KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
- Thread starter Vap0rnomics
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Definitely some hardcore quality control issues going on at Kanger right now... Some have that gap, others don't. There are multiple insulator versions. There are multiple juice channel versions. I feel like we are paying to beta test a product. Its getting absurd. At least the OCC coils still work as advertised for everybody
JC, I don't know how long you've been vaping, but we've always been beta testing everything. Nature of the beast. This is a new and rapidly growing industry and the competition is fierce. As long as the company is responding and trying to correct their mistakes, it's all good, in my opinion. They are learning with us and from us--in response to our feedback. It's been like this from day one.
That said, I stopped buying the newest and the latest a long time ago, because I know that every new product will have problems and that those problems will, hopefully, be addressed in versions 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, after the first reviews and user complaints are in.
I own a ProVari V2.5, Sigelei Zmax V3, MVP V2, etc...
If those growing pains bother you, don't buy right away--wait for reviews and corrections. If you can't wait, just be aware that there will be problems and enjoy the ride!
I've been vaping for a while, and I've never encountered THIS much problem with any tank or RDA I've ever owned. I feel some companies are in a rush to outdo the competition and be the next biggest thing and don't take the time to thoroughly test what they are releasing. It doesn't help that the majority of youtube reviewers these days are just producing infomercials and make the products look awesome and dont discuss as many of the problems with them until much later.
And you know what, as long as we keep buying early revisions, they are going to continue these practices. As the old saying goes, you vote with your wallet
Im all for a company trying to correct their mistakes, but the consumers who bought the exact same model that is inferior should at least be upgraded by the company once the issues are sorted out. Especially if they arent advertising these revisions and are still selling it under the exact same name. Seems like a bait and switch. Just my humble opinion
And you know what, as long as we keep buying early revisions, they are going to continue these practices. As the old saying goes, you vote with your wallet
Im all for a company trying to correct their mistakes, but the consumers who bought the exact same model that is inferior should at least be upgraded by the company once the issues are sorted out. Especially if they arent advertising these revisions and are still selling it under the exact same name. Seems like a bait and switch. Just my humble opinion
Last edited:
I don't know how many people have experienced this issue, what I've found I can count on one hand.
Ive seen quite a few instances from browsing on here and reddit of insulator or juice deck issues. No problems whatsoever with the OCC coils though. Thats a plus at least. I bought the subtank mini for the RBA, which is why Im so disappointed (that and the non existent customer service I received from kanger about this).
In summary for anyone catching up: If you just want to use the OCC coils, the subtank mini (and nano) are excellent. If you want to use the RBA, be warned that you may encounter issues depending on which RBA deck and Insulator you have.
In summary for anyone catching up: If you just want to use the OCC coils, the subtank mini (and nano) are excellent. If you want to use the RBA, be warned that you may encounter issues depending on which RBA deck and Insulator you have.
I've been vaping for a while, and I've never encountered THIS much problem with any tank or RDA I've ever owned. I feel some companies are in a rush to outdo the competition and be the next biggest thing and don't take the time to thoroughly test what they are releasing. And you know what, as long as we keep buying early revisions, they are going to continue these practices. As the old saying goes, you vote with your wallet
Then you haven't been vaping long enough. Kayfun is on version 4 and people are still complaining--or switching to $35 Lemo.
Orchid is now what? Version 7? 8? Aspire is still selling coils filled with fiberglass even though they know that they should switch to a safer material. Eleaf iStick is on version 3 (50 W) since October 20014. I could go on and on.I'm sorry you're having problems, but many SubTank users are very happy with their performance. Kanger will take care of that insulator problem sooner or later. You already know what the problem is and how to fix it.
Take a vape and enjoy life!
Right on, I have tried to leave this thread alone because I've already made threads about these issues and they are being discussed there. Only popped back in because I was referenced and then others had questions. Dont want to derail or take away from the users who are lucky and arent having any problems, but there are issues out there and they are real (and potentially dangerous if you arent using a protected battery). Enjoy your subtanks if they are working
I'm taking a look at the picture of the guy's subtank mini that had the insulator that didn't fit right, and I figured out the problem..
It looks like he cross-threaded it. I just did the exact same thing on mine after my last rebuild and cleaning session.
Here's the picture with the areas that I'm looking at:
As you can see, his entire build deck is off by about a 1 degree angle from the point where his insulator should be sitting. It's not even pressed flat against the build deck. Compare that to the threads on the subtank mini, and he's off by 1 half-twist, which would be about the same degree.
Being as the unit is so small, that's probably what happened. Wouldn't take much to mar those threads.
It looks like he cross-threaded it. I just did the exact same thing on mine after my last rebuild and cleaning session.
Here's the picture with the areas that I'm looking at:
As you can see, his entire build deck is off by about a 1 degree angle from the point where his insulator should be sitting. It's not even pressed flat against the build deck. Compare that to the threads on the subtank mini, and he's off by 1 half-twist, which would be about the same degree.
Being as the unit is so small, that's probably what happened. Wouldn't take much to mar those threads.
Good observation Antiux! I wonder if others with the pictures of the offset insulators did the same thing and didnt realize it, or if some people are actually receiving theirs like that. I know I never adjusted my RBA, and used it how it came out of the box with the coil already installed. I did wick the coil but the cotton slid through easily and never changed the orientation of the coil, so I know thats not the only reason that is causing some insulators to fail, but I could definitely see the offset insulator being a point of failure due to user error if they were misaligned from reassembling the positive post.
[edit] I have posted your findings in the insulator thread so others who see it may benefit from your findings and avoid assembling their RBA post incorrectly. Good catch!
[edit] I have posted your findings in the insulator thread so others who see it may benefit from your findings and avoid assembling their RBA post incorrectly. Good catch!
Last edited:
Not putting words in your mouth. I repeated what you said before editing an hour later. Your posts are dishonest. Passing it off as a public service when what it really is about is you trying to get free gear to cover your own mistake.
many users = you alone. just you.
a 30$ iStick 30w is NOT the price of admission into the rba subohm club. it's junk at best. barely better than the 20w. you said yourself you drove it at 25-30w on an istick, changed the juice and it melted. guess what? that's on you. never even stop to consider that you messed something up when you opened it up or that your janky istick itself melted it when you fired it up wide open. seriously, read your own posts newbie. you hung yourself with your own posts and dare blame me?
Now can we get past this made up drama and back to facts and tech tips? This forum used to be fun to read. It's been nothing but negative since this non-issue noise started.
I am trying to help users who have legitimate issues and warn others who might benefit from it, while you are making personal attacks and are the one who has been consistently dishonest.
Also, I have been vaping for quite some time, I own many RDAs, a few RTAs and a few Tanks. I own more batteries than just an Istick30, I just prefer it for its compact size and sub ohm capability and have had 0 problems with it. Not a fan of carrying unprotected mech mods or big box mods around.
I have said it many times. What happened with my RBA was not due to user error. I am not trying to get free gear, I encountered a serious issue with the hardware I purchased and think the manufacturer should replace my RBA because it was permanently damaged from no fault of my own. And I am most certainly not the only one who has had issues. Look around on the forums and other forums, the information is out there and you are either ignoring that or are too lazy to check for yourself.
I am finished replying to your accusations and your insults. Please improve your attitude if you are going to continue to participate in this discussion. This is not an elitist 'club' of any kind, we are all here to enjoy the benefits of vaping and quitting cigarettes.
[edit] Back to discussing the Subtank Mini, please! Direct any future insulator questions to the thread dedicated to it so we can have a good time here
Last edited:
This used to be a nice place... now it's hijacked by drama...now where is that "unsubscribe" button...
When you're dealing with kit that's this small, any sort of minor mistake could cause major issues. Welcome to the world of electronics(tm).
Now let's go back to talking about how awesome the flavor is off these damn things.
I got myself a pyrex drip tip for my nano, and it's comfortably vaping at 24w without burning my lips. As for my mini, I rebuilt it in temperature control mode for my dna40, and the vape experience is completely cool, without the heating issues. I'm running at 22W with a temperature control setting of 450 degrees on the juice I'm currently using (Ghost Nectar Strawberry Wasteland, 50/50, Tastes like strawberry shortcake).
Do you have a photo of your new drip tip?
That was my one complaint about my mini.... the drip tip got very hot!
I used the mini for the first time tonight ... still haven't used it enough to come to any final conclusions.
Mine did come with "brown" insulators. That being said, I do have a bunch of replacements that I ordered from Kanger for large/25mm Subtanks. The insulators I received were supposed to be in two sizes; one for the mini, one for the original/big boy. I have confirmed that one of them does fit perfectly fine in the big/original tank, but I'm really not sure how the insulator that is supposedly meant for the mini would fit in the mini. It looks nothing like the current insulator in the mini and doesn't come close to fitting. Odd.
Insulator issues aside, the airflow is fantastic in this little guy, but I'm not all that impressed with the flavor as of yet. So far the Lemos and it's bigger brother has it beat there. It's wicking very well, and with a .20ohm Ni200 coil with temperature control set at 410F, it's not hitting temperature protection until I bump it up over 25 watts. However, flavor between 15 and 25 just isn't that great for me so far, compared to my Lemos or the big subtank. I may experiment with some different builds to see if I can get some better flavor. Currently using KGD cotton, trimmed well/resting on the deck / not covering the juice channels. 8 evenly spaced wraps off left-hand-thread M4 machine screw tension wrapped with an inner diameter of around 3.2mm. The vape seems to be warm, thick, and muted for some reason.
I also had some connection issues; the pin in the base wasn't making connection with the RBA bottom. I fixed this by removing the pin, re-adjusting the insulator all the way up the shaft so it was snug against the flat end/connector, and re-inserting. Seems to be OK now/making a consistent connection.
Anyway, initial impressions are "JUST OK" ... but I reserve my final judgements until I can play with the build a little more.
Mine did come with "brown" insulators. That being said, I do have a bunch of replacements that I ordered from Kanger for large/25mm Subtanks. The insulators I received were supposed to be in two sizes; one for the mini, one for the original/big boy. I have confirmed that one of them does fit perfectly fine in the big/original tank, but I'm really not sure how the insulator that is supposedly meant for the mini would fit in the mini. It looks nothing like the current insulator in the mini and doesn't come close to fitting. Odd.
Insulator issues aside, the airflow is fantastic in this little guy, but I'm not all that impressed with the flavor as of yet. So far the Lemos and it's bigger brother has it beat there. It's wicking very well, and with a .20ohm Ni200 coil with temperature control set at 410F, it's not hitting temperature protection until I bump it up over 25 watts. However, flavor between 15 and 25 just isn't that great for me so far, compared to my Lemos or the big subtank. I may experiment with some different builds to see if I can get some better flavor. Currently using KGD cotton, trimmed well/resting on the deck / not covering the juice channels. 8 evenly spaced wraps off left-hand-thread M4 machine screw tension wrapped with an inner diameter of around 3.2mm. The vape seems to be warm, thick, and muted for some reason.
I also had some connection issues; the pin in the base wasn't making connection with the RBA bottom. I fixed this by removing the pin, re-adjusting the insulator all the way up the shaft so it was snug against the flat end/connector, and re-inserting. Seems to be OK now/making a consistent connection.
Anyway, initial impressions are "JUST OK" ... but I reserve my final judgements until I can play with the build a little more.
I bought the replacement insulators also. The description did state comes in 2 sizes (and that's all the description said) and I took that to mean for the large Subtank and the mini. Like you I found the one I thought was for the mini is not for the mini. I can only guess that since the mini RBA section is preferred by most because of the increased airflow that they are going to release a new RBA section for the larger tank and the second insulator will be for that since it has a much larger diameter air flow hole. I don't know this for a fact and have no inside knowledge, but it does say both insulators are for the Subtank, so just guessing. The bad thing is that there seems to be no replacement available on their site for the mini so I can replace my damaged insulator. I have emailed to try to determine if one is available to purchase and to get some clarification on what the second insulator is for, but have received no reply from Kangertechus in several days. I'm sure eventually they will have them available and I will get them when they put them up on the site, but for now I'll just have to live with the prebuilt coils I guess.
This isn't the worst thing that could happen since the prebuilt coils still provides a very good vape experience, but it's a bit disappointing has Kanger released a really good tank and is having these kinds of problems and very little information/parts available for people that bought the tanks. Not a big deal since it isn't the first time I've been a bit disappointed in a new tank, but it's kind of sad for Kanger to be getting bad press when they were so close to a really successful tank launch.
T
I don't think the little gap between the top of the insulator tab and the pos block slot would effect anything. As long as the vertical surfaces line up the pos block will remain aligned.
Cross threading as mentioned earlier could cause a poor continuity over heating issue if not kept tightened up. Cross threaded screws usually won't stay tight especially when exposed to thermal cycling. Any loose connection can cause overheating especially when running high current builds. I'll make sure I check mine after each cleaning cycle. Thanks for that.
I also have read that the brown peek insulators available on kanger's site don't fit the mini. When they announce one that does fit I'll order it but I doubt I'll have any trouble with the one I have.
There is a little gap. Things are tight though. Next time I rewick I'll take a better pic.
I don't think the little gap between the top of the insulator tab and the pos block slot would effect anything. As long as the vertical surfaces line up the pos block will remain aligned.
Cross threading as mentioned earlier could cause a poor continuity over heating issue if not kept tightened up. Cross threaded screws usually won't stay tight especially when exposed to thermal cycling. Any loose connection can cause overheating especially when running high current builds. I'll make sure I check mine after each cleaning cycle. Thanks for that.
I also have read that the brown peek insulators available on kanger's site don't fit the mini. When they announce one that does fit I'll order it but I doubt I'll have any trouble with the one I have.
Last edited:
Nowhere on the Kanger website page for those insulators does it say "for the Mini". They do not have a Mini replacement available there. It says "(Upgraded material, two sizes)" These are for the Subtank Original only.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked