Kayfun and nicotine levels - 1.aksh

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Two_Bears

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I did that at first, but I later found it wasn't really necessary -- maybe just because I got better at the initial wrap being more uniform; at first I was afraid I would overlap the wraps, so I tended to wrap them too far apart. I've found that doing the same procedure as a compressed coil, but giving it a second or two after the glow dies after pulsing, before compressing it, also gives very uniform spacing.

Andria

Glad you found a method that works for you.
 

morningdew

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Latest attempt getting there...took the somewhat misaligned coil off and repaired it...rewicked and vaping as well as a nautilus.

Pretty sure I still overwinter I t but not by as much as previously.

Not sure about cotton bacon v2 though as wicking material...15 draws in and I am still tasting cotton...perhaps because wicking is too tight?

Funny people said the actual coiling is the easiest...I diagree...far tougher than either getting the legs under the screw or wicking.

Just want to vape tonight so will roll with current build and redo tomorrow with a bit less cotton, all good practice.
 

AndriaD

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Latest attempt getting there...took the somewhat misaligned coil off and repaired it...rewicked and vaping as well as a Nautilus.

Pretty sure I still overwinter I t but not by as much as previously.

Not sure about cotton bacon v2 though as wicking material...15 draws in and I am still tasting cotton...perhaps because wicking is too tight?

Funny people said the actual coiling is the easiest...I diagree...far tougher than either getting the legs under the screw or wicking.

Just want to vape tonight so will roll with current build and redo tomorrow with a bit less cotton, all good practice.

Yes; if you have just slightly too much wick, it might wick the liquid ok but never really "break-in", so that you taste the juice instead of the cotton. I found getting the right amount of wicking the most challenging aspect, and still sometimes have to do it 2 or 3 times to get it right. The japanese organic cotton pads are about the easiest means I've found; some like the Ko Gen Doh, but I prefer the Shiseido, which is also a little cheaper than the KGD.

Andria
 
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Kevin littell

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I did that at first, but I later found it wasn't really necessary -- maybe just because I got better at the initial wrap being more uniform; at first I was afraid I would overlap the wraps, so I tended to wrap them too far apart. I've found that doing the same procedure as a compressed coil, but giving it a second or two after the glow dies after pulsing, before compressing it, also gives very uniform spacing.

Andria

This.


For the first month I built new coil every time too play with the ohms and practice. Now adays I just put 5 too 7 wraps (depending on the mood) around whatever s handy wide, squash it towards the handle till it will fit, peel off the right amount of cotton bacon and wick it up. Then paste it too the deck and put the chimney on.


Its all practice and trial and error. I now wrap 6/7 for 1.6 ohms with 28 ga but have unused 26 30 and 32 gauge wire gathering dust from the early days experiments.

Trial and error.
 
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Two_Bears

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Latest attempt getting there...took the somewhat misaligned coil off and repaired it...rewicked and vaping as well as a Nautilus.

Pretty sure I still overwinter I t but not by as much as previously.

Not sure about cotton bacon v2 though as wicking material...15 draws in and I am still tasting cotton...perhaps because wicking is too tight?

Funny people said the actual coiling is the easiest...I diagree...far tougher than either getting the legs under the screw or wicking.

Just want to vape tonight so will roll with current build and redo tomorrow with a bit less cotton, all good practice.

Get a little practice and it will be better than a Nautilus.

Coiling is the easy part. Trapping leads under screw heads is not a problem for people with two good hands. It is a problem for me because Duprodens Contracture curled up three fingers on my left hand. So trapping leads is a real PITA for me.

The hard part is wicking. The cotton too loose causes pops spits and leaks. Too tight and get dry hits.

I find that it works well with the cotton tight but still able to slide in the coil without damaging the coil. When the cotton expands due to capillary action the wick fits perfectly.
 
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AndriaD

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This.


For the first month I built new coil every time too play with the ohms and practice. Now adays I just put 5 too 7 wraps (depending on the mood) around whatever s handy wide, squash it towards the handle till it will fit, peel off the right amount of cotton bacon and wick it up. Then paste it too the deck and put the chimney on.


Its all practice and trial and error. I now wrap 6/7 for 1.6 ohms with 28 ga but have unused 26 30 and 32 gauge wire gathering dust from the early days experiments.

Trial and error.

Yeah I've got 28, 30, and 32ga gathering dust, since I discovered the build I like best -- 29ga, 7 wraps around 3/32 -- about 1.7Ω. Sometimes I still experiment with the 28ga, about 6 wraps, usually about 1.4-1.5Ω... but the flavor just isn't as good.

Andria
 
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Two_Bears

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Yeah I've got 28, 30, and 32ga gathering dust, since I discovered the build I like best -- 29ga, 7 wraps around 3/32 -- about 1.7Ω. Sometimes I still experiment with the 28ga, about 6 wraps, usually about 1.4-1.5Ω... but the flavor just isn't as good.

Andria

Try 26 gauge and build between .8 and 1 ohm. That is where I like it.
 

AndriaD

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Try 26 gauge and build between .8 and 1 ohm. That is where I like it.

Would take a lot more than 9w to fire that up fast enough, and then with enough power, it would be wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too hot, and make wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too much vapor.

Andria
 
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Two_Bears

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Would take a lot more than 9w to fire that up fast enough, and then with enough power, it would be wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too hot, and make wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too much vapor.

Andria

Lot of vapor yes. Too hot. In all honesty the HEAT of the vapor is not that bad. Reminds me of the vapor of my old Evod clearomiser with evod battery.

I usually vape it at 12.5 or less. Right now vaping at 11.2

The vapor actually feels cool on my face.

I love seeing reactions. Let me tell you about a friend. He was using an Aspire tank of some stripe on a Coolfire4, and it was pegged at 40 watts, and my clouds with Silverplay Nano was putting his gear under the table. He asked the build and power I was on. His eyes just about fell out of his head when he saw my resistance was .94 ohms and using 12.0 watts.
 
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AndriaD

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Lot of vapor yes. Too hot. In all honesty the HEAT of the vapor is not that bad. Reminds me of the vapor of my old Evod clearomiser with evod battery.

I usually vape it at 12.5 or less. Right now vaping at 11.2

The vapor actually feels cool on my face.

I love seeing reactions. Let me tell you about a friend. He was using an Aspire tank of some stripe on a Coolfire4, and it was pegged at 40 watts, and my clouds with Silverplay Nano was putting his gear under the table. He asked the build and power I was on. His eyes just about fell out of his head when he saw my resistance was .94 ohms and using 12.0 watts.

That kind of vapor is why I'm a tootle puffer -- just too much vapor for an asthmatic's lungs (or my husband's tolerance!). If it's too hot, it actually plays hell with my lips, but mostly it just makes too much vapor.

Andria
 

Two_Bears

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That kind of vapor is why I'm a tootle puffer -- just too much vapor for an asthmatic's lungs (or my husband's tolerance!). If it's too hot, it actually plays hell with my lips, but mostly it just makes too much vapor.

Andria

I have seasonal asthma and every winter I have to get antibiotics go prevent bronchitis.

Don't have any problems. I can have a hacking cough. The first two of these Vapes I couvh but after that I can vape no issues. But I am vaping 1 mg nic. In another two weeks will be 0.
 

morningdew

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Get a little practice and it will be better than a Nautilus.

Coiling is the easy part. Trapping leads under screw heads is not a problem for people with two good hands. It is a problem for me because Duprodens Contracture curled up three fingers on my left hand. So trapping leads is a real PITA for me.

The hard part is wicking. The cotton too loose causes pops spits and leaks. Too tight and get dry hits.

I find that it works well with the cotton tight but still able to slide in the coil without damaging the coil. When the cotton expands due to capillary action the wick fits perfectly.

This...Wicking is correct when tight but can slide without damaging coil...exactly the conclusion I was reaching...thanks for confirming it helps hugely.
 

morningdew

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Quick note to thank all for joining and commenting on the thread, it is a great help and very supportive. I always said I would never rebuild for two reasons a. I just want to get on with vaping and b. I actually thought it would be too difficult.

Right now I think it can get easy after around 10 attempts and it actually won't take any longer than rolling my own smoke. And additionally I am enjoying the experimentation, science and art of it all.

You are a great bunch.

Peace.
 
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Two_Bears

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This...Wicking is correct when tight but can slide without damaging coil...exactly the conclusion I was reaching...thanks for confirming it helps hugely.

Glad to help.

About the following post. Building is NOT that hard and building to the level where you get the vape you want is magical.

Besides if the wick is fouled pull the wick out, dry burn the Kanthal and slude a new wick in and you are off and running in two minutes.
 
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morningdew

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Getting there...swapped out the prebuilt coil I had somewhat mangled...easily fitted a replacement...did the s shape stick to sides with juice as glue type wicking...was ok...added couple of other short wicks from bottom of s on either side and rested on top of coil...really improved things and started to see what this thing can do.

Watched a you tube video last night, really clever and easy wicking:



Going to give this a go later...optimistic.
 

morningdew

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So tried the build in video above...too tight...too much cotton...but maybe I had the cotton get too compressed whilst poking down into place. Guy in video gets some serious clouds, for sure I did something wrong.

Just dry burned and rewicked for a new juice...interestingly I went for pasting down into inside deck walls - just touching the deck above juice channel...made my wick way shorter than the pull wick up through chimney and then snip slowly above top of chimney cylinder.

Vaping much better, though I suspect despite my wick length being better, I have not quite got a thick enough piece of cellucotton. Seems cellucotton does the opposite of cotton, once wet shrinking inside coil rather than expanding. Getting a few pops but no gurgle or leaking.

Prior all builds felt tight, sometimes like vaping a tampon, some gurgling, weirdly improving as tank started to get close too running dry. Perhaps more downward pressure forcing final half ml of juice into my over wicking.

So getting there...seems to be a really fine line with how much wick to use in these kayfuns...

This tankful is the first time I am starting to think it maybe better than the nautilus.

Maybe my wicking but the cotton bacon v2 had a really cottony taste, though of course over wicking would cause this?
 

Two_Bears

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So tried the build in video above...too tight...too much cotton...but
.

Try cotton as tight as you can get it but still able to slide in the coil without dsnahi the coil. If it won't vslide grab both sides of the coil and pull a few cotton fibers out of the wick. When the wick is tight and able to slide inside the coil the wick is perfect. Next press the tails to the juice wells. Cut the tails so the end on the top of the juice wells. Fluff the tails. Juice the wick assemble the RTA and fill.


Whilst poking down into place. Guy in video gets some serious clouds, for sure I did something wrong.

Clouds are irrelevant. You don't know the VG/PG ratio he was using. And you don't know what wattage he was using.

I was at the Ronstadt bus station waiting for the bus. I was vaping on my Goblin Mini and blowing clouds. Another guy was vaping, he finally came over and asked what mg voltage was. I pulsed the Fire button so my resistance and wattage showed. He had a Coolfire4 pegged at 40 watts. I was vaping at 12.5 watts.

My clouds was making his clouds look lame whike he was using 3 times as much power than I was. But I was vaping 70% VG/30% PG. Be was vaping 50/50 ejuice.

Seems cellucotton does the opposite of cotton, once wet shrinking inside coil rather than expanding. Getting a few pops but no gurgle or leaking.

you are using Rayon instead of cotton. I'm new to Rayon so can't really help.

Reading the Rayon thread say the wick needs to be so tight the Rayon squeaks, then trim The tails to 50% as thick as it is inside the coil.

This tankful is the first time I am starting to think it maybe better than the nautilus.

RTAs blow the doors off any tank that uses pre made coils.

Several RTAs have flavor just as good as RBAs. In my opinion only one RBA beats the Goblin Mini in flavor. That is the Darang.
 

morningdew

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Two Bears - i have some japanese organic cotton, cellucotton (rayon), ekowool & cotton bacon v2.

Bought the organic japanese from a vape shop, never knew it was there, while in town earlier.

Rewicked with the organic japanese cotton on return (needed reqicking as I can get a tank in the kfl at best with nets).

Best yet...think to do with my improved thickness of wick. 75/25 pg/vg for a change but it's now vaping better than the nautilus.

I found the cotton bacon v2 had a real taste to it - think tampons not that I've ever eaten or tasted one, however all my builds were too tightly packed - cotton pressed rather than fluffed, and probably too much wick as well.

With the Rayon in the Kayfun light where would you say the tails start? At edge of coil or where they turn downwards or where they touch the deck. Fom my reading it's where they touch the deck which on the KFL would mean the trimmed down to 50% is minimal if at all...understood that it needs to be real tight in the coil as it contracts once juiced up.

The method you suggest (thread wick, fold down wick till touches deck, cut in situ and add juice etc) is one that's working well for me. It's probable the easiest / fail safe, guaranteeing wicks are not too long, which I find is easy to do on the kayfun, as they need to be really shorts tails/wicks.

My current wicking is via the video I showed. Providing the wick is well fluffed and delicately poked down, after fitting the chimney it seems, to work well.

Still on my first prebuilt coil, have dry burned it a fair few times and reset it with the tweezers. Great for nets as I can just rewick and clean up once it gets funky at around 2ml vaped.

Getting the hang of this and really enjoy it. Still to try the wicking and will dig out suitable screws tomorrow and see if I can build a few coils to play with. And the authentic Freakshow & Snapdragon clone (stainless steel version which is rated as good as 1:1) are on the way from slowttech.
 

Two_Bears

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Two Bears - i have some japanese organic cotton, cellucotton (rayon), ekowool & cotton bacon v2.

Bought the organic japanese from a vape shop, never knew it was there, while in town earlier.

Rewicked with the organic japanese cotton on return (needed reqicking as I can get a tank in the kfl at best with nets).

Best yet...think to do with my improved thickness of wick. 75/25 pg/vg for a change but it's now vaping better than the nautilus.

I found the cotton bacon v2 had a real taste to it - think tampons not that I've ever eaten or tasted one, however all my builds were too tightly packed - cotton pressed rather than fluffed, and probably too much wick as well.

With the Rayon in the Kayfun light where would you say the tails start? At edge of coil or where they turn downwards or where they touch the deck. Fom my reading it's where they touch the deck which on the KFL would mean the trimmed down to 50% is minimal if at all...understood that it needs to be real tight in the coil as it contracts once juiced up.

The method you suggest (thread wick, fold down wick till touches deck, cut in situ and add juice etc) is one that's working well for me. It's probable the easiest / fail safe, guaranteeing wicks are not too long, which I find is easy to do on the kayfun, as they need to be really shorts tails/wicks.

My current wicking is via the video I showed. Providing the wick is well fluffed and delicately poked down, after fitting the chimney it seems, to work well.

Still on my first prebuilt coil, have dry burned it a fair few times and reset it with the tweezers. Great for nets as I can just rewick and clean up once it gets funky at around 2ml vaped.

Getting the hang of this and really enjoy it. Still to try the wicking and will dig out suitable screws tomorrow and see if I can build a few coils to play with. And the authentic Freakshow & Snapdragon clone (stainless steel version which is rated as good as 1:1) are on the way from slowttech.

The way I described cutting the tails is what worked best for me.

Reducing the tails with Rayon I would start thinning the Rayon tails about 2-3 mm past the coil.

The Kayfun uses such a small bowtie of a wuck you have to start close to the coil.
You should be able to vape a lot more than 2ml before re wicking the Kayfun. I usually vaped 6-10 mk before re wicking.
 
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