Kato Mod Clone, advice needed.

[Visivicous]

I'm looking at getting one of the Kato styled mods for sale at fasttech, either the 18500 or the 18650 (leaning toward the 18500). I had a couple of questions I was hoping that an owner of this mod could answer.

1. How would a kick v2 be inserted into the mod? At the positive, negative, or what? I've never used a kick.

2. What bottom coil tanks/clearomizers fit well inside the ring on the Kato? I was considering one of the Aero tanks from Kanger. How far do the tanks stick out of the top?

3. Using the kick, what type of battery should I get? I know that for the 18650 mod+kick I would use a 18500 battery, and for the 18500 mod I would use a 18350 battery. But should it be flat top, or button top?

4. Any advice on a similar, competing mod, would be appreciated. I own a Joytech eGrip (battery cannot be replaced), and I have looked at the Billet Box (too much hassle on the go), and the Innokin VTR (too bulky/heavy). I'm really just looking for something easily pocketable, with replaceable batteries, and some form of protection for the clearomizer (so, either built in like the eGrip or Billet box, or with a protecting ring like the VTR or Kato).

 

[Visivicous]

If nobody who owns this mod can help, then does anyone else have some advice?

 

[anderitos135]

I looked at a real serial-numbered one next to a fasttech (through focalecigs) clone at a local vape shop near Boston where I am, since I had an interest as well, and honestly you could probably get the real thing for less than $200 from a local shop or online since according to the guys at the shop no one is buying them.

They look really cool with the smallest battery, but as soon as you put any extenders on it it just looks ridiculous, like an inhaler or something. According to some reviews I looked at, including one from vapecore.com, with the smallest battery the performance is extremely underwhelming, and with an 18650 it still underperformed compared to other mechmods.

As far as what tanks will fit I have no clue, but honestly if you want something to take on the go I doubt this is the one you're looking for. Try a smaller boxmod, that way with the chip you'll get more consistent performance through the end of the charge as compared to a mech mod. The "head" of the hammer is wider than the connection, so I doubt this would travel in a pocket well.

I don't own one of these things so that's all I can really say, but I also totally wanted one until I looked into it and was disappointed by what I found.

Hope this helps!

 

[roxynoodle]

It fits tanks up to 23mm, so most tanks.

Use flat top batteries and the kick goes on the positive end.

 

[duc916]

I don't know anything about kicks, but I had massive voltage drop (about 1v) after only a week's use in a $40 clone, and that was despite the precautionary cleaning and coating with Ox-Gard I take with all mech-mods. The lower conductor rail and bushing are all press-fit very tight, and I haven't popped it out of there yet to really look at it. I kinda knew it was doomed to happen with that wimpy spring it has, so I've mostly written it off as a bad buy.

The other problem I have with it is how heavy it is. Nice form factor, but all that steel sandwiching the mod sort of ruins it. Needs to be aluminum to be pocket-worthy.

 

[Visivicous]

What about the Gizmo over at NatureVape? The description says that it is made of aluminum, so it should be lightweight, and the 510 connector is recessed so a tank would be protected. They even have different models to suit different diameter tanks/clearomizers. But they only make a 18500 version, no 18650's. That means that I would have to use a 18350, so I would be limited to around 800mah. I rarely go higher than 10 watts, and usually prefer to stick around 8-9 watts on a Kanger tank.

Any thoughts on whether or not the Gizmo with an 18350 + kick and an Aero tank would fit my habits?

 

[duc916]

I just looked at the Gizmo. Nice looking piece. All aluminum and 18500 would by my estimate, probably be half the weight of a Kato, and it has another advantage over the Kato by not having a wimpy spring at either battery terminal. The spring loaded 510 pin could be problematic down the road, depending on how much heat it's exposed to, as springs tend to lose tension under a lot of heat, which probably is what's killing my Kato. I say go for it.... $135 USD is kinda pricey though.

 

[duc916]

Your thread inspired me to fix my Kato (and I was near Dale Hardware ). Replacing that ridiculous spring with a flathead screw (trimmed really short to about 3-4 mm) gave me back about 0.4 V that I'd lost with the spring, almost back to a respectable level. I might even use it again. Imagine... the authentic has a spring that looks no different, and it sells for $240.

 

[gph61]

I use the 18650 and 18500 regularly. Yes they are overly heavy but I put up with it for the form factor.

Both of the clone versions take a kick under the 510.

The only tank I've found that fits the 18500 clone version nicely is the mini Erl.

 

[juicynoos]

I have the 18650 authentic Kato and, honestly, rarely use it for all the reasons mentioned above. It just decorates a shelf in my office now but I love the look of it, performance and weight are the main issues. A far as tanks/clearo's, any 22mm (or smaller) device fits but not 23mm like the Taifun GT or subtanks like Atlantis in which case you would be required to remove the top part to be able to insert the atty's and then replace on top. I mostly used it with Kayfun's which all fit, incld K4 and work fine..definitely not recommended for sub-ohm but does work!!!