Kayfun Prime (MTL they said)

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k2zs

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Mar 23, 2014
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Like @vapdivrr, I'd definitely say o-rings. I had the same problem with a K5. It took me ages to sort out and I'm a bit embarrassed to admit what the fix was, but making sure I lubed the o-rings on the base every time I rewicked has transformed a useless chunk of metal into a beautifully vapable tank.
I can see where O-Rings could cause flooding but not poor juice flow but thanks...

I've since sorted out the issue. After watching Phil's video and a few others, I started trimming down my wick tails. It seems that I was tucking in too much cotton. The other thing I did was switch to wattage mode instead of temp mode. In temp mode the resistance just wasn't stable and I found the atty itself got very hot. Now in wattage mode, the atty stays cool and with the reduced cotton I have no wicking issues what so ever.

Another thing I did was to switch to the glass tank instead of the steel one so that I can monitor my juice levels. Once I get used to how much juice it uses I may switch back to the steel tank because my work day can be a little rough.

All in all, it's now the perfect vape that hasn't given me any troubles at all...
 

vapdivrr

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I can see where O-Rings could cause flooding but not poor juice flow but thanks...

I've since sorted out the issue. After watching Phil's video and a few others, I started trimming down my wick tails. It seems that I was tucking in too much cotton. The other thing I did was switch to wattage mode instead of temp mode. In temp mode the resistance just wasn't stable and I found the atty itself got very hot. Now in wattage mode, the atty stays cool and with the reduced cotton I have no wicking issues what so ever.

Another thing I did was to switch to the glass tank instead of the steel one so that I can monitor my juice levels. Once I get used to how much juice it uses I may switch back to the steel tank because my work day can be a little rough.

All in all, it's now the perfect vape that hasn't given me any troubles at all...
Your original issue, nine times out of ten is a wicking issue of some sort, but I just felt if you totally went through all wicking possibilities, as you stated, that it must be something else...I did post a video in this thread and do show the importance of trimming tails. Those wick channel ledges are small and with most trying bigger and bigger coil ID's, I feel trimming tails is important. Now obviously if you trim too much, you get a little flood gurgling.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

Chapel76

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Jul 12, 2013
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Malaysia
I have not posted for quite some time but just wanted to chime in with my findings on the prime.

Was vaping the v5 for the longest time, 1.2 ohms kanthal on mostly 70/30 juices and having the best flavour out of the juices. Now with the prime i tried the same setup and getting the same flavour performance if not slightly better. However i have recently went tc, 28g 316ss at 0.6 ohm. It is vaping like a champ, slightly less throat hit but still an enjoyable vape.
 

G-Fog

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Jul 5, 2016
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I recently bought a Kayfun Prime and am very happy and impressed with this tank, so much so that I bought a second one, as you do ;).
I do however have a question that, thus far, I have not seen raised/mentioned.
If I put either of the KP's on my ohm reader there is no reading, I do however get a reading on all of my mod's from Drag to Pico, and all in between.
For reference I am using 28g Kanthal 9 wraps on a 2.5mm rod coming in at around 1.8ohm.
I also tried 316L and had the same experience.
Every other RTA RDA RDTA etc that I have reads fine on the ohm reader, so probably not that.
Could it be to do with the length of the 510 pin on the KP maybe?
Advice and or comments would be appreciated.
 
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