See here we go with variances... I wick mine Extremely chunky...Lots of wick through the coil and tight.. When I wicked thinner I got dry hits. I know it theoretically should choke the wick but on my RBA this is the system that works. Go figure
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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See here we go with variances... I wick mine Extremely chunky...Lots of wick through the coil and tight.. When I wicked thinner I got dry hits. I know it theoretically should choke the wick but on my RBA this is the system that works. Go figure
I don't have a new Kayfun, but I wouldn't expect much difference. If you look at the chamber sizes they're not dissimilar, so there wouldn't be a whole lot of difference - at least that's what I'd think?
I bought the subtank simply over the Kayfun simply for ease of use and less fiddly bits!
I bought the subtank simply over the Kayfun simply for ease of use and less fiddly bits!
See here we go with variances... I wick mine Extremely chunky...Lots of wick through the coil and tight.. When I wicked thinner I got dry hits. I know it theoretically should choke the wick but on my RBA this is the system that works. Go figure
Interesting! But doesn't it kill your coil when you take the wick out? I should probably explain my idea of thick wick - I always put mine in fairly tight. Just not so tight that the coil is deformed when I take it out!
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So thats probably why my both Kayfun V4 tobeco clone and my Subtank mini performs almost identical .. I mean they are similiar in terms of flavour and vapour. I thought the Subtank mini should be better and thats why I thought my build on the Subtank mini sucks because both seems equal at the flavour and vapour ... any other opinions that I should get any significant difference between both or its all normal and they are somewhat equal ?
Thanks again!
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I think you're right. Kanger's improved tremendously since I quit 18 months ago. But those deviations are there. I've measured four different wire spec's for example in the various supplies of OCC. By design? But I haven't run across any fitment issues. Insulation, o-rings and grommets have all held up. But since there are so many outright new vapers trying these very popular tanks we need to consider that as well. How capable are they to have the fundamentals like draw technique, for one, in place to aptly judge.
From what I'm seeing this has been one of the most impressive new product intro's I've seen since I started vaping for a clearo. All the more reason I'm inclined to agree with you actually and emphasize keeping an eye out for QC problems.
Good luck.
It may depend on wick prep? A rolled wick expands. A fluffed wick collapses...It may also be that each of these rba sections are slightly different and require experimentation. I just feel bad for those who haven't been able to get their rba sections functioning correctly. They could have bought the nano and saved a few bucks...
I use just enough KGD ... cotton so that the wick slides back and forth in the coil without bunching up. then I trim so that the wet wick just falls to the rba floor and brushes it like a broom. I also use a toothpick to move the "wick broom" back a few mm's from the juice channels.
Here:
In the above shot I have trimmed the left side and not the right. By trimming at the angle, I prevent the wick from bunching up when it is touching the rba floor. Also notice that the wick has no poofy shoulders where it exits the coil.
Not the greatest pics, but in this you can see that the wet wick flows from post to post and you can see the juice holes when looking straight down.
Darryl, no offense bro but this is underwicked, especially for a spaced coil, and even more so for a twisted. You should have to roll the wick down between your fingers and have to pull it from both ends to get it through the coil as Mac and I have suggested. You should see shoulders of bulging wick at the end turns of the coil and should not be able to slide the wick back and forth without risk of ruining the coil. All other aspects of your description are spot on.
Just stepped outside and chained the crap out of it at 38w with 50/50. No dry hits but I think I'm gonna puke....lol..........(not really laughing).
Wicking as heavy as Mac and I have described does take some breakin time.....starting at higher wattage to clear flooding from new wicking and tank filling....but once it breaks in....watch out!
Try it.....wick is cheap, right?
Guys, I'm a new subtank user. I used sigelei mini 30w + subtank mini, using 0.5 occ. And my friend using rdna40 + subtank (the bigger one), using 0.5 occ. Both fire on 25 watts, and at the same volt. Now the questions :
- why the Rdna tastes so much better on the flavor than my sigelei? Is it because the devices or the subtank? Even if I run my sigelei on 30w and higher volt, I still can't match up with rdna flavor.
- and if the devices do make a difference, how can I perform my subtank to that level? Maybe using a lover ohms? Cos my sigelei can take it to maybe 3 ohms.
Because personally I don't want to replace my sigelei, I'm in love with the design and else. Rdna is okay, but it's way over my budget. So is there any way for my subtank to perform better?
- why the Rdna tastes so much better on the flavor than my sigelei? Is it because the devices or the subtank? Even if I run my sigelei on 30w and higher volt, I still can't match up with rdna flavor.
- and if the devices do make a difference, how can I perform my subtank to that level? Maybe using a lover ohms? Cos my sigelei can take it to maybe 3 ohms.
Because personally I don't want to replace my sigelei, I'm in love with the design and else. Rdna is okay, but it's way over my budget. So is there any way for my subtank to perform better?
It wasn't supposed to be a spaced coil... looks good till you get that cotton in there.
Wow! Really? I thought that tight so that you see shoulders was a clear path to dry hits? I've had zero issues using a wick like this for about a week. Now this was a pic of a KGD wick with both skins removed, really not seeing a difference now that I am only peeling one off as Mac suggested.
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Try his tank on your mod... Any difference?
Now try your tank on his mod... Any difference?
The perceived difference is probably due to his DNA 40 having more overhead (wattage wise that is).
Yeah, your pics pretty much illustrate my earlier attempts at wicking heavier after getting my STm. Each time I wicked heavier it got better. That's why I kept increasing my estimated max wattage for the device. I put a .... load of kgd in it this morning, just about ruined my coil by not pulling hard enough from both ends of the wick during positioning and have landed on a new plateau..... 35w max for 4-5sec chain vaping my twisted 32ga. Probably would be more like 30w if I had a single strand contact coil in it.
The flavor just gets better and better as I increase the wicking density...after break in.
Nope I haven't, I don't think that's the issue. Cos I rebuild myself and still can't outperform his occ. I think it's the rdna have the overhead wattage. But if that the case, is there any chance to perform better on my subtank? I mean what build I can do for my rba or else?
So more cotton in the wick means bette flavour .. by more cotton I mean not really a lot but just enough to stay tightly ?
So thats probably why my both Kayfun V4 tobeco clone and my Subtank mini performs almost identical .. I mean they are similiar in terms of flavour and vapour. I thought the Subtank mini should be better and thats why I thought my build on the Subtank mini sucks because both seems equal at the flavour and vapour ... any other opinions that I should get any significant difference between both or its all normal and they are somewhat equal ?
Thanks again!
Agree with cig on both counts of spaced and twisted. You mentioned roughly 3x wind diameter. I'm close to 4x wind Ø with at least 3/8" strip of KGD. If not that much comes off with the one side of backing I have to pay close attention to stretching the fabric adequately to avoid snag. That's tight. Much tighter than I ever thought I'd need. But at these performance ranges KGD can take it and not just be a soppin' mess. Even better at higher power. But I start having some reservations above 30W on drippers because it can dry out so fast. With tanks far less of a concern.
The more efficient the contact surface, the more productive the flow potential must be. That means both compression and density. If that's rayon in particular, it needs to be quite tight. Otherwise you're not going to see the vapor density the wind's capable of.
As to the backing. I look at it as a regulator. I'm going to be using double backed in larger winds. But the backing material is particularly linear and dense. If you want to optimize flow use both. But the looser amorphous fibers have more volume carrying capacity (not that much fiber volume). Fine tune with that inner fiber volume and density.
But more happens to be more in this case; that is, more vapor density. Don't worry about it necessarily reducing overall vapor volume. Quick fat warm volume is excellent! Diffuse it with airflow. Don't confuse that with lack of production. It's the opposite.
Good luck.
What resistance are you running that coil at?
I can chain vape with 4-5 second pulls using my wick too. I did put more wick in yesterday than shown in the images. I only had one dry hit and that was user error on my thinly done wick.
Agree with cig on both counts of spaced and twisted. You mentioned roughly 3x wind diameter. I'm close to 4x wind Ø with at least 3/8" strip of KGD. If not that much comes off with the one side of backing I have to pay close attention to stretching the fabric adequately to avoid snag. That's tight. Much tighter than I ever thought I'd need. But at these performance ranges KGD can take it and not just be a soppin' mess. Even better at higher power. But I start having some reservations above 30W on drippers because it can dry out so fast. With tanks far less of a concern.
The more efficient the contact surface, the more productive the flow potential must be. That means both compression and density. If that's rayon in particular, it needs to be quite tight. Otherwise you're not going to see the vapor density the wind's capable of.
As to the backing. I look at it as a regulator. I'm going to be using double backed in larger winds. But the backing material is particularly linear and dense. If you want to optimize flow use both. But the looser amorphous fibers have more volume carrying capacity (not that much fiber volume). Fine tune with that inner fiber volume and density.
But more happens to be more in this case; that is, more vapor density. Don't worry about it necessarily reducing overall vapor volume. Quick fat warm volume is excellent! Diffuse it with airflow. Don't confuse that with lack of production. It's the opposite.
Good luck.
I used a 2.5mm mandrel, 2.5mm = 1/8" (approx)
so my 3x was 3/8" approx. Arent you also using a 2.5mm mandrel?
I will experiment with a lil more KGD on the next wick. Not having any issues right now and getting great dense vapor!
So please let me know. I've got better flavour and vapour (or identical) from the Kayfun V4 tobeco clone compared to the Subtank Mini. Is that normal ? I mean I thought Subtank mini should be significantly better but I can't see that. Is it because of my build on the Subtank Mini or it's normal that both are identical or sometimes Kayfun V4 even better .. is that normal and its not because my build sucks on the Mini ..?
My current build is 32 twisted, 5 spaced wraps on 6-32 screw, 2.75mm ID, .9 ohm, wicked with a de-skinned 9.5-10mm wide strip of kgd.....chunky for sure.
Click to enlarge image
I need to know from the owners of both the subtank mini and nano, what's keeping the RBA section of the STmini from fitting into the STnano?
Did anyone try it?
Did anyone try it?
If you use imgur to first upload your pictures then link to them we would see them better!
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