KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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A lot of the fasttech clones are dirt cheap and work just as well as the original on the Toptanks. The only thing bad about the clone Toptanks on Fasttech are the coils installed in them. .15 ohm nickel with no warning that it is nickel. Lousy coil anyway. I prefer the genuine base and it is under $5 on fasttech. Then the clone tank with it is fine also about $5. Put it together with genuine coils or RBA and good as the original for cheap.
$4.86 Authentic KangerTech Replacement Airflow Control Valve for Toptank Mini Clearomizer - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
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$5.16 Replacement Tank Set for KangerTech Toptank Mini Clearomizers - 4ml / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$4.86 Authentic KangerTech Replacement Airflow Control Valve for Toptank Mini Clearomizer - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Like this one
$5.16 Replacement Tank Set for KangerTech Toptank Mini Clearomizers - 4ml / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Soon as I saw that you can use the cleito glass I shot a couple into my FT cart. Been waiting on printed bug screen for the door and that dreaded "restocking" is now there along with another week ETA....canceled the screen. Should be a couple weeks now and my only toptank mini can be back in service. The drawback of building mighty fine coils is you always seem to be refilling the atty so a bit larger tank is welcomed.
Not that im having any wicking issues , anyone enlarge the the holes on the RBA V2 plus.
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I swapped out with my previous STM’s RBA, which has larger juice holes. I’m thinking of getting several of these RBA’s as a quick backup. Pre-wick them so they’ll be as convenient as a pre-made factory coil.
An excellent strategy. Also, hold on to the orig OCC assemblies. They dismantle with a little effort. Then adjusted, i.e. shaved, trimmed, filed etc. to make disassembly easier. Advantage?
The OCC can take more varied and robust winds that'll far outperform anything in the RBA. I like the deck for <30 tab builds. But the first replaceable can really stoke the KST. Kanger bad and did us wrong to lock 'em up.
But if you happen to disagree y'all go ahead and send me your old OCC assemblies. I'll def put 'em to good use. Glad to have to help folks quit with rebuilding. And you can't get much easier than that. Just better.
Cood luck.
I started rebuilding my OCC's. Haven't broke out a new coil in a long time. Of course I also have several RBA's wicked and ready.
It's a sleeper solution a lot of people miss. Still lots of the older OCC heads sitting around in dealer stock waiting to be found with a little patient looking.
Good luck.
The several STM kits I got dirt cheap from healthcabin a while back, the RBA had a smaller juice hole and then called it improved...shrug. I just drilled them all out to match the larger hole and they work just dandy.
I have rebuilt a few of the OCC heads and they just don't stack up to the RBA. I was not happy with the vape from the rebuilt factory head so haven't really used them. Most of the ones I have are vertical coils and just a few horizontal coil heads I have. Gonna one day take a vertical coil apart to remove the excess inards then see if I can drill a hole in the side.
I'm still vaping the original STM gear I bought over 3 years ago. So far just a couple glass sleeves and the RBA positive screw broke at the top while I was cleaning it been broken. The only drawback of the STM just like the protanks is the positive insulator in the base begins to decompose cause its not PEEK and good luck finding STM positive insulators. I pulled out the caliper and went on a insulator mission, the closest I could find are these insulators. The base isn't as thick so its a tad short, bit wide in the ID(a couple wraps of copper foil tape too solve) but they fit good and do work in a pinch.
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Thx for the info. If you have the dim's you might be able to confirm if these will work. These come up in a goog for Kanger pin insulator and vary slightly from your suggest alter…
$2.47 Center Pin Insulator for NoName Plug-In Atomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
The "head" of this insulator is 5.6mm, and closer to the factory red and peek of ~6mm. As to the neck o.d. should be ~4.25mm and 3mm corresponding to the pin. But hard to say from the pics in either case.
yours:
$4.20 Replacement PEEK Deck Insulator for Taifun BT RTA Atomizer (10-Pack) 10-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
It was an impressive accomplishment to put a rebuildable tank RDA out there. But Kanger quickly played games making it less user friendly to rebuild after some good efforts with the first slotted juice flow version. Since, I think they feel there's no return on these minor parts as its just fine if they have to reorder rba's along with coil assembles when they wear out after too short a time.
Don't blame fasttech either…it's an attitude that's been pervasively commonplace from OEM to the retailer in keeping us reigned in to their consumables supply. Pick up a dollar to pick up a dime mentality as we'd just spend the savings on getting more good gear.
Rather than ensure our enjoyment of more and better of their products however they assure the opposite. The fools who nickel and dime us.
My little rant on product supply. You'd never buy a toaster that needed a new power plug after limited use. But vapers! Now there's another animal entirely. The ultimate disposable consumer. Why not? We've got a million of 'em.
Good luck.
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Things like the RBA and bases I buy the genuine product but the toppers, the bellcaps work great and for me been lasting years of regular use. Just be sure the coil is low enough not to melt the chimney, mighty tastee.
The noname insulators are shorter than the talifun one but with it being shorter you might slide a kayfun fill oring as a spacer for the pin.
They seem to try to force you to buy the latest by not supplying some parts and then never have them instock. I bought most of my STM attys early so they came with extra chimney and set screws in the goodie bag. I really don't understand why the STM base insulator hasn't been cloned into PEEK.
There are those of us who don't care nor need the latest and rely on reliability and dependability in a atty and in my household its the STM RBA that keeps my wife happy with hassle free vaping.... Now that I could fatten up her toptank atty with a cleito glass and add a mil or two...even happier wife not having to split the STM to fill after I broke her top tank glass.
The noname insulators are shorter than the talifun one but with it being shorter you might slide a kayfun fill oring as a spacer for the pin.
They seem to try to force you to buy the latest by not supplying some parts and then never have them instock. I bought most of my STM attys early so they came with extra chimney and set screws in the goodie bag. I really don't understand why the STM base insulator hasn't been cloned into PEEK.
There are those of us who don't care nor need the latest and rely on reliability and dependability in a atty and in my household its the STM RBA that keeps my wife happy with hassle free vaping.... Now that I could fatten up her toptank atty with a cleito glass and add a mil or two...even happier wife not having to split the STM to fill after I broke her top tank glass.
Thx for the info. Good advice too, stock spares early and often if you can't make due. Why I chose Kanger for research and demo. Lately I buy with a view to cannibalize. Authentics, ruggedness and that applies to spares as well. As I posted elsewhere, the Trinity glass on an ST (or most anything) is about as good as it gets. And yep, I've had that flavor experience with bells. Some taste better than others.
Good luck.Awesome tips. I posted in the new members forum yesterday that I'm rebuilding the kanger occ coils as well. People say they last for weeks but I'm lucky if I can get 5 days out of one. I was soaking them in everclear for 24 hours but then I found that if boil some water in the microwave and slosh the used coil around in it while holding the end with needle nose pliers, I can let them dry and reuse them for another 4 or 5 days. I do this 3 times on an atomizer before I carefully remove the coil, fire it clean and rewick it with a rig I built for the purpose. Ive heard it said that if you don't replace that little ring on the top, it will leak but I have not seen that. I think it's there as an electrical insulator between the top cap and coil and not a leak preventer. I still have 20 new coils I bought on line but am thinking about buying a bunch of the cheap ones off of eBay if for no other reason than to have the shells, bottom insulator and o-ring.
Good point on the micro wash. Bath and Bodyworks mini candle jars cleared of wax worked well for me in microwaves. Have a bunch. That's where everything goes for the pre-soak, then dryburn or other cleaning.
Honestly 3-5 days with cotton and any complex juice is damn good. You can extend that to the degree you increase coil diameter. You can keep the power level up if you correspondingly drop gauge (go slightly thicker). This works really well with the OCC well, cause it's bigger!
Now if you're using Kanthal, it shines if you make the alumina ceramic oxidation layer stable. Winding with strain as I've layed out ensures the most consistent top coat for that great paint job if you pulse oxidize the final coil once set. Then you're truly starting out with a perfectly symmetrical insulated tight wind which resists deterioration and runs very predictable consistent resistance…
All other kinds of contact winds will separate with pulsing due to the effects of repeated thermal expansion.
But you can perfectly precisely space a tensioned contact coil created on an open-top OCC by carefully separating turns with a plastic tip right on the bit, in the slots, so as not to mess the pretty finish. Be sure end-turns are finished as tight as the rest (not more) when you set.
And that'll do'er. Good luck brook.
I finally got around to putting these nifty Iwodevape Aspire Cleito glass sleeve onto my toptank mini. I was very surprised at how thick the glass is along with a perfect fit. The glass sticks out a bit so a vape band is mandatory to avoid breaking the glass again.
Well spent money on the Cleito glass vs regular replacement toptank glass. The added mil or two also is a bonus so if your on the fence to buy these glass sleeves, they are well worth it.
Well spent money on the Cleito glass vs regular replacement toptank glass. The added mil or two also is a bonus so if your on the fence to buy these glass sleeves, they are well worth it.
I have been using them without bands on them for months on multiple tanks. Have not broken one yet, the are unbelievably tough glass. But cheap enough to keep a good supply around.
Have also gotten used to the look and like it.
Most of those tank sets are discontinued but if you dig through them you can still find some ugly red combo's in stock.A lot of the fasttech clones are dirt cheap and work just as well as the original on the Toptanks. The only thing bad about the clone Toptanks on Fasttech are the coils installed in them. .15 ohm nickel with no warning that it is nickel. Lousy coil anyway. I prefer the genuine base and it is under $5 on fasttech. Then the clone tank with it is fine also about $5. Put it together with genuine coils or RBA and good as the original for cheap.
$4.86 Authentic KangerTech Replacement Airflow Control Valve for Toptank Mini Clearomizer - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Like this one
$5.16 Replacement Tank Set for KangerTech Toptank Mini Clearomizers - 4ml / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10020852/4484004
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