Kayfun Prime (MTL they said)

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Hawise

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I got mine yesterday and maybe I got a dud but I'm not all that impressed. Everything is really thin giving it a cheap feel. It feels like what I would expect a clone to feel like. I'm not a fan of the glass either. It's very thin and the edges appear to be raw. Same with the extension glass. Temp control is a giant pain and been through 5 26awg 316L builds and haven't had any luck at all with a consistent vape in temp control. Seems even worse than the v4 in temp control.

This is very interesting exp. I forgot that right now is TC era. Anyone here try TC on kayfun Prime? Pls share your thought.

I'm not having any trouble with TC. Or at least the problem I did have was resolved by opening the juice flow :blush:.

I'm using a 30 ga 316l 2.5 ID coil. I have an identical coil in my K5 and both are happily maintaining their temperature, though I've set the Prime 5 C higher than the K5.

@mrcrunch08, it doesn't strike me as thin or cheap. The metal's much like the K5. I did notice the raw edges of the glass, though.
 

mrcrunch08

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I'm not having any trouble with TC. Or at least the problem I did have was resolved by opening the juice flow :blush:.

I'm using a 30 ga 316l 2.5 ID coil. I have an identical coil in my K5 and both are happily maintaining their temperature, though I've set the Prime 5 C higher than the K5.

@mrcrunch08, it doesn't strike me as thin or cheap. The metal's much like the K5. I did notice the raw edges of the glass, though.
I have a feeling not owning the v5 is why I have a lot of the feelings I do. The v4 was the last kayfun I purchased due to the way airflow was going. It just doesn't have that substantial feel that the older kayfuns have. In some parts not even what the berserker has. It is well machined and everything in the base is impressive. The engravings/etchings aren't that great and I don't even know what the engraving is supposed to be on my Sochi one.

What is the resistance of your coil? With that awg I have to imagine it is a higher resistance than mine and may help compensate for the variances. I will have to try the 30awg and see if that improves things for me. Maybe I should pull the 510 pin out as well and give that a better cleaning. It's just reminding me or temp control with the v4 the way I currently have it.

Edit:
Forgot to ask if the resistance and temp control remains solid after changing the airflow size? Even when I get it to a point where it is stable enough to leave it in tc it all breaks the second I change the airflow. That is where I am having the biggest issue.
 
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VictorC

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Temp control is a giant pain and been through 5 26awg 316L builds and haven't had any luck at all with a consistent vape in temp control. Seems even worse than the v4 in temp control.

Try flat head screws, they secure wire much better than those with philips heads. I am using 28 GA SS316L (9 wraps, 2.5 ID, 0.9 ohm) in TC mode with no issues. Great vape.
eeWTCK1.jpg
 
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Hawise

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What is the resistance of your coil? With that awg I have to imagine it is a higher resistance than mine and may help compensate for the variances. I will have to try the 30awg and see if that improves things for me. Maybe I should pull the 510 pin out as well and give that a better cleaning. It's just reminding me or temp control with the v4 the way I currently have it.

It's about 1 ohm. Now that you mention the 510, I just remembered that I had to tighten the screw there to get a reliable resistance reading.
 
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mrcrunch08

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It's about 1 ohm. Now that you mention the 510, I just remembered that I had to tighten the screw there to get a reliable resistance reading.
Glad you said that. I have had to tighten it a few times. Idk if it is from the afc or putting it on and off mods but I have had that come loose. I will definitely give it a good cleaning and crank it down in there to see if that helps. I'm going to try a thinner wire as well. That may well be the key and I do love the flavor.IMG_20170930_162531.jpg This is my current build. Tried to stuff as much cotton as I could so I could leave the juice control wide open hoping to help tc.
 
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Hawise

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Glad you said that. I have had to tighten it a few times. Idk if it is from the afc or putting it on and off mods but I have had that come loose. I will definitely give it a good cleaning and crank it down in there to see if that helps. I'm going to try a thinner wire as well. That may well be the key and I do love the flavor.View attachment 689545 This is my current build. Tried to stuff as much cotton as I could so I could leave the juice control wide open hoping to help tc.

Sounds like you've got a plan. Your coil looks good to me.

What's your resistance? Svoemesto says the Prime doesn't work well below 0.5, and I thought with 26 awg you might be in that range.

In any case, good luck with the thinner wire. I hope it works out.
 

mrcrunch08

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Sounds like you've got a plan. Your coil looks good to me.

What's your resistance? Svoemesto says the Prime doesn't work well below 0.5, and I thought with 26 awg you might be in that range.

In any case, good luck with the thinner wire. I hope it works out.
Thanks, I'm hoping I have luck with it as well. My resistance is fluctuating around 0.4-0.5. I haven't had a chance to mess with it today but pulling it apart last night I noticed some burrs on the inner lip of the 510 that may have been contacting the center pin. I sanded them down and still have everything soaking till I get home. They were very small so doubtful they caused issue but it's something while I wait on more wire.
 
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k2zs

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Try flat head screws, they secure wire much better than those with philips heads. I am using 28 GA SS316L (9 wraps, 2.5 ID, 0.9 ohm) in TC mode with no issues. Great vape.
eeWTCK1.jpg
Thank you, that did the trick...

I thought it was me. I put a 2.5id SS316 coil in mine and all it did was burn cotton every time. I thought it was the VT75 nano that I bought to use with the Prime but the same thing happened on my DNA200. I would fire the mod at 400F and it would jump to OFF and burn the cotton every time.
I did a complete tear down and clean and replaced the philips head screws with flat heads, made a new coil with 2 more wraps, and now it's working perfectly!

Thanks @VictorC
 

rifky

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Thank you, that did the trick...

I thought it was me. I put a 2.5id SS316 coil in mine and all it did was burn cotton every time. I thought it was the VT75 nano that I bought to use with the Prime but the same thing happened on my DNA200. I would fire the mod at 400F and it would jump to OFF and burn the cotton every time.
I did a complete tear down and clean and replaced the philips head screws with flat heads, made a new coil with 2 more wraps, and now it's working perfectly!

Thanks @VictorC
So, kayfun prime work perfectly in TC I assume? No jumping ohm and cotton burn?
 

k2zs

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So, kayfun prime work perfectly in TC I assume? No jumping ohm and cotton burn?
Yeah, it's working fine for me now. I really like this version of Kayfun. I have a KF5 but for me, the 5 was just too big to take out and about. This Prime is the perfect size for me. I have it on the VT75 Nano and it's a nice, small pocketable size. Perfect for how I vape :)
 

mrcrunch08

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Maybe mine is a dud then. I just put everything back together except I put the flat head screws in and everything is exactly the same. I can get it to function in tc as long as I don't touch it or chain vape. Even then I am having to adjust the temp up or down by 30f. If I vape till the tank gets warm tc breaks when it cools and tc stops working every time I fill. I'm still using 26awg so that should be considered. Tc is just super fiddly for me still. Not sure if anyone is interested but I have some pics I found interesting of the decks/chimney of the prime and berserker in short mode.
 

Hawise

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Maybe mine is a dud then. I just put everything back together except I put the flat head screws in and everything is exactly the same. I can get it to function in tc as long as I don't touch it or chain vape. Even then I am having to adjust the temp up or down by 30f. If I vape till the tank gets warm tc breaks when it cools and tc stops working every time I fill. I'm still using 26awg so that should be considered. Tc is just super fiddly for me still. Not sure if anyone is interested but I have some pics I found interesting of the decks/chimney of the prime and berserker in short mode.

That sounds a bit like a problem I was having with another tank (new K5 clone) last week. When I started vaping, I'd have to turn the temp way up to get any sort of vape from it, and I'd be adjusting the temp every couple of vapes. Once it got warmed up it would start overheating - the vape was very hot but the mod claimed it wasn't anywhere near the set temp so TC never kicked in. I'd turn it way down, and it would vape fairly well as long as I kept chain vaping. Then I'd set it down for a bit only to come back and find I had to start the process all over again.

It turned out to be a connection issue - the 510 screw wasn't quite tight enough. It moved maybe a mm or so when I tightened it, but it's been working perfectly ever since.

As you've checked your connection, I really can't think of anything else to suggest. Maybe you could try replacing the screw in the 510 connection in case there's something wonky going on with it. Other than that, it might still be worth trying with thinner wire/resistance over 0.5. If that doesn't work, I'd vote for dud. Can you exchange it?
 
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mrcrunch08

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That sounds a bit like a problem I was having with another tank (new K5 clone) last week. When I started vaping, I'd have to turn the temp way up to get any sort of vape from it, and I'd be adjusting the temp every couple of vapes. Once it got warmed up it would start overheating - the vape was very hot but the mod claimed it wasn't anywhere near the set temp so TC never kicked in. I'd turn it way down, and it would vape fairly well as long as I kept chain vaping. Then I'd set it down for a bit only to come back and find I had to start the process all over again.

It turned out to be a connection issue - the 510 screw wasn't quite tight enough. It moved maybe a mm or so when I tightened it, but it's been working perfectly ever since.

As you've checked your connection, I really can't think of anything else to suggest. Maybe you could try replacing the screw in the 510 connection in case there's something wonky going on with it. Other than that, it might still be worth trying with thinner wire/resistance over 0.5. If that doesn't work, I'd vote for dud. Can you exchange it?
I definitely cranked that 510 pin down. I'm going to try thinner wire. I ordered some 30&28awg so have to wait on that. I do have some 28ti I may try in the meantime. I had to use a 30awg to get my rose working somewhat consistent as well so hopefully that will be what helps.
 
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vapdivrr

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Well its been a few days and am totally loving the prime! Definitely a little tighter AF then the km3 but it's still awesome and although I'm mainly a mtl vapor, every once in a while I do take some dl inhales and can still do that with the prime...I find the draw similiar to the k5 with reducer mid way or close to reducer wide open....flavor seems better then k5 and same as the km3. It's been years since I vaped my kfl's, so hard to compare, but I'm pretty sure that somewhere in the prime settings, it equal in AF to the kfl. Imo if you vape a kfl, this is definitely better because of the top fill, and being able to have more options when it comes to wattages. Love the size and quality and have heard issues about it being of clone quality? Not sure about that, because it's a solid, fairly heavy little sucker and machining is just as good as any kayfun ever made imo. Maybe the glass is thinner then the other kayfuns, but not by much and compared to all my other hi end rtas, right up there with the best of them. I don't do TC, but in wattage mode it's been solid with 26g at .7 ohms and imo, wouldn't go much lower in resistance then that.. maybe .5 , but it's a mtl rta, not a dtl rda, so not sure if there is any benefits to a lower resistance. Kayfuns , maybe except the k5, just perform better imo at resistances from .7 to 1.3 ish range and gauges no thicker then 26 , with 28g being probably most common....the km3 has been my fav kayfun, but I find myself grabbing this more often since getting it and will be definitely buying another or two

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vapdivrr

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Glad you said that. I have had to tighten it a few times. Idk if it is from the afc or putting it on and off mods but I have had that come loose. I will definitely give it a good cleaning and crank it down in there to see if that helps. I'm going to try a thinner wire as well. That may well be the key and I do love the flavor.View attachment 689545 This is my current build. Tried to stuff as much cotton as I could so I could leave the juice control wide open hoping to help tc.
Coil looks good but your wick is suffering on one side...see how much darker it is on one side? That's usually caused by the trail side of the wick while pulling it thru coil. This trail side of the wick is usually much more dense then the opposite end and is probably not flowing juice as good as the other side... it also is more dense because it's natural to grab the thinnest side of the cotton when threading, so it's usually thicker on this trail side in 2 ways...after threading wick thru coil, I find myself trimming this thicker side of the wick to the same density as the opposite end, in order to get both tails equal and it does make a difference in flavor....although you do want a good amount down in channels, I definitely wouldn't try to stuff as much as possible, as this could also be causing that dark tail (because you may have to much stuffed in that channel ) in my km3 and k5, (besides density of tails) I find tail lenght very important as well and for me, with a coil height at 1.6mm off the deck, cutting the dry tails right at the black oring the perfect lenght.

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