I found that this is the key to being able to use my max VG. I have to cut those suckers down to the point where I think I've cut too much and fluff em up so they are barely touching the deck. I think dialing back to the two holes also affects the pressure so that I can vape like crazy on this thing with no more dry hits. It also really made the flavor improve drastically without sacrificing much vapor. I think I'm finally content with this thing.
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
- Thread starter Vap0rnomics
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I found that this is the key to being able to use my max VG. I have to cut those suckers down to the point where I think I've cut too much and fluff em up so they are barely touching the deck. I think dialing back to the two holes also affects the pressure so that I can vape like crazy on this thing with no more dry hits. It also really made the flavor improve drastically without sacrificing much vapor. I think I'm finally content with this thing.
Thanks for the nod 3a. Yep, this tank is designed to max out vapor production with this chuncky 6mm wick/wire combo. Hey, isn't that what we wanted? But let me tell ya, this tank is a broad canvas. There's a lot of potential in this platform for a lot of approaches. And we shouldn't believe that it's all in the wire. Especially all you just starting to vape with these high-tech devices. We can tailor the vape we like with wire/wick/drip tip and airflow (draw).
Best effort from Kanger and vaporizer I've seen to date, particularly for it's diversity.
Good luck all.
p.s. All tanks work on vacuum pressure (above the fluid) to mediate flow. This is the most stable flow I've yet seen in a consumer tank. That's a good thing. But when hit hard, fast or frequently negative pressure builds in the tank and you will see dry or reduced vapor performance. If you think you might be seeing this, try covering the airhole/slot and blow very gently into your tip. This will slightly reduce the vacuum and bam, instant cloud (and flavor). It's the physical universe peeps. The closer we get to perfect the tighter, more demanding and focused a thing is. Always a compromise, a balance.
Last edited:
Or the opposite could be true.
I'm not sayin' that blocking the juice flow might not be a problem. But what difference does it make keeping it clear if there's not enough wicking media there to carry the flow?
Me, I'd pack a lot of media as much as the wind requires and split the wick (slightly) to make sure the fluid port is clear. Or you might not see the flow you're expecting and doubt your idea (which happens to be good). The thin, barely touching part, I'd lose.
Good luck bw.
p.s. Split-wick for an Immortalizer to catch the drip on both opposing interior walls (6/1/2014)
Or the opposite could be true.
I'm not sayin' that blocking the juice flow might not be a problem. But what difference does it make keeping it clear if there's not enough wicking media there to carry the flow?
Me, I'd pack a lot of media as much as the wind requires and split the wick (slightly) to make sure the fluid port is clear. Or you might not see the flow you're expecting and doubt your idea (which happens to be good). The thin, barely touching part, I'd lose.
Good luck bw.
p.s. Split-wick for an Immortalizer to catch the drip on both opposing interior walls (6/1/2014)…
Absolutely true. Thinning or spreading out the wick tails is going to diminish its ability to flow. It ruins the capillary action of the wick tails. Sure, its' logical to assume that covering a wider area for absorbtion would help but the speed of juice transport is more important than absorbency in this case. Capillary wins hands down.
Keeping the tails compacted together as much as possible while leaving the juice channels clear and dry hits will be a thing of the past.
Bw86, you're right on about the length of the wick tails. Cut them to just barely graze the deck but there is one gotcha to the program. The tails will lift off the deck when the wick gets saturated with juice because the fibers are absorbent and swell up. So I always cut the tails slightly longer to account for it. About .5mm. I do not do rabbit ears. I cut,wet and set the wick on the deck before screwing on the lower chimney. Final adjustments to clear the wick from the juice channels can then accomplished after the lower chimney is on.
One more trick I use to ensure that ALL the fibers are in contact with the deck is to cut the wick tails off at a 45° angle. That way when it gets bent downward all the fiber ends sit flat on the deck instead of just the inner ones. It's a "radius of the bend" thing.
Oh, and wick it chunky. Keep trying more and more wicking density until you KNOW it's negatively effecting juice transport. The more wick you use the faster it will transport juice; up to a certain point. When you get it right you should see an air bubble rise in the tank after every vape or two. Air no go inny; juice no come outty!
Whasamatta widja cig, don't like bunny's!???
Yeah, my concern with lead tail thinning or cropping, no contact.
Good idea notching.
Oh, and wick it chunky. Keep trying more and more wicking density until you KNOW it's negatively effecting juice transport. The more wick you use the faster it will transport juice; up to a certain point. When you get it right you should see an air bubble rise in the tank after every vape or two. Air no go inny; juice no come outty!
Yeah I like it chunky. It's that capillary thing you were talkin' about.
Have a good one bro. Good luck.
Last edited:
I've been keeping the wick as tight as possible inside the coil. When I'm due for a rewick then I'll do like you suggested and keep the wick together with better contact on the deck. It's performing so well right now that I don't want to mess with it. Thanks for the info though!
as most of this info is already posted:
addendum.
forgot to mention that the rayon is thick going into coil.
and slight angle cut so all/most of the wick ends touches deck, small/skinny sharp scissors are helpful.
great tank, my tongue gets hot though, waiting on a new drip tip.
vape lingers and lingers and lingers as its quite thick and heavy, in a small room it will look like smoke that wont dissipate.
stealth vaping is out of the question.
Last edited:
Thought I'd snap a couple of pics of wicking my Lemo. Same strategy for the STm. Coil symmetry is not the best on this worn out coil in my "coil life testing lemo" but should convey the 45° angle cuts and wick placement needed to stave off the dreaded and evil dryhit syndrome.
Angle cuts
Wetted and placed on deck
Channels cleared
Angle cuts
Wetted and placed on deck
Channels cleared
I covered this back here, if anyone wants to take a look. This is how I build and it's been pretty consistently good for me. Same thing goes with nickel builds. I do them the same way.
i was using that but i was getting the odd dry hit.
my problem was i had my coil closer to the air hole than urs, i suppose, and as such i needed to cut my ends closer(shorter) to the deck than was in ur pics..
on my next wick job i will move the coil higher of the deck and need slightly longer tails and test how that works
Last edited:
My nautilus tip is too tight. so tight thay I'm not even able to get it in upto the oring... However, I have a bunch of drip tips and will try different ones and see what I get
thank you
Oh wow mailman just dropped off my subtank mini. Took me 5 minutes if that too get it all prepped and filled put on the istick 30w. This thing is awesome. Clocking about a 2 second hit and it does really start to get hot. Lots of vapor and flavor. Turning my 12 mg into like 24mg easily. It looks really nice sitting on the istick 30 too. Really happy I decided to get this. Thanks for all the great info.
Congrats R, hot wind in that thing for sure...lol. Tore it out and went with twisted within 30min. Nice and cool.
Is it normal for the .5 coil to read .7? I imagine all the coils won't be exact but just wondering. I tightened the coil in good after dripping liquid on the cotton.
Anyone using nickel coils in RBA notice excessive popping? I have built a few Ni coils and it seems every one I've done pops throughout the draw. The build is a 28g 8wrap 2.5mmID spaced .11Ω coil. It gets pretty irritating because it will usually send juice out the drip tip when it pops.
I have also built more than a few kanthal coils, basically the same build (26g 6wrap 2.5mmID .8Ω spaced) and they are nice and smooth, no popping. Both are used on my rDNA40's.
I would venture to guess it has something to do with the power fluctuation while in "temperature protection" mode while using the nickel. Just wondering if is just me or if others have noticed it as well.
Edit: Both have been in the ST mini. Never really noticed with my Lemo's, but that may just be due to design differences.
I have also built more than a few kanthal coils, basically the same build (26g 6wrap 2.5mmID .8Ω spaced) and they are nice and smooth, no popping. Both are used on my rDNA40's.
I would venture to guess it has something to do with the power fluctuation while in "temperature protection" mode while using the nickel. Just wondering if is just me or if others have noticed it as well.
Edit: Both have been in the ST mini. Never really noticed with my Lemo's, but that may just be due to design differences.
Last edited:
Recieved my own subtank mini today from vapordna. Unhappy to see the RBA section has the clear insulator. Not too concerned as I don't plan to build too low on it, but I will definitely be asking them if they know the differences.
Anyway, here it is sitting on my DIY 110w box (TDK Lambda dc/dc converter). I had to change out the drip tip as the stock one got hot hot hot after a few hits. The one on it now is a friction fit wide bore delrin tip with copper sleeve (ebay special).
cheers.
Anyway, here it is sitting on my DIY 110w box (TDK Lambda dc/dc converter). I had to change out the drip tip as the stock one got hot hot hot after a few hits. The one on it now is a friction fit wide bore delrin tip with copper sleeve (ebay special).
cheers.
I've noticed a lot of inconsistency with the coils. Of my 4, 1.2 ohm coils, none actually read 1.2. They are between 1.0 and 1.4. So apparently not produced to a very precise standard.
It's made in an automated machine that spews out coils at an amazing speed. Phil Busardo has a video from when he visited kangertech's two factories. They actually do quite alot of quality assurance, perhaps not so much on the coils. But the rest of the tanks/devices gets an immense amount of testing.
Actually they are hand made and hand assembled with very rudimentary tools and appliances. Most of us do better duplicating them the first time out. History of vaping. But it's better and easier when we do it better. And we can!
Good luck.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked