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Flapstick

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Jan 12, 2015
110
101
Europa
I wouldn't trust anyone's little hands either, including Busardo's . :)

I hate to break this in the middle of a joke, but...

It turns out that my rba ribbon build came out just perfect - yes, PERFECT. Compared to the previous pic I posted it's minus one wrap (5 total) and rather under-wicked. But it vapes - wait for it - PERFECTLY!. No post-sizzle, no lag, no dry hit - and just 12.5 watts. 0.95 ohms final resistance value and I can even take lung inhales.

OMG! (and I'm an atheist!)

Ribbon Kanthal for the win!!! :)
 

Flapstick

Senior Member
Jan 12, 2015
110
101
Europa
I was going to fill up the tank and unscrewed the glass to a surprise. The glass didn't come off. The deck over the af ring unscrewed. Damnit. Now that i broke the glue that's holding it on, it happens often. At least i was able to get in there and clean it out really good.

How would one unscrew the unscrewable? There's no glue involved, it's all press-fitted. Are you sure you're vaping, as in not smoking anything? :)
 

IanDVaypes

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Nov 26, 2014
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How would one unscrew the unscrewable? There's no glue involved, it's all press-fitted. Are you sure you're vaping, as in not smoking anything? :)

I understand your disbelief. The part that exposes the airflow ring screwed off. While i cleaned it, i noticed glue peeling off. It's threaded and not press fit. I would take some pics but it's something i don't want to happen again.
 

Flapstick

Senior Member
Jan 12, 2015
110
101
Europa
I understand your disbelief. The part that exposes the airflow ring screwed off. While i cleaned it, i noticed glue peeling off. It's threaded and not press fit. I would take some pics but it's something i don't want to happen again.

I took mine apart since I got it. Not many screwy parts and definitely nothing glued.
What MAY look like glue in the area you've mentioned is actually residual liquid, Nothing more.
And yes, I feel you, I wouldn't want that section to come apart either. I've had it on both my Nautiluses.
Mind the spring and the tiny ball bearing :)
 

IanDVaypes

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I took apart the 25mm. The glue is a little to hard to be e liquid. Maybe a thread locker

x38zSaM.jpg
 

shreduhsoreus

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Jan 6, 2015
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sure looks like threads there on the base

Well that's a relief. I somehow managed to accidentally unscrew it earlier, so the airflow ring was way too high and I could see the tiny ball bearing that clicks into the notches in the airflow ring. I thought I broke it but I managed to screw it back into place. I actually came to this thread to ask if anybody knew if the base is 2 pieces that can be taken apart.

I wonder what all the gunk in Ian's picture could be.
 

vincom

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Jun 19, 2014
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i think the mini would do the same.........so we could unscrew it and remove the afc ring, i wonder how much if any extra airflow we could get if someone actually needed more

btw w/my new extended drip tip i cannot stop sucking, uh vaping, on my subtank mini rba.
just got some new pineapple to mix into my diy juice concoction going, yum yum.
i got two mini & istick30w going non stop.
maybe i shouldve bought the 50w.

w/the nautilus i might of gone through 10-12ml/day, but now im more like 20-30ml/day.
once the rba is wicked right i cant stop............ help!
 
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Uncletattoowhat

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Apr 21, 2014
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Poquoson, VA
I have been getting dry hits like crazy using the RBA section on this thing lately. The first day i went through 4 tanks in a few hours with no problems with my first twisted 26ga Nichrome80 5 wrap spaced 2.5mm. Since the next day though, it's a different story.

Using Cellucotton, I have tried every wicking method in this thread. I've tried looser wicking, tighter wicking, trimmed wick, full fluffy wick, away from the juice channels, on the juice channels, etc.

I rebuilt 3 different coils in it yesterday trying to figure out the problem. 24ga Nichrome80 5 wrap spaced 2.5mm, 24ga Kanthal 5 wrap spaced 2.5mm, twisted 26ga Kanthal 5 wrap spaced 2.5mm.

For juices I have tried each one of the builds above with my go to Max VG juice, a 60/40 and a 50/50. Airflow on one hole, two holes, wide open on each coil with each juice.

On my 110w box i can only go as low as 3.5v, but even that low on voltage the vape isn't warm enough but I'm still getting dry hits. I strongly prefer a warm dense vape and each of the coils I've built have been good for that in a dripper. I'm hoping that my limitation is my box minimum voltage. My istick50w should be here today and if it is i will likely build a single 26ga Kanthal spaced 2-2.5mm coil like the stock one was.

Anyone have any possible tips?
 

LooseWiring

Full Member
Nov 30, 2014
54
43
Bought the Subtank Mini this week and I have to say I am underwhelmed. I have two Atlanti' and I've never had the problems with those that I have with this tank.
Using the included .5 ohm I could not take more than 2 drags at 25W before I get a burnt hit.
I tried changing the head to use the prebuilt .5ohm RBA and it was even worse. And I made sure sure the wick was fully saturated and pushed it back from the channels.
Does this tank require pure VG in order for the juice to flow? Did I get a bum tank? Or is this thing just not on the same level as the Atlantis?
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
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May 14, 2014
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I have been getting dry hits like crazy using the RBA section on this thing lately. The first day i went through 4 tanks in a few hours with no problems with my first twisted 26ga Nichrome80 5 wrap spaced 2.5mm. Since the next day though, it's a different story.

Using Cellucotton, I have tried every wicking method in this thread. I've tried looser wicking, tighter wicking, trimmed wick, full fluffy wick, away from the juice channels, on the juice channels, etc.

I rebuilt 3 different coils in it yesterday trying to figure out the problem. 24ga Nichrome80 5 wrap spaced 2.5mm, 24ga Kanthal 5 wrap spaced 2.5mm, twisted 26ga Kanthal 5 wrap spaced 2.5mm.

For juices I have tried each one of the builds above with my go to Max VG juice, a 60/40 and a 50/50. Airflow on one hole, two holes, wide open on each coil with each juice.

On my 110w box i can only go as low as 3.5v, but even that low on voltage the vape isn't warm enough but I'm still getting dry hits. I strongly prefer a warm dense vape and each of the coils I've built have been good for that in a dripper. I'm hoping that my limitation is my box minimum voltage. My istick50w should be here today and if it is i will likely build a single 26ga Kanthal spaced 2-2.5mm coil like the stock one was.

Anyone have any possible tips?

Not enough wicking density. I know you said you tried more wick but maybe not enough? I have to slightly compress the wick by lightly rolling it between my fingers just to get it all through the coil. Not super tight in the coil but some resistance to pulling for sure. If it slides easily through the coil you're under wicked. I've got some pics somewhere I'll find and post here.



Edit, see post #749 for pics. I am able to vape 50/50 or 65/35 up to 25w with no dryhits wicked as shown in that post.
 
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Uncletattoowhat

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Apr 21, 2014
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Poquoson, VA
Not enough wicking density. I know you said you tried more wick but maybe not enough? I have to slightly compress the wick by lightly rolling it between my fingers just to get it all through the coil. Not super tight in the coil but some resistance to pulling for sure. If it slides easily through the coil you're under wicked. I've got some pics somewhere I'll find and post here.



Edit, see post #749 for pics. I am able to vape 50/50 or 65/35 up to 25w with no dryhits wicked as shown in that post.

I've been working with CelluCotton for close to 6 months now and haven't had a problem with density since learning it in the beginning. Is there a sweet spot for coil placement on these? I wick my Lemo just like that as well and never have problems. Tried to apply the logic to this tank and it wouldnt grasp it. I wonder if it's because I'm used to running larger diameter coils. I'm going to mess with it later today and see what I come up with. Maybe I'll try some of that Japanese Organic Cotton everyone keeps giving me and I throw in a baggie in my vape cabinet.
 
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