KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[shreduhsoreus]

What site do y'all use to buy your kanthal and cotton?

If you already plan to order something off Amazon this is one of the best deals I've come across for Japanese cotton. I say "if you already plan" because it's an add on only item.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TCEXOS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AWU0LCF3WJ2TL

Or if you can wait for shipping from China and don't have anything else to order with it, this is even better.

http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Labo-O...sim_hpc_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=076RRHGTQCXM9HK40A0M

 

[vjdossey]

Kanthal?Kanthal Wire

Temco's Kanthal A1 is more consistant in res per foot than ebay or amazon suppliers imo. The last spool I received from amazon was from lightening vapes....it was 15% higher in res per foot than spec. Not close enough for the sub ohm builds on my mech mods.

I finally placed an order for more wire today. Got it at temco, free shipping Last time I orderd kanthal some where different and it came with a kink/bend every inch or so, was odd.. not ordering there again.

 

[vjdossey]

If the OCC is flooding its probably because you over primed it.

If the RBA is flooding its probably because there Isnt enough wick and /or you over primed it.

The only time Ive ever had leaking with my subtank mini was if my tank was half filled or less, and I opened my tank for whatever reason (to check a coil for gunkyness, make sure a build was good, etc) but didnt top off with juice afterwards, it would leak through the airholes when reassembled. Could be because a vacuum seal was broken or something and the juice creates the necessary pressure for it. To fix, just always top off with juice if you open your tank so the seal is reestablished.

I've been guilty of over priming my coils for sure! And this is probably the reason because after a few minutes of heavy vaping, it does go away...

Not enough wicking density. I know you said you tried more wick but maybe not enough? I have to slightly compress the wick by lightly rolling it between my fingers just to get it all through the coil. Not super tight in the coil but some resistance to pulling for sure. If it slides easily through the coil you're under wicked. I've got some pics somewhere I'll find and post here.



Edit, see post #749 for pics. I am able to vape 50/50 or 65/35 up to 25w with no dryhits wicked as shown in that post.

I can't believe I missed these pics... exactly what I needed to see at this point... I think I finally got a grip on how dense to get my wick. After seeing these pics, I see I am leavimg way too much length... Now, I want to get out of bed and rewick... lol but, it can wait til the morning...

Question that is a bit off topic... Does the lemo drop 5 ml tank have a deck much like the egrip rba as far as the way the coil legs attach? Does it have the lil holes the legs go in or do you have to wrap the legs around screws?

 

[alongo]

Yes

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

 

[thefleck]

For a quick change and somewhat better flavor. Much depending on build skills.

Do you ever have trouble melting through the insulator cuff? I always tried rebuilding my protanks the way it is commonly done, but the fact is, the factory wire is non-resistant where the insulators make contact, and there's no way to avoid burning the insulator...in my experience. Is there a way to get around this?

 

[medic181075]

I had a new problem with the Subtank Mini yesterday. I was running low on juice in the tank and decided it was time to refill. I turned my unit upside down and unscrewed the tank as I always do. The difference was that this time the RBA chimney section also unscrewed, leaving my coil and wick exposed. All attempts to screw this back together without making a mess were failed. The wick had expanded and was blocking the threads from easily going back together. I was completely baffled by this because this is at least the 6th of 7th time I have filled this tank with this build in it. Finally I accepted that I needed to sit down at a table and put this back together piece by piece.

If I hadn't been at home, this could have ruined my day. I'm not sure if this was a freak incident or if this is more common, but I will definitely be more aware of what my RBA is doing when I am unscrewing the tank in the future.

 

[cigatron]

Question that is a bit off topic... Does the lemo drop 5 ml tank have a deck much like the egrip rba as far as the way the coil legs attach? Does it have the lil holes the legs go in or do you have to wrap the legs around screws?

Yes VJ, the Egrip RBA build deck is essentially a miniaturized Lemo build deck. The juice delivery from the tank is different though, as you know; juice holes with the egrip, juice channels with the Lemo and STmini.

 

[cigatron]

Do you ever have trouble melting through the insulator cuff? I always tried rebuilding my protanks the way it is commonly done, but the fact is, the factory wire is non-resistant where the insulators make contact, and there's no way to avoid burning the insulator...in my experience. Is there a way to get around this?

The very reason I have abandoned rebuilding occ's Fleck. Kanger updated the Protank insulators to a clear silicone long ago which enabled the dryburning of an unwicked standard kanthal coil without burning the insulator/grommet. Not so with the occ. It seems that they have reverted back to an older polyurethane material and now we have to deal with the old "burny grommet" syndrome all over again. Bad choice on Kanger's part imo. In addition, the occ PU insulators split easily when using larger gauge wire. I just use the rba. Kudos to Kanger for that.

 

[DP2Raja]

I actually get better flavor from my RBA builds than the stock OCC heads. Not that they are bad, but they cannot match a twisted 28 coil. And using a twisted coil is not as easy to put in the OCC. Just my experience. I can rebuild and/or rewick the RBA in half the time as rebuilding the OCC. But I have been using rebuildable decks for the past 2 years...so it just seems simpler to me.

I ordered the RBA for the Delta 2 also. I wouldn't use the factory heads from Joyetech. Unfortunately they gouge you for another $12 to get it. Thank you Kanger for the included RBA.

 

[DavidAmonettNashville]

Could someone please explain the advantages of using Rayon in the rba section instead of the J.C. that kanger includes ?

 

[DP2Raja]

Could someone please explain the advantages of using Rayon in the rba section instead of the J.C. that kanger includes ?

I stand by Japanese cotton my self. I have used the rayon, but test show the cotton is actually a little better at wicking (PBusardo has a test on youtube) but it may differ with different PG/VG ratios. I am currently using a 50/50. PB's test may be incorrect too...but my experience is better with organic cotton. I think it is easier to wick and work with. Again, just my experience. But also, that is what I use so much that I know all the ins and outs of it so it may just be a 'comfort' thing.

With the Japanese cotton pads I cut my strip then pull/peel off the outer layer on front and back. Nothing but fluffy goes in my coils!

EDIT: And, no, 'fluffy' is not my dog's name.

 

[underwhelmd]

EDIT: And, no, 'fluffy' is not my dog's name.

LOL.

Interesting to hear how other people work with the cotton though. Thanks.

 

[RiceBurner95]

Could someone please explain the advantages of using Rayon in the rba section instead of the J.C. that kanger includes ?

None, in my opinion.

I've almost exclusively used Japanese cotton, except for the last week I've been using Drago Egyptian cotton. I really like the Drago. It has a slightly earthier taste than the JC. as far as the Rayon, I've never liked it very much. Doesn't seem to wick as well, and has a bad taste to me. And dry hits make me want to quit vaping all together.

 

[cigatron]

Same here with CC Rayon, bad taste. Some peeps can't taste it at all. CC Rayon does seem to wick a little faster than KGD in real life testing imo. Pretty happy with KGD myself. It's going to take a spectacular breakthrough in wicking medium to make me give up KGD; even then they may have to pry it from my cold dead hands.

@DP.....same here bro, noth'n but the fluffy stuff.

 

[pinkie1205]

I didn't read all the replies.
I LOVe this tank. I'm using the RBA section and I'm having good results even with the prebuilt coil. I'm even using regular organic cotton and not the Japanese cotton.
I changed my tip to one that has a slightly larger hole than the stock tip and I'm not having issues with the tip hearing up, even at over 30 watts.
Can I say again how much I love this tank??
Was thinking about new o rings but my istick is blue and it looks patriotic.


Sent By Owl

 

[vincom]

I didn't read all the replies.
I LOVe this tank. I'm using the RBA section and I'm having good results even with the prebuilt coil. I'm even using regular organic cotton and not the Japanese cotton.
I changed my tip to one that has a slightly larger hole than the stock tip and I'm not having issues with the tip hearing up, even at over 30 watts.
Can I say again how much I love this tank??
Was thinking about new o rings but my istick is blue and it looks patriotic.
Sent By Owl

welcome to the club, fyi ur going to need more ejuice

 

[vincom]

chainvaping and my short experience w/subtank mini rba's and rayon:

handling rayon - wash hands or use gloves as u might get off taste in the first few vapes.
small thin sharp scissors are helpful.
thick piece is better than thin, for approx, 2 to 3mm diameter coil i split off about 1/3rd of the rayon coil diameter.
gently roll the cut piece of rayon between hands to make it more uniform and to smooth out the frays.
when pulling through the coil i also turn the rayon as to screw it through the coil, once through unroll it as much as u can if need be.
i cut tails at same length as the weeping deck where the wick holes are, aka short tails.
soak rayon w/some juice and form it to the deck, make sure wick holes are clear..
install rest of chimney pieces and reassemble.
prime it w/some drags but w/out hitting firing button aka primer pulls. let it sit for a few minutes.
start out w/low power and gradually increase to desired power.
any off taste from contamination(hands) will slowly dissipate.

in short, thick wick w/short tails
i tried the bunny ear style(long tails) and i found it would start getting dry hits after 1/2 to a day of use.
short tail last about 2 days at about 50mls of sweet fruit juice, coils get gunked.

 

[jimbob200521]

I didn't read all the replies.
I LOVe this tank. I'm using the RBA section and I'm having good results even with the prebuilt coil. I'm even using regular organic cotton and not the Japanese cotton.
I changed my tip to one that has a slightly larger hole than the stock tip and I'm not having issues with the tip hearing up, even at over 30 watts.
Can I say again how much I love this tank??
Was thinking about new o rings but my istick is blue and it looks patriotic.


Sent By Owl

Get a set of white orings and switch just one out; red, white, and blue. Murica

 

[DavidAmonettNashville]

I tell you this, Watt for watt this thing destroys the Atlantis...I'm very pleased

 

[DP2Raja]

Same here with CC Rayon, bad taste. Some peeps can't taste it at all. CC Rayon does seem to wick a little faster than KGD in real life testing imo. Pretty happy with KGD myself. It's going to take a spectacular breakthrough in wicking medium to make me give up KGD; even then they may have to pry it from my cold dead hands.

@DP.....same here bro, noth'n but the fluffy stuff.

Just ordered a pack of Cotton Bacon...just have to see if it is any good. Kind of silly since I am super satisfied with my JC as is. But we search out every tiny advantage don't we??