KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[chopdoc]

Been vaping all night on the RBA deck it its performance is outstanding! Not a single leak out of two tanks and flavor is great. I wicked it the same way I would wick a kayfun or Lemo and it works perfectly. Also running 80/20 juice and its feeding with no problems at all. Was worried it might be a bit too thick but its not.

 

[Elipse2Be]

Hey guys I have another question for you all. I've made a. 5 ohms rba coil and was vaping at around 25-30 w. Once in awhile it will like shoot up to like maybe 1.6ohms and I can taste the burn cotton. But after a while it went back to 0.5ohms again. Did anyone experience this before?

 

[cigatron]

Hey guys I have another question for you all. I've made a. 5 ohms rba coil and was vaping at around 25-30 w. Once in awhile it will like shoot up to like maybe 1.6ohms and I can taste the burn cotton. But after a while it went back to 0.5ohms again. Did anyone experience this before?

Probably just a loose coil leg screw or a loose rba. Make sure the rba ia screwed into the base tight.

 

[Elipse2Be]

Probably just a loose coil leg screw or a loose rba. Make sure the rba ia screwed into the base tight.

Ohh, i was pretty sure i screwed it tight this morning. But meh, I shall take note of it the next time and see if it occurs again. Thanks!

 

[cigatron]

Ohh, i was pretty sure i screwed it tight this morning. But meh, I shall take note of it the next time and see if it occurs again. Thanks!

In the beginning my rba would loosen a a little each time I removed the tank to fill it. I learned pretty quick to tighten the crap out of of the rba to stop that from happening. I also dicovered that just about ever rebuildable has to have the coil leg screws retightened after vaping them for a little while. The heating and cooling cycles can cause them to loosen at first. All is usually good for the life of the coil after retightening.

 

[Nailz]

Ohh, i was pretty sure i screwed it tight this morning. But meh, I shall take note of it the next time and see if it occurs again. Thanks!

Also make sure the bottom pin is screwed on tight on the bottom of the RDA, if it is loose can cause connection problems, found that one out myself with ohms moving around

 

[cigatron]

Also make sure the bottom pin is screwed on tight on the bottom of the RDA, if it is loose can cause connection problems, found that one out myself with ohms moving around

^yes that too^ thanks nailz.

 

[chopdoc]

Got home from my two weeks at work today and had vape mail. The two STM's I ordered showed up as well as the second IPV 4. Went ahead and wicked the RBA deck on one of the new ones as well as rewicked the one I been using and decided to try to start using up some of this Zamplebox juice I been having laying around. Its all max VG juice and the RBA heads do not feed well with it. At 20 watts serious burnt taste from both of them ( third one still in the box). Cut it down to 15 watts and it seems fine but guess I will have to bust out the dremel tomorrow and mod the RBA heads a bit, see if I can get them to feed juice a bit better. It seems the feed holes are so restrictive that it can barely get thicker juice into the wicks.

On the bright side, it is vaping fine at the moment at 15 watts, I just like my vape a bit warmer than that.

 

[cigatron]

Got home from my two weeks at work today and had vape mail. The two STM's I ordered showed up as well as the second IPV 4. Went ahead and wicked the RBA deck on one of the new ones as well as rewicked the one I been using and decided to try to start using up some of this Zamplebox juice I been having laying around. Its all max VG juice and the RBA heads do not feed well with it. At 20 watts serious burnt taste from both of them ( third one still in the box). Cut it down to 15 watts and it seems fine but guess I will have to bust out the dremel tomorrow and mod the RBA heads a bit, see if I can get them to feed juice a bit better. It seems the feed holes are so restrictive that it can barely get thicker juice into the wicks.

On the bright side, it is vaping fine at the moment at 15 watts, I just like my vape a bit warmer than that.

STminis or STmini Pluses?

 

[USMCotaku]

Check your wicking. I can vape 80/20 vg from the v1 sub tank without dry hits. Those have the smallest juice channels of all of them. Ensure the juice channels are completely unobstructed by the wick. Coil should be packed tight, but take should be thinned out. End of wick should just reach the deck.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[chopdoc]

STminis or STmini Pluses?

They are the newer subtank mini's. My first one I got about three weeks ago and using the OCC heads had no problems with 80/20 juice.

 

[cigatron]

They are the newer subtank mini's. My first one I got about three weeks ago and using the OCC heads had no problems with 80/20 juice.

Reason I ask is there is at least 3 versions of the STminis. The first change included larger juice channels and a different afc. The next two versions were afc changes only. The STmini "plus" has juice holes instead of juice channels. Until very recently the mini "plus" rba was only available if you purchased the Kanger Subox kit.

So, do you get mini rbas or mini "plus" rbas?

 

[chopdoc]

Looks like mini RBA's but the STM is generation 2 according to the Rip Tripper video I watched.

 

[chopdoc]

Here is what I ended up doing. I took the RBA and using a Dremel I cut a groove on each side of the RBA outer housing just below the coil and in line with the juice channels. Then I took a small drill bit in the Dremel and drilled a hole in each groove. Cleaned it all up, rewicked it so the wicking also touched the holes as well as the channel and put it back together. Hits like a freight train at 20W now with no gurgling. I am chain vaping it and its getting very warm which means the juice is thinning and still no gurgling, no leaks and performing flawlessly. I will post pics on it later when the tank is dry if anyone wants to see it.
Dont ask what size drill bit because I dont know and my calipers are at work well over hundred miles away.

 

[Mowgli]

Here is what I ended up doing. I took the RBA and using a Dremel I cut a groove on each side of the RBA outer housing just below the coil and in line with the juice channels. Then I took a small drill bit in the Dremel and drilled a hole in each groove. Cleaned it all up, rewicked it so the wicking also touched the holes as well as the channel and put it back together. Hits like a freight train at 20W now with no gurgling. I am chain vaping it and its getting very warm which means the juice is thinning and still no gurgling, no leaks and performing flawlessly. I will post pics on it later when the tank is dry if anyone wants to see it.
Dont ask what size drill bit because I dont know and my calipers are at work well over hundred miles away.

I did the same thing as per The Don's video.
I used a dremel to notch it and a 5/64 bit in my drill press.
Don't leave it laying on it's side.
Both, my Subox RBA+ & my modded original RBA make a puddle if left laying for long.
Nobody wants the wet spot.

 

[cigatron]

I did the same thing as per The Don's video.
I used a dremel to notch it and a 5/64 bit in my drill press.
Don't leave it laying on it's side.
Both, my Subox RBA+ & my modded original RBA make a puddle if left laying for long.
Nobody wants the wet spot.

What if you wick through the holes? Still leaks? Or maybe effects your max wattage or wick life?

 

[chopdoc]

I did the same thing as per The Don's video.
I used a dremel to notch it and a 5/64 bit in my drill press.
Don't leave it laying on it's side.
Both, my Subox RBA+ & my modded original RBA make a puddle if left laying for long.
Nobody wants the wet spot.

A wet spot could be a problem. Been thinking on it while out cutting grass and am thinking some work on the decks base probably would be best for it. Deepen the slot for it to feed a bit better.

 

[chopdoc]

This was turning out to be a real ordeal, until I discovered a hidden problem. I was working primarily on one RBA and it would work fine and then all of a sudden dry hits from hell. I would turn it down to 15 watts and things would be ok for a while with only an occasional dry hit. Then I started modding the second RDA and the real culprit reared its ugly head.
The second one unmodded I was vaping at 13 watts and getting lots of dry hits so this morning I modded it with the two holes as well as notching the bottom of the chamber barrel. The drill bit I am using fits perfectly in the OCC holes to give yall an idea of what size bit I am using. Well, drilled it, notched it, rewicked it and bumped it up to 20 watts like I liked with the OCC heads and it was a perfect vape. The original one that already was modded i could only vape at 15 watts and took a drag on it and it was a lot hotter than the one I had at 20 watts which I found odd. I looked at it and it was showing 1.3 ohms while the second one I just modded was showing .59 ohms. Odd to say the least. Took another drag from it and dry hit from hell. Looked again and it was at 2.7 ohms. Something not right here. Took it apart and the base wasnt exactly loose but also not exactly tight. Took a micro screw driver thru the air holes and cinched it up and now its reading .57 ohms and performing just as well as the other one at 20 watts.

So in a nut shell I was actually fighting two problems. One is it doesnt like high VG juice unless modded and the other problem was jumping ohm readings. I would suggest for those getting dry hits with the RBA to check how tight the bottom piece with the air holes is and put a little torque on it.

BTW, both of them I been laying on the sides and no leaks yet.

 

[cigatron]

This was turning out to be a real ordeal, until I discovered a hidden problem. I was working primarily on one RBA and it would work fine and then all of a sudden dry hits from hell. I would turn it down to 15 watts and things would be ok for a while with only an occasional dry hit. Then I started modding the second RDA and the real culprit reared its ugly head.
The second one unmodded I was vaping at 13 watts and getting lots of dry hits so this morning I modded it with the two holes as well as notching the bottom of the chamber barrel. The drill bit I am using fits perfectly in the OCC holes to give yall an idea of what size bit I am using. Well, drilled it, notched it, rewicked it and bumped it up to 20 watts like I liked with the OCC heads and it was a perfect vape. The original one that already was modded i could only vape at 15 watts and took a drag on it and it was a lot hotter than the one I had at 20 watts which I found odd. I looked at it and it was showing 1.3 ohms while the second one I just modded was showing .59 ohms. Odd to say the least. Took another drag from it and dry hit from hell. Looked again and it was at 2.7 ohms. Something not right here. Took it apart and the base wasnt exactly loose but also not exactly tight. Took a micro screw driver thru the air holes and cinched it up and now its reading .57 ohms and performing just as well as the other one at 20 watts.

So in a nut shell I was actually fighting two problems. One is it doesnt like high VG juice unless modded and the other problem was jumping ohm readings. I would suggest for those getting dry hits with the RBA to check how tight the bottom piece with the air holes is and put a little torque on it.

BTW, both of them I been laying on the sides and no leaks yet.

Right on, glad you got it figured out. Here's a question of curiosity fir you, in the modded one (with juice holes drilled and filed slots in the bottom of the chimney) where do the air bubbles enter the tank from? Through the holes or out through the bottom of the chimney?

 

[refuzeandrezizt]

The one I drilled, the air bubbles always come out from the bottom where the factory channels are. And yes, tightening that bottom section is a must.