Mine too. But only because it was cracked to begin with.My secret method involved a hammer. Your way is probably better.
Mine too. But only because it was cracked to begin with.My secret method involved a hammer. Your way is probably better.
Yes, there is a secret.
I've had trouble with the connection between the rba and the base but never figured out why. Overtight/undertight/bad oring???
I have had my subtank hand me the no atomizer crap occasionally. What I think the problem is that the positive pin gets pushed too far up and doesn't make contact. I remove the RBA, then push the pin down some from the inside, out if you want too then you can separate the insulator from the pin and clean but I then put the RBA back into place with the pin pushed down then push the pin up till it contacts the RBA. Just begin to make it a habit to push the positive pin down a bit every time you remove the RBA from the base and seat the RBA first then seat the positive pin especially if its on a mod that will push up on the pin and turtle into the subtank base's 510 connection.
This pin issue is prolly one of the must frustrating and overlooked causes of a defective or lackluster vape on ST's. Just like flawed post connect's in general.
Many are right away to blame the RBA on not making contact. Once you've done it you'll see how easily that pin slides if there is juice present in the base thats why I remove the pin and insulator and give it a clean then qtip and isoprop the opening where the insulator sits. It doesn't matter how you do it as long as you put the RBA into the base first then push the pin up after, the result is the same.
Taking the RBA apart also to remove the juice that gets under the delrin insulator, inside the screw holes and cooties inside the airflow shaft. Wick breakin taste is also blamed for funky old juice thats beginning to turn cause of the heating. It gets pretty hot inside the RBA cooking a .5ohm coil for several good chain vapes. Another reason why I remove the coil build then clean the RBA and replace with the same build so funky chard scraping don't taste in the fresh wicking. Just tossing the RBA or any atty into hot water doesn't clean nothing, it needs to be brush cleaned(even a toothbrush) with a bit of soap to remove the film and scum.
Once you have your build on the RBA after you've fired it, wicked it and juiced it remember to give the screws a quick test torque to be sure they haven't loosened some and also once in a while after you've vaped a few tanks, check again. The heating and cooling of the RBA can cause the screws to back off especially if your RBA been rebuilt oodles of times and in some cases I can get a ioda of a extra turn from the screws.
Hey MacTechVpr , i checked all your blogs, (superb by the way) looking for a tutorial on Sub Tank head rebuilding and didn't see anything but i have come across you talking about it in detail in the past .
I will just do a search , didn't even think of it , (punching self in head while calling self an idiot) never mind.
Herb you won't regret it. I work real world with low-power to comp level vapers. Strain's in everything and every bit as powerful a tool as I describe. Try the terms tensioned, sticky, pin vise and oxidation for an overview. Hit me if you get hung up. Glad to help all who come here. I only ask those who succeed to pass on the joy.
Good luck.
p.s. A good general round up here…KangerTech SUBTANK Mini | Post#3321 | E-Cigarette Forum…or also search for descriptions of my recommended reference center point for Kanthal on the KST using my handle and the term 25/7 (25 being the gauge).
The Subtank RBA's can be tricky with the leakage and it will happen if the juice has a good percentage of PG in it and you don't wick the RBA correctly.
The Subtank RBA's can be tricky with the leakage and it will happen if the juice has a good percentage of PG in it and you don't wick the RBA correctly.
Too much wicking and you will develop dry hits and too little and you get leaks lol.
I leave the tanks on their side a lot and test leakage that way since i have a tendency to leave them on their side at times.
Now that's great to hear!!!Only tank I ever had that didn't leak from heat or altitude changes.
Guess I done sumthin right. The STM has earned spot in my rotation. Stood up all night half full of 65V/35P without losing a single drop.
This is me. I treasure the fact that I can toss my current go to tank anywhere I want in any position and not worry about it. At least not unless ambient temps (hot truck/car) or altitude changes (I'm a traveler) come into play, of course.
The STM has some purty big shoes to fill if it's gonna earn spot along side my eGo ONE Mega V1 tanks. It has cleared 3 hurdles, I really like the look (thats huge! Cuz I don't like much of the same old same old that I see others using), it apparently doesn't piddle so far and availability is much better than the other one. I'll see how it goes fer a few week and prolly start stockpiling a few (dozen?).
No need to convince me of your expertise , you have always been "the man" when it comes to those topics since my first post on ECF .
Thanks for all you do my friend.
Guess I done sumthin right. The STM has earned spot in my rotation. Stood up all night half full of 65V/35P without losing a single drop.
This is me. I treasure the fact that I can toss my current go to tank anywhere I want in any position and not worry about it. At least not unless ambient temps (hot truck/car) or altitude changes (I'm a traveler) come into play, of course.
The STM has some purty big shoes to fill if it's gonna earn spot along side my eGo ONE Mega V1 tanks. It has cleared 3 hurdles, I really like the look (thats huge! Cuz I don't like much of the same old same old that I see others using), it apparently doesn't piddle so far and availability is much better than the other one. I'll see how it goes fer a few week and prolly start stockpiling a few (dozen?).
I know, the STM and ego one tanks are hard to beat. They're my favorites. I have 4 and want at least 6 more
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk