KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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I am loving this. The nickel 26 ga wire showed up today and made a coil with it. 8 wraps on a 32 drill bit which is a hair smaller than 3 mm. Initially it ohmed out at .09 and once it was wicked and juiced it was down to .06 and once fired was at .04 and held there. This I built on the third new Kanger I got this week and been holding it just for this reason. Instead of drilling a hole in each side like Don's video showed instead I took a dremel cut off wheel and widened and deepened the feed slots.
I set my ipv 4 to joules and at 450 F and gave it a try at 20 joules. Out standing vape! Turned it up to 30 joules and even better! Far more vaper production, good temp and not a single bit of spitting or popping. Tried it at 40 joules and you can tell its turning itself on and off, on and off by the warmth and then cool, warmth and then cool, all on the draw. Turned it back down to 30 joules because for me, that seems perfect.
If you guys have not tried temp control yet, trust me, you will love it.
I set my ipv 4 to joules and at 450 F and gave it a try at 20 joules. Out standing vape! Turned it up to 30 joules and even better! Far more vaper production, good temp and not a single bit of spitting or popping. Tried it at 40 joules and you can tell its turning itself on and off, on and off by the warmth and then cool, warmth and then cool, all on the draw. Turned it back down to 30 joules because for me, that seems perfect.
If you guys have not tried temp control yet, trust me, you will love it.
I have a pack of Kanger OCC nickel coils but wanted to try the RBAs first.
Have you tried Kanger ni coils yet? Compare to ryo?
Lots of resistance issues with the kanger ni200 occ coils..... The grommet/pin design is fine for vw/vv but not the greatest for TC mods
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Agreed. It's not the best way to terminate the coil leads for TC. Kanger's implementation must be especially terrible because Aspire, Eleaf, Joyetech, etc are all using similar methods and I don't hear a ton of complaining about those TC heads.
Does anyone know a place where I can buy the new peek insulators for the Mini RBA?
I know Sweetvapes is selling them but you're only allowed to order 1.
I know Sweetvapes is selling them but you're only allowed to order 1.
So far ran a tank thru the third RBA with the nickel coil and only problem I had was it told me twice it said shorted which I believe was the IPV 4 fault. It happened when the mod was in sleep mode and once I pressed both the two small button together to read the resistance, it worked again.
As for the other two STM's I have, one of them leaked a bit and when the juice is below the hole it seems like the hit becomes dryer. The leaking i believe is because I didnt wick it right, I am gonna notch the feed groove deeper on both of them and put a nickel coil on them. I have two IPV 4's now and will pick up another one tomorrow.
As for the other two STM's I have, one of them leaked a bit and when the juice is below the hole it seems like the hit becomes dryer. The leaking i believe is because I didnt wick it right, I am gonna notch the feed groove deeper on both of them and put a nickel coil on them. I have two IPV 4's now and will pick up another one tomorrow.
I got mine from Sweet Vapes, I don't know of anywhere else. You might try ordering one now, wait awhile and order another.
Rant - Just did first nickel build on the RBA section. What a PITA !!! What were you thinking Kanger? Almost no room to thread the coil leads under the screws. I know this been talked about ad nauseum. But, it's working ok at .086 ohms, 420 deg, 25J on SX Mini M. Got to look for tank that has a deck that's easier to build on. Afraid my STM is going to have use Nickel OCC coils exclusively. Not looking forward to doing this again.
I just built my second nickel coil and dont see what the problem is. Turn the screws out 3 full turns. Take your coil and slide one lead in and cinch it down, then you have plenty of room to just slip the second lead between the screw head and its side. Plenty of room without having to snake it in. Cinch it down, re=insert your drill bit or screw driver or whatever you use and center the coil and then break of the excess from the leads and your done. Easiest RBA deck i built on because nickel is a lot easier t work with than kanthal IMHO.
Yeah. I've found the STM to be the easiest tank to build on with nickel.
No problems here either. Except that when I pull the Japanese cotton through the coil, it easily gets deformed. But that's nickel and has nothing to do with the STM.
They're asking $6 + to ship to Europe. I can almost buy a new RBA for that money.
Yeah, but if you ever need another, it would be worth having. You are only paying about $3.00 more in shipping than it cost me, so doesn't sound too bad.
Agree, Agree and Agree. Absolutely the easiest RTA to rebuild on the market. Raising the screwheads far enough to just slide the coil legs in is the key.
After hearing all the hype on Rayon, I bought a zip lock bag full of a Rayon rope that will last me for thousands of coils. Does it wick any better than cotton? Not that I can tell but i have it and might as well use it, and it works fine in a nickel coil. I will cut an inch or so off and thats enough for three coils.
The pre made yarns and ropes often have stuff in them not good for vaping. My Sally's rayon wicks quite s bit better then JOC in my experience. Just make sure you pack the coil tighter then with cotton.... Rayon doesn't expand when wet like cotton does
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