KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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Yeah... By the time Kanger switched to the New Style Coil-Heads, I was firmly entrench using the RBA Section also.
Who I felt Bad for was New Vaper's just making the Switch. And thought that Kanger could have Offered the TTM in either the Square or the Round Coil-Heads.
But it seems that Newer is Always Better in the minds of Most OEM Marketers. And "One Size Fits All" thinking gets more Thumbs Up in Company Product Meetings.
New isn't always better that is for sure. I have about a dozen different rta tanks. But mostly use the Toptank mini. I do also use the Engine Nano and occasionally an Augvape Merlin. But most of the others are stashed away and unused.
I have 9 of the Authentic Toptank with 15 of the authentic rba. I do up all the rba and have them as drop ins. I also have 6 of the clone Toptanks that were around $8 a piece. I did switch the base for an authentic base as I like the low profile base. The clones with the base are as good as the genuine with the only difference being that I can tell is they don't have Kangertech etched on them.
The older STMs are stashed as well. Too much trouble bottom filling them
I have 9 of the Authentic Toptank with 15 of the authentic rba. I do up all the rba and have them as drop ins. I also have 6 of the clone Toptanks that were around $8 a piece. I did switch the base for an authentic base as I like the low profile base. The clones with the base are as good as the genuine with the only difference being that I can tell is they don't have Kangertech etched on them.
The older STMs are stashed as well. Too much trouble bottom filling them
Those Low Profile Bases are Cool aren't they.
Better control of how much Air you get. And they Don't get Stuck if you haven't used it in awhile.
Better control of how much Air you get. And they Don't get Stuck if you haven't used it in awhile.
Horizontal still out there apparently as Gearbeast has them listed as available. But $15 for 5 is pretty expensive.
5pcs Genuine Kanger OCC 0.5Ohm E - Cigarette Heater Core Horizontal Heating Wire for Kanger Subtank - $15.00 Free Shipping|GearBest.com
You had given me the idea of having the extras when I first started building and I started that way from the beginning. I always keep a bunch premade and I carry one with me --always. Just like having drop-in coils...lol. Seriously it is very easy that way..... I've tried the dry burning and now will do it once or twice. (I am always chicken that I am going to set off my smoke alarm so I open the window and dry burn right by the screen --wonder what the neighbors (if they can see me), think I am doing.)
Usually, I just remove the coil and just pop in a new premade one. For the one I removed I throw out the coil and cotton and put it in its certain spot that I use and then once a week or even 2 - I build a few more. With as many as I have and have ordered, I could probably go for a month or longer without having to build.
I did have a few rba pieces go bad -- some original some not. I just ordered a few more and look at it as the price for having the rba. Besides, they are not too expensive and I would rather have a lot of them.
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$3 a coil is okay if they last a few weeks. For now I will just order a few rba heads. Thanks Beamslider.
Not toptank related but, I ended up getting this clone v5 rta from fasttech around 2 months ago. Just actually got around to building it and it is not bad. This is a large tank and looks good on a large mod. Holds a lot of juice.
$17.50 V5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 5-6ml / 316 stainless steel + glass / 25.5mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$17.50 V5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 5-6ml / 316 stainless steel + glass / 25.5mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I like the horizontal because I can rewick --thanks! (PS I do not like gearbest overall but I do think I will order a package since I have the nanos that can only use drop ins.)
I have a few of those K5's.They worked for a while but the orings started to fail which leads to gooey fingers.Not toptank related but, I ended up getting this clone v5 rta from fasttech around 2 months ago. Just actually got around to building it and it is not bad. This is a large tank and looks good on a large mod. Holds a lot of juice.
$17.50 V5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 5-6ml / 316 stainless steel + glass / 25.5mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
The chase for more production goes all the way back to the Aspire vert's and earlier micro vert experiments with clearo's notably the original and anemic Kanger Protank heads. It' always seemed to me counterintuitive to pack a coil from the outside so as to inhibit flow getting closest to the coil. The rapidly expanding vapor pushes outwardly against the juice supply. This must require higher power. Lots of flooding in those tests.
But for all who've come up on strictly externally wicked verticals it's a level of vapor density they're accustomed to. And reasonably more vapor should yield more flavor…except when you limit the supply source you tend to diffuse the vape reducing its density. So not really with verticals. They reach a density maximum more readily. And for cool MTL vapers there simply won't be enough there to begin with. The Holy Grail I think, the most natural geometry for a compact radiator, is the spiral. It's most favorable optimization, internal.
There really isn't a need to compromise though, as I've spoken to often. Spirals can be made better.
Good luck.
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I have a dozen STM rba's (all are genuine kanger) in the rotation, I always have a clean rba just to swap the coil into and clean the other later. The rba gets taken to pieces with every coil replacement and so far in the couple plus years of use I have broken the top couple threads on the airflow shaft(only 2 threads holding the rba together) rendering it useless along with being very fragile of one of the rba's. That oring in the screw cap part of the chimney can get loaded with old yuk but getting those rings out is very difficult and they are easy to stab into.
In some ways I can see why kanger discontinued the STM...they weren't making the money anymore. Me like I assume many others the STM was their final destination in a atty with no need to look further for new and maybe improved. Now that I know the RBA fits the toptank, not so concerned if I can buy STM anymore.
In some ways I can see why kanger discontinued the STM...they weren't making the money anymore. Me like I assume many others the STM was their final destination in a atty with no need to look further for new and maybe improved. Now that I know the RBA fits the toptank, not so concerned if I can buy STM anymore.
The same with better filling.
I actually like the original STM better. It's a little bigger (4.5 ml instead of 4), and the TTM seems to need the RBA with the smaller hole, higher up on the chimney to avoid leaking when top filling. That RBA doesn't allow you to drain the tank to the bottom.
I like both. I have been using all 3 versions of the rba in my Toptank for years with no problems.
I heard some folks have had success with the RBA with the bigger holes on the TTM, but mine leaked right through. I never tried again, but it sounds like if you pack in more wicking than I usually do it will work. I just haven't bothered since I'm happy with the STM.I like both. I have been using all 3 versions of the rba in my Toptank for years with no problems.
I never have a problem leaking while filling or if I did it was me (don't get side tracked with the top off), or vaping the later RBAs to the bottom.
But I do build vertical and I think that wicking helps keep it from flowing down the hole.
I've drilled most of my old RBAs. Even the ones I made the slots bigger.
Yep, that'll do ya Myk. Drill those pins out then we're vapin some powerful builds on the RBA or orig OCC…
Vert's on the ST tho, hit or miss for most of us methinks.
With the v2 (side air hole) RBA you need a lot of wicking to keep from flooding the deck (and mebe the air intake). I use two strategies. First, I center slot the wick before feeding it. That is, make it a bit thinner in the center of its length before installing it in the coil. Several ways to do it but I notch it. Sometimes a corner cut, others a thin sliver over the inner 50% of the wick. Fold the wick (easier with KGD and one side of the backing removed). This allows for substantial volume in the legs and a precise fit for the coil Ø you're running. Remember I like it chunky.
Even so (or because of those darn fat ones) wicks can get saturated if you tend towards low power (lots of chaining) or the tank drops towards half (vacuum change), as examples. For this, I run a thin strip of KGD backing across the open side of both posts, grain lengthwise. The grain of the wick runs upwards, the damn sideways. This often helps deter a wet build gettin runny and can be added in there on refill. As the intake gets wet the vape will suffer until finally poor if moisture reaches the base.
So damn those wicks and tighten their belts.
Good luck.
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Yep, that'll do ya Myk. Drill those pins out then we're vapin some powerful builds on the RBA or orig OCC…
Vert's on the ST tho, hit or miss for most of us methinks.
With the v2 (side air hole) RBA you need a lot of wicking to keep from flooding the deck (and mebe the air intake). I use two strategies. First, I center slot the wick before feeding it. That is, make it a bit thinner in the center of its length before installing it in the coil. Several ways to do it but I notch it. Sometimes a corner cut, others a thin sliver over the inner 50% of the wick. Fold the wick (easier with KGD and one side of the backing removed). This allows for substantial volume in the legs and a precise fit for the coil Ø you're running. Remember I like it chunky.
Even so (or because of those darn fat ones) wicks can get saturated if you tend towards low power (lots of chaining) or the tank drops towards half (vacuum change), as examples. For this, I run a thin strip of KGD backing across the open side of both posts, grain lengthwise. The grain of the wick runs upwards, the damn sideways. This often helps a wet build and can be added on refill. As the intake gets wet the vape will suffer until finally poor if moisture reaches the base.
So damn those wicks and tighten their belts.
Good luck.
I was cleaning this weekend, retiring STM for TT and noticed a VW clapton STM RBA barrel has huge side holes and enlarged slots. I don't remember why but I'm sure I started with standard holes and moved bigger.
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