Kato Square Mod clone with Kick and Nautilus tank
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Has anyone bought Kato clone from gearbest? I bought other stuff from gearbest before so I'm more interested in the build quality. They're not saying who made the clone.
Hey guys, is the 18500 version kickable? Any considerations using a kick in this mod?
Is this thread alive? Is the Kato box kickable? Should one remove the bottom spring or just drop the kick inside the tube?
Hey @glyceral,
I was just using the Kato box clone (Limwell based on the curved edges on the fire button detail pointed out by Nicole Lea in her review here KATO Square Box Clone Review | Vaping Cheap) with 18650 flattop since I got it a few days ago. Love the formfactor, tough little thing like the VTR but smaller/lighter of course.
Dropped my kick into it down the battery tube onto the spring, and an 18500 (flattop) on top and it works just fine.
Of course to get it back out you need to take off the bottom allen screw secured piece (don't loose the white non-conductive spacer on the bottom!)
((or a long needle nose pliers, which worked fine to draw it back up the tube)
Remember everything's upside down, so positive side of the kick (I'm using a smoktech) goes down on the spring, positive battery terminal goes down after that so the negative end of the battery is being touched by the contact when pressed.
It's basically a folded tube mod, right?
I was just using the Kato box clone (Limwell based on the curved edges on the fire button detail pointed out by Nicole Lea in her review here KATO Square Box Clone Review | Vaping Cheap) with 18650 flattop since I got it a few days ago. Love the formfactor, tough little thing like the VTR but smaller/lighter of course.
Dropped my kick into it down the battery tube onto the spring, and an 18500 (flattop) on top and it works just fine.
Of course to get it back out you need to take off the bottom allen screw secured piece (don't loose the white non-conductive spacer on the bottom!)
((or a long needle nose pliers, which worked fine to draw it back up the tube)
Remember everything's upside down, so positive side of the kick (I'm using a smoktech) goes down on the spring, positive battery terminal goes down after that so the negative end of the battery is being touched by the contact when pressed.
It's basically a folded tube mod, right?
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Dont know if I missed these somewhere in the thread, or elsewhere in the forum, but I have a couple questions for Kato owners (mostly clones).
1) How do you hold it, and do you find it comfortable? Most box mods have the fire buttons on the sides, and I'm a little curious how comfortable it is to use the top button on the Kato. Pics of how you hold it appreciated.
2) What is the distance between the deck with the 510 connection, and the top of the trim ring/mod? For figuring out atty fitment. Any pics of one with a Kanger Mega Aerotank, Vulcan RDA, or Big Dripper RDA appreciated.
3) Back to the firing button, it's my understanding the mod uses common 1.0x20 threads, has anyone swapped out firing buttons?
4) For anyone who owns both a Kato and Innokin VTR, how would you compare them as all day vapes? Im debating between the two of them, and coming to a stalemate with just their specs on paper. I like the VTR's quick change battery door, variable wattage, and button placement (I think). I like the Kato's water survivability, 22mm atty options, and ability to sub-ohm.
Can ya help a brotha out?
1) How do you hold it, and do you find it comfortable? Most box mods have the fire buttons on the sides, and I'm a little curious how comfortable it is to use the top button on the Kato. Pics of how you hold it appreciated.
2) What is the distance between the deck with the 510 connection, and the top of the trim ring/mod? For figuring out atty fitment. Any pics of one with a Kanger Mega Aerotank, Vulcan RDA, or Big Dripper RDA appreciated.
3) Back to the firing button, it's my understanding the mod uses common 1.0x20 threads, has anyone swapped out firing buttons?
4) For anyone who owns both a Kato and Innokin VTR, how would you compare them as all day vapes? Im debating between the two of them, and coming to a stalemate with just their specs on paper. I like the VTR's quick change battery door, variable wattage, and button placement (I think). I like the Kato's water survivability, 22mm atty options, and ability to sub-ohm.
Can ya help a brotha out?
Hey Signmaker,
Here's what I get...
Deck (510) to top of ring: 41.4mm (1.63")
I hold it in my hand, with my trigger finger on the button (so if you pointed the atty driptip like the barrel of a nerf gun you're pulling the trigger to "fire")
I hold the VTR with my thumb on the button, same position of the hand.
I haven't swapped out the firing button, because I like the knurled locking ring on the one it ships with.
The battery placement is just as quick as with the VTR, if you unscrew the button (which is easy) and drop the battery in that way, the VTR bottom hinged/spring loaded door can be finicky a times to snap shut.
Of course you need to grind off the ring on the VTR after taking it apart to get things like the kayfun size tanks on it, major hassle, but worth it.
I like the VTR as my all day out and about pocketable mod. But honestly, the Square box (clone I have) is lighter, less of a fingerprint magnet on the sides (I have the silver VTR), and fits in the hand a little better. I'm using it now as my pocket vape.
I've been running just 18650 in it for full mech unregulated mode, and using a kick dropped in with an 18500 for regulated.
What's this about water survivability? You mean nothing shorts out or fries (electronics wise) when it gets dunked? I guess that's true of any full mech mod.
I've dropped a dripper on it, but without a long drip-tip to clear the ring, it's a bit unusable. Whereas the VTR with ring ground off is just funny looking with a small dripper on it.
Here's a shot of both side by side with a Kayfun tank in each.
Here's what I get...
Deck (510) to top of ring: 41.4mm (1.63")
I hold it in my hand, with my trigger finger on the button (so if you pointed the atty driptip like the barrel of a nerf gun you're pulling the trigger to "fire")
I hold the VTR with my thumb on the button, same position of the hand.
I haven't swapped out the firing button, because I like the knurled locking ring on the one it ships with.
The battery placement is just as quick as with the VTR, if you unscrew the button (which is easy) and drop the battery in that way, the VTR bottom hinged/spring loaded door can be finicky a times to snap shut.
Of course you need to grind off the ring on the VTR after taking it apart to get things like the kayfun size tanks on it, major hassle, but worth it.
I like the VTR as my all day out and about pocketable mod. But honestly, the Square box (clone I have) is lighter, less of a fingerprint magnet on the sides (I have the silver VTR), and fits in the hand a little better. I'm using it now as my pocket vape.
I've been running just 18650 in it for full mech unregulated mode, and using a kick dropped in with an 18500 for regulated.
What's this about water survivability? You mean nothing shorts out or fries (electronics wise) when it gets dunked? I guess that's true of any full mech mod.
I've dropped a dripper on it, but without a long drip-tip to clear the ring, it's a bit unusable. Whereas the VTR with ring ground off is just funny looking with a small dripper on it.
Here's a shot of both side by side with a Kayfun tank in each.
You're my hero, thanks for the data. That ring height means it'll sit right at the bevel on the top of my big dripper RDA, and might be just flush with a Vulcan. Either way, should make a clean looking rig.
Yes, the water survivability was in regards to it being mech. I've attempted to send my PVs to Davy Jones on more than one occasion. I'd rather do a detail clean with alcohol and run some fresh wicks than go home with a $90 paper weight.
Yes, the water survivability was in regards to it being mech. I've attempted to send my PVs to Davy Jones on more than one occasion. I'd rather do a detail clean with alcohol and run some fresh wicks than go home with a $90 paper weight.
I've been using the fasttech logoless 18650 version for a couple weeks. I put a kick under the 510 as per these instructions. It's easy to do:
Kato 18650 Kick - Imgur
Here's the Chi You top cap:
$3.47 Stainless Steel Flat Top Cap for Chi You / King Mod - silver-plated brass contacts at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I'm really liking this setup. Regulated 18650 and a 22mm tank that fits in a shirt pocket? This is compact vaping gear.
The 18500 version appears to have been cloned wrong. It looks like they removed the top of an 18650 version rather than the bottom as is the case with the original. It means the available tank space is shorter on the clone but, because of that, it looks like it'll accept a kick in the same way as the 18650. I ordered an 18500 version to test that out.
Kato 18650 Kick - Imgur
Here's the Chi You top cap:
$3.47 Stainless Steel Flat Top Cap for Chi You / King Mod - silver-plated brass contacts at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I'm really liking this setup. Regulated 18650 and a 22mm tank that fits in a shirt pocket? This is compact vaping gear.
The 18500 version appears to have been cloned wrong. It looks like they removed the top of an 18650 version rather than the bottom as is the case with the original. It means the available tank space is shorter on the clone but, because of that, it looks like it'll accept a kick in the same way as the 18650. I ordered an 18500 version to test that out.
For the sub-ohmers wondering about voltage drop, with a 0.3 ohm build, mine adds an additional 0.18v to my gold standard SMPL, which is not too shabby. More important for me is that my Kato's voltage is repeatable within 10mV of every throw, so the switch performs as well as the SMPL's.
My only tiny issue is that it's a bit heavy with all that steel on top and bottom. Someone should fabricate aluminum replacement parts, but with a helicoil for the switch threads for durability.
My only tiny issue is that it's a bit heavy with all that steel on top and bottom. Someone should fabricate aluminum replacement parts, but with a helicoil for the switch threads for durability.
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