?

 

[SUPER K]

Stuck rba chimney? Never. I figured out how remove them easily a while back. Should have posted then. I guess late is better than never soooo:

To remove the chimney and chimney cap I use both to help remove each other. Most peeps already know that squeezing the chimney without the cap on is a surefire way NOT to get the chimney loose....it distorts (ovalizes) and binds right? Same with trying to remove the cap from the chimney if the chimney has already been removed from the rba. So don't "remove" either the chimney or cap before getting BOTH of them broken loose.

So if your chimney is stuck on the rba put the cap back on lightly, then squeeze/grip the chimney AT THE CAP to break the chimney loose from the rba.

If the cap is stuck on the chimney put the chimney back on the rba lightly, then squeeze/grip the chimney AT THE RBA to break the cap loose from the chimney.

This trick works every time with any RTA and I no longer have to worry about overtightening parts.

Wish I'd known that earlier. I destroyed my first RBA after trying to "gently" take it apart with pliers. It was a first gen anyhow so I don't feel bad about using the hammer method on it.

 

[chopdoc]

am i the only one concerned about the new rba w/the holes on the side.
it means i cant vape if juice is below the holes which is how the the occ coils are.
i like the original stmini rba as the juice channels are at the base of tank and i can vape it to the last drop of juice. 4ml tank is a 4ml tank not 3ml
might have to mod the new rba w/some juice channels lol

I can and have a few times ran mine until there was not a single drop in the tank with no dry hits, but that is on the stock OCC heads. Havent tried the RBA deck yet but the OCC heads have holes in the middle too.

 

[chopdoc]

Well guys, i am on tank # 15 for my original .5 ohm coils and flavor & cloud production is still great. So far I have run around 3 1/2 bottles of Unicorn Milk thru mine thats 70/30 and maybe 3 tanks of a Strawberry Cream juice that I mix up at 80/20 so thats around 70 ish ml of juice I vaped on the original coil and it is still going strong.

 

[Pocha]

Ok, erlkonigin vs Kanger Subtank mini. Anyone's thoughts?

Up until the subtank mini the Erl was my favorite tank. Admittedly, I haven't tried all the others but of all the the one's I've tried (KFL, Kayfun 4 and the ErlPrinz) the subtank is quickly becoming my new favorite.

The kanger is easier to wick, has better airflow and the flavor is at least as good if not better that the Erl. The Erl is slightly easier to fill, is lighter and holds a ton of juice but if I only could have 1 tank it would be the subtank.

 

[vincom]

PBusardo Review - Kanger Subox Mini

 

[EyesoreJr]

of all the the one's I've tried (KFL, Kayfun 4 and the ErlPrinz) the subtank is quickly becoming my new favorite.

Thanks for the response. I had a KFL as well and it was all I used until the Kayfun 4 came out. Got used to better airflow with that but that thing was just a big heavy beast of an atty. when The Erlkonigin came out I waited a few months for a clone but ended up getting the ErlPrinz instead. I ended up getting the STM because I got tired of my Prinz. I always had one of two problems with it. Either I wicked it so it didn't leak and got dry hits or, I'd wick it so it vaped well and every frickin' time I filled it I would lose half a ml or so out of the bottom! Then I would have to clean up after it before I would go out. I really tried with it. I loved the size, weight, capacity of the Prinz but filling a tank should take maybe 5 minutes not 15!

The kanger is easier to wick, has better airflow and the flavor is at least as good if not better that the Erl. The Erl is slightly easier to fill, is lighter and holds a ton of juice but if I only could have 1 tank it would be the subtank.

I honestly think the STM is easier to fill. As for the airflow, completely agree with you! After using the STM for a week I checked the airflow on my Prinz to compare and it felt tight to me. I used the Prinz with the airflow off and the STM is on the medium or middle hole and the STM STILL has better airflow! If Kanger could make a straight RTA version of the STM that was shorter, had the same airflow, and about a half ml more juice capacity I would be in vape heaven!

 

[cigatron]

Does anyone know which vendors have the rba with the larger juice channels? Not the holes. I know people speak of two versions, one that came out after the first with slightly bigger channels in it. I want to order a few of those in case they discontinue them for the big hole in the side version.
It is too often that I vape to the last drop and in my opinion the new one doesn't seem like a good candidate for me. Not to mention another learning curve I am not sure I am ready for. TIA!

Only one poster measured theirs and said the larger ones were .2mm larger if I remember. Could just be how they measured them, don't know, but .2mm larger is only about 2 strands of hair larger. Insignificant IMO. I have never measured a difference from the initial release to the newly arrived ones I measured last week at my local B&M.

Correction to my reply above. There WAS an intial release rba that had smaller juice channels. The channels also weren't machined all the way through the rba base flange. My bad. That rba was quickly taken off the market by kanger. In fact, I bought my STminis from two different sources within 1 month of initial release and received the current version rba in both. Picture below shows initial release rba on the right and current version on the left.

@vjdossey, I should have said that all "mine" measured the same instead of using the words "intitial release" in my reply to your question....sorry about that V...

 

[vjdossey]

Correction to my reply above. There WAS an intial release rba that had smaller juice channels. The channels also weren't machined all the way through the rba base flange. My bad. That rba was quickly taken off the market by kanger. In fact, I bought my STminis from two different sources within 1 month of initial release and received the current version rba in both. Picture below shows initial release rba on the right and current version on the left.

View attachment 461731

@vjdossey, I should have said that all "mine" measured the same instead of using the words "intitial release" in my reply to your question....sorry about that V...

Thanks for clarifying, now I will be able to compare mine to pics. Either way, this means when I order a couple extras to just hold onto, I'll still get the ones with bigger juice channels